Need help working out my final plan.

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Freshusmc

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So far i know i want it turboed. i wanna be able to take it to the strip as well as the road track. so i want as much power as i can get without it being out of control on the track. My question are how much power is that? would all is out there for building a turbo motor? How do i have to do to the engine to where i wont have to worry about blowing the thing through the hood?
 

LOUDSHO92

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A stock motor can easily handle 8-9pis and some have gone to 12psi maybe even more. Low compression pistons help. Fuel injectors, fuel pump and regulator are needed. Bigger MAF as well.
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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rofl what aftermarket?

there are no kits for these cars. its all DIY. do a few searches in the FI section and you will find what you need.

-Mitch
 

AREA 91

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So far i know i want it turboed. i wanna be able to take it to the strip as well as the road track. so i want as much power as i can get without it being out of control on the track. My question are how much power is that? would all is out there for building a turbo motor? How do i have to do to the engine to where i wont have to worry about blowing the thing through the hood?

So far, there is no "limit" when it comes to the engine, if properly built. Now the tranny is something else.

I hope you have a thick wallet, cause your gonna need it.;)
 

Freshusmc

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so there is no one that builds trannys? what about the bottom end? i have found pistons but no rods or crank? or are they strong enough and i just need new ones to make sure?
 

zblackbeast

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crank and rods are forged from the factory. you should have no problem there. as for the tranny, you can get a torque biasing diff. or weld the diff pins. that is a start. now depending on how much power you actually make, you run into the problem of shredding gears!!
 

Freshusmc

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oh yeah are oem replacements also forged or do i need to order them from a certain place? i mean if i feel they need to be replaced when time comes to build the motor. and me having an mtx should i build anoth 3.2L or just get a 3.0L and bore it so i dont have to worry about all the conversion stuff?
 

yamahaSHO

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At this point, you're asking pretty basic SHO information. Of course you're not expected to know it right away, however, it has been hashed many times and can be found using the search icon.

Also, I don't know what you're referring to in the post above (transmission)?
 

zblackbeast

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The rods and crank on the 3.2 i believe are identical.. Either that or i believe the rods are slightly stronger. Depending on your budget you can either rebuild a 3.2 or bore a 3.0.. I, personally, would like to get a 3.0 and bore it out to a 3.2 because if i get it machined, i want to make sure the rings set nicely to the block after getting honed. As far as strength, the 3.0 rods and crank are plenty strong enough to handle a lot of power. i know there are a few people on there making well over 400 WHP on 3.0 rod and crank.. If you do a 3.2 swap, you basically have to use EVERYTHING from the 3.0 other than the short block (block, pistons, rods and crank). But if you bore a 3.0 out, your going to have the same thing.

What exactly are your plans for a rebuild. Like i said, if you want to spend the coin, i would bore out a 3.0 and get all the machine work done to the 3.0.. it should save you a lot of time and frustration in the sense you don't have to keep track of which parts you need to swap over.. If you keep the 3.0 all you have to do is tear down, get machined, rebuild..
 

yamahaSHO

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The rods and wrist pins on the 3.2L are thicker/beefier. For all intents purposes, the crank is the same.

I stuck with my 3L rods as I already had them and I was looking to keep the rotating assembly as light as possible. I did have the rods flash-ground, resized, shot peened and new bushing pressed in/fitted. I did not want to go any bigger than the 3.2L bore as I didn't want to set myself up for over-heating issue with a thin cylinder wall. Boring out a 3L to a 3.2L also gave me a chance to make sure the bores are straight and still maintain the clearance needed. It is possible with a hone and getting stock sized pistons (for stock bore of starting block) will be fine as forged pistons expand more.
 

Freshusmc

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At this point, you're asking pretty basic SHO information. Of course you're not expected to know it right away, however, it has been hashed many times and can be found using the search icon.

Also, I don't know what you're referring to in the post above (transmission)?

ok i understand i could find this stuff else where but we were already on the topic. thanks though ill keep that in mind next time. and by the tranny question i mean how much power can they hold before u start having to replace them alot?
 

SHOspazz92

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300 FWHP in a stock weight SHO in my opinion is perfect.

If you can hook up, Your an easy mid 13 second car. If you have a Quaife and sticky rubber you are not going to have to many issues with traction going around corners.

If I had the money, My car would be boosted with no more then 280-300 FWHP. Considering my car weighs in at about 2750, That thing would be flying. However, With it's measly 219 FWHP (Mustang Dyno) It's still a pretty damned fast car.

-Sam
 

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