Never ending brake trouble

[SHOZ123]

I just replaced my drivers side rear caliper today. Bought a semi-loaded one from AZ for $29 plus a $70 core charge. This had the E brake spring and two rubber pin boots, no pins or pads.

I would suggest that you have the engine running when bleeding the brakes. The power boost makes things a LOT easier jacked up wheel or not.

 

[N.Pinto]

The e-brake cables route from the front through a retaining hole on the caliper, held in place with a clip. This would make the cable move with the suspension. I don't think you could route this incorrectly and still have functioning e-brakes. (I could be mistaken, haven't tried this)

The hoses I used were aftermarket (Raybestos if I remeber correctly) Haven't had any problems in about a year with these. Both sides were bad on my SHO, the passenger side much worse however.

Also just so there is no misconceptions about my earlier post about the piston returning "rather easily". I was making this statement in comparison to how difficult it was for me with the bad hoses. As with any caliper it does still require some pressure/force to return the piston. However it is now posible for me return the piston without having to remover the caliper from the car or have to open the bleeder. (This is/was with the proper tool)

 

[JohnW63]

Actually NPinto, I was wondering about the routing of the cables before the calipers. Over the lower arm or under? Accrossed the arms to a small bracket,in the center ( mine is broken from somebody putting the jack in the wrong place ) to the passenger side, then....


JohnW