Need help !!!! Clutch replacement 93 MTX

[Anonymous]

so I decided to take on the challenge to replacing my clutch due to being on a budget and kinda stuck in the middle of the project, so right now all I've done so far is disconnected all front end suspension such as ball joints, sway bar links and steering rods also I've removed the starter and unplugged all sensors on top of the tranny as well as removing the rod shifter assembly. Now I'm reaching out to you guys on the best way from start to finish to removing and replacing the clutch, mainly I just wanna get this tranny out. My partner has no SHO knowledge what so ever so know it's making this project a lil complex and the procedure that I've gotten online is pretty vague, it's more like a list it's giving you than a actual tutorial so please help !!!

 

[Irish Pride]

Remove the exhaust Y pipe. Support the engine. Drop the subframe. Pop the axles out of the spindles and then pop out from trans. I remove the drivers strut assembly but I leave the passenger side hanging. Remove the trans mount and remove all of the sensors from the top of the trans(better clearance). A trans jack is very helpful. It can be done with a regular floor jack but I'll never do one that way again. Start removing all the trans bolts and pull the trans. When reinstalling I like to use zip ties to pull the harness up and away to keep it clear of the trans lining up.

 

[sperold]

There is a Shonut video that details the clutch change, if you need more information. And it is not too expensive.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Anonymous]

Remove the exhaust Y pipe. Support the engine. Drop the subframe. Pop the axles out of the spindles and then pop out from trans. I remove the drivers strut assembly but I leave the passenger side hanging. Remove the trans mount and remove all of the sensors from the top of the trans(better clearance). A trans jack is very helpful. It can be done with a regular floor jack but I'll never do one that way again. Start removing all the trans bolts and pull the trans. When reinstalling I like to use zip ties to pull the harness up and away to keep it clear of the trans lining up.

the passenger side axle has that long axle with that carrier bearing that's inside of a bracket bolted up under the motor but I have no clue of how to unbolt that bracket

 

[Irish Pride]

the passenger side axle has that long axle with that carrier bearing that's inside of a bracket bolted up under the motor but I have no clue of how to unbolt that bracket

2 10mm nuts on top of the bracket. You get access to them when the Y pipe is out of the way.

 

[luigisho]

There is a Shonut video that details the clutch change, if you need more information. And it is not too expensive.

This is not a bad idea if you are apprehensive with diy on this project

 

[Anonymous]

There is a Shonut video that details the clutch change, if you need more information. And it is not too expensive.

Good luck with your project.

what's the info on the video

 

[zak]

The video walks you through it step by step. See SHOnutperformance website

be certain to remove both "minishocks" that attach the shock towers to the engine and trans. I tried leaving the passenger side one attached and ended up bending it. Another gotcha is to pay attention to the ignition module on the intake, as the engine gets moved around and tilted to get the trans off it can interfere and get cracked.

Supporting the engine (I use 4x4's over the engine with 2x3s carefully propped up sideways on the inboard fenders)is important, you are going to need to be able to tilt the engine to get the trans past the drivers side upper frame rail.

If your car has seen salt be certain to have a high quality 15 mm 6 point impact socket, a breaker bar, 1/2 extensions, and a pipe or spare jack handle. This will be for removing the trans mount and some of the other stubborn fasteners

 

[sperold]

Here is some help on the engine support beam:

http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Engine_Support_Beam

Compliments of Nick Chrimes of Bayshore Performance.

The V6 site where this comes from has a lot of info on your topic.

 

[Anonymous]

The video walks you through it step by step. See SHOnutperformance website

be certain to remove both "minishocks" that attach the shock towers to the engine and trans. I tried leaving the passenger side one attached and ended up bending it. Another gotcha is to pay attention to the ignition module on the intake, as the engine gets moved around and tilted to get the trans off it can interfere and get cracked.

Supporting the engine (I use 4x4's over the engine with 2x3s carefully propped up sideways on the inboard fenders)is important, you are going to need to be able to tilt the engine to get the trans past the drivers side upper frame rail.

If your car has seen salt be certain to have a high quality 15 mm 6 point impact socket, a breaker bar, 1/2 extensions, and a pipe or spare jack handle. This will be for removing the trans mount and some of the other stubborn fasteners

does the video also has the removal or the trans/clutch as well ??? cause I only see just a install video just want to make sure before purchasing

 

[luigisho]

I forget everything covered in that video. I gave that and the quaife install video away so many years ago. You can shoot Josh at shonut a private message through the board and he should get it.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Here is some help on the engine support beam:

http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Engine_Support_Beam

Compliments of Nick Chrimes of Baysho Performance.

The V6 site where this comes from has a lot of info on your topic.

Thanks for the plug. Here's some other info that should help:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ath045ktui8zvz/Tranny removal summary.doc?dl=0

 

[itwonder]

The SHOnut video also includes a detailed, printed procedure that guides you step by step through the entire project. I actually used that more than the video. Either way, I highly recommend it. The only hints I can add are 1) Replace the engine rear main seal, but leave the with the engine carrier gasket alone unless you plan on dropping the oil pan for some reason; 2) If you have the flywheel turned, make sure the pins don't protrude too much afterwards or else the pressure plate may not fully seat.