Need On-line Help ASAP - Cam Seal Replacement

[Marccus]

I'm trying to remove the cam seal closest to the firewall.

Firstly, I had to remove more parts to get to the seal than the shop manual and instructions from others on this board indicated. I couldn't get the upper timing belt cover off. The water pump belt appears in the way. although there were no instructions to remove this.

I'm finally at the seal, but I had to remove the front aluminum piece that the cam shaft sensor is attached to to get easier access to it. I also loosened the bolts on the part "E1" which is bolted on top of the cylinder head to "relax" the circular annulus the seal resides in.

I can't remove the seal. I didn't realize the seal is mostly metal with a rubber covering. The "seal remover" tool by Ford (which I bought) is as uselful as "**** on a bull", a "steel toilet in the North Pole", or a "screen door in a submarine" .... well you get the picture.

Are there any alternatives to remove the seal without drilling a hole and screwing in a machine screw?

Can I just keep "digging" at the metal to make a hole and pull it out with a small hook tool?

I just hpe I am digging at the seal and not the end face of the piece E1 on which the seal rests against! At one point, I panicked and thought the latter, not knowing the seal was made of metal. Although I'm still not sure - maybe the seal disintegrated.

 

[projectSHO89]

Drill the hole and fish it out. That's how I did it. I use a sharp centerpunch to put a dimple in the seal's housing so that the drill bit doesn't walk out and dig into either the camshaft or the head.

The factory service manual for the 89 seems to assume that the engine is out of the car. Very tough to do wwith the engine installed.

I disconnected both front and rear motor mount from the subframe, then jacked up the front of the motor as high as it would go to get to the rear cam seal. Makes it way more accessible. I was also performing the front end 60K, so I also had everything else open on the front.

Removing the cam sensor, the mounting housing, and the vane are necessary. Make sure you reinstall the vane exactly as you removed it, not 180 degrees out. Whatever the bolt is on "E!", probably didn't need removing as the seal is not compressed except by pushing it in.

I posted several times about How I did this job, including http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=004146#000000

Here is Sergio's response to my inquiry back in May:

It is possible to change the cam seal behind the cam sensor without
removing the engine. You take the engine damper off, move the PS resv.
to the back to get the hoses out of the way. Remove the front and rear
motor mount nuts fron below to jack the motor up gives more room to work
at the sensor and seal. Take the cam sensor off with the aluminum
mounting piece(2, 8mm bolts), then take the metal half circle shutter
piese off the cam, 2, phillips screws. I use a short phillips bit on a
1/4" socket a rachet to turn the screws. Turn the cam so the shutter
half circle part is facing down lets you see the screws, sorta. You
don't have to remove this part but it makes it easier to get the seal
out if you so. Now comes the fun part, trying to get a 2" sheetmetal
screw into the seal to pull it out. Use a small tiny hammer to start the
screw, put a sharp point on the screw. Once the screw is in the seal use
some pliers or ***** to pull the seal out. I use a 1 and 1/8"(?) socket
to put the seal back in. Start the seal over the cam, put the socket
over the cam then with a long(2ft) screwdriver pry on the socket using
the shock tower as a pivot point. It will require prying on the socket a
couple times to get the seal in straight.

I Know it looks impossible to do at first but by jacking the motor up it
faces the seal more in the open.

Sergio

In case you don't know of him, Sergio is one of the well known SHO mechanics in Houston.

Steve

 

[Marccus]

Thanks Sergio. I've removed everything you stated, but don't have the ability to remove the motor mounts and jack the engine up to get better access. I'll have to try to get at the seal with the limited access and try to remove it.

This may be a long day. I have a Dremel tool with the flexible shaft extension and I'll see if can make room to be able to drill a hole.

But first, before I start my cussing ...

"In the name of the Father, the Son, and of the ..." Amen.

 

[projectSHO89]

but don't have the ability to remove the motor mounts and jack the engine up to get better access

All it takes is removing a couple nuts (probably 18 or 19 mm), then using a floor jack with a 2 X 4 piece of wood under the oil pan. The mounts never get removed, you just disconnect the bottom of them from the sub-frame. Then you can actually replace the seals before you bugger something important up.

Steve

 

[Marccus]

Didn't read your messsage in time. But I was able to replace the seal and put everything back together. I used a 1mm drill bit and turned it by hand and eventually broke through. Then I used the Ford tool to remove the seal. Once there is a hole in the seal, the Ford tool works quite well.

But, now I can't start the car. Car keeps cranking and doesn't turn over. I don't hear the fuel pump come on with that whirr of a sound that lasts about 5 seconds. I gather that's the fuel rails coming up to pressure?

I can't seem to notice anything I didn't reconnect.

Can you advise?

P.S. Ground on intake manifold at firewall is connected.