St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
False advertisement by the seller. Yay!
Sorry Gary.
Sorry Gary.
Need info on Gary Morrell Coilovers
- Thread starter St Louis SHO
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Shoaz
Studly dood
Bummer. Hope you can send 'em back or something.
Edit: FWIW, IIRC Lance Cheney had figured out how to modify the IPT hardware so that it worked right and would hold up. You might search around here for those discussions (I think there was some discussion here) and see if you think that's worthwhile.
Edit: FWIW, IIRC Lance Cheney had figured out how to modify the IPT hardware so that it worked right and would hold up. You might search around here for those discussions (I think there was some discussion here) and see if you think that's worthwhile.
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gmorrell
Never been a noob...
Not a problem.
Eh... Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
I did find my instructions, or at least enough of the pieces-parts to reassemble the document. Still want a copy?
gmorrell
Never been a noob...
Here's a few more pics of my SHO coil overs.
This one shows the complete front coil over assemblies on the left, and the incomplete rear assemblies that used a modified rear upper mount. I ended up not liking the modified OEM upper mount because it limited bump travel and forced me to use an 8" spring (too short...), so I built a few, but abandoned it. It was also expensive and hard to build.
Here's the later redesigned rear assemblies with a billet upper mount that allows using a 10" long spring, so the rear gets all the suspension travel without any danger of putting the spring in coil bind. A side benefit of adding bump travel and allowing a longer spring is that it moves the Koni adjuster upwards so it actually pokes through the top of the strut tower, no more hunting for it down inside the hole.
The strut housings were prepared by cutting off the spring perches, welding on a short tubular collar to support the threaded collars, then the housings were blasted, chem cleaned and electroless Nickel plated.
This one shows the complete front coil over assemblies on the left, and the incomplete rear assemblies that used a modified rear upper mount. I ended up not liking the modified OEM upper mount because it limited bump travel and forced me to use an 8" spring (too short...), so I built a few, but abandoned it. It was also expensive and hard to build.
Here's the later redesigned rear assemblies with a billet upper mount that allows using a 10" long spring, so the rear gets all the suspension travel without any danger of putting the spring in coil bind. A side benefit of adding bump travel and allowing a longer spring is that it moves the Koni adjuster upwards so it actually pokes through the top of the strut tower, no more hunting for it down inside the hole.
The strut housings were prepared by cutting off the spring perches, welding on a short tubular collar to support the threaded collars, then the housings were blasted, chem cleaned and electroless Nickel plated.
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
Very nice shit, Gary. This is what I thought I was buying. I knew the IPT stuff was not desireable, but I never saw a set of either in person.
K-Dawg
SHO Member
You might want to get ahold of Ian Fisher. I believe he also has some experience with getting the old IPT stuff to work right
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
Yeah, he replaced it with Gary's setup....
K-Dawg
SHO Member
Oh, I guess he fixed 'em alright.
Lance Cheney
SHO Member
The ITPs aren't *that* awful, but do need a bit of massaging to improve their robustness. The biggest problems I had were that the spherical bearings were definitely underspec'ed for this application, the misc. spacer hardware was useless, and the springs supplied with the kit were ridiculously short.
I fixed the first problem by replacing the bearings with a higher grade from Baker Precision. I also upsized them slightly, with the end result being greater than 2X the strength. They were still a lower max load than the bearings that Gary uses. I made my own spacer hardware, and got springs that were more reasonable (8' 500lb on the front, 10' 350lb on the back).
There were other miscellaneous issues: I put hardened washers under the socket-head cap screws on the front (they like to damage the mild steel plate otherwise), and the cut on the threaded collar was abysmal.
In summary, I paid too much for something I could probably put together from a Coleman catalog and a band saw and some welding. But I've been happy with the final result.
I fixed the first problem by replacing the bearings with a higher grade from Baker Precision. I also upsized them slightly, with the end result being greater than 2X the strength. They were still a lower max load than the bearings that Gary uses. I made my own spacer hardware, and got springs that were more reasonable (8' 500lb on the front, 10' 350lb on the back).
There were other miscellaneous issues: I put hardened washers under the socket-head cap screws on the front (they like to damage the mild steel plate otherwise), and the cut on the threaded collar was abysmal.
In summary, I paid too much for something I could probably put together from a Coleman catalog and a band saw and some welding. But I've been happy with the final result.
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