Trying to drop the sub frame to get the damned alt. out because it went dead on me. Question is can I lower just the rear or do I need to lower the front and the rear? Also, do I need to put jacks under it or anything?
need help ASAP on dropping frame
- Thread starter 97V8SHO
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ncfirefighter
New Member
to lower the sub frame is not that hard i use a big tranny jack. but if you have a flat surface you can use floor jacks (2) and (2) jack stands. you will need to remove the tires and remove the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle 18 mm i think. and you will have to take the steering shaft off the rack and pinnion also if not you will damage the steering shaft. you will have to take off the hose if you are lowering the subframe real far down. with the car resting on jackstands place the floor jacks on each side of the car on the subframe and have a friend to help after removing the 4 bolts on the subframe slowly lower the to jacks down. you showed not have to lower it real far if you are changing the alt. you might even be able, do the procdure on change the plugs on the v8sho.com and change the alt with out removing the engine
Jack the car up and put jack stands under the rails on the floor. Then put a floor jack under the sub frame on the alternator side. Take the bolts out and then screw them back in three turns.
Lower the the sub frame.
Lower the the sub frame.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
FWIW, it can be done without touching the subframe and thus requiring an alignemnt. All you have to do is pop out the tie rod end from the knuckle. You'll have to twist and pull and it will take some effort, but it is possible. I probably haven't touched the subframe to do an alt in at least 7 or 8 alt changes now. First time is time consuming, but after a few I've got alt swaps down to about an hour tops.
Another tip is to pull the upper and lower cowls and disconnect the fuel lines and swing them out of the way for easier access to the upper stud, etc.
Oh, and make sure it has the right pulley. If it's not a black pulley with a F5DU part number on it, it's the wrong pulley. A lot of remans get the larger yellow zinc plated Windstar pulley which will reduce your idle amps and cause occasional misses like a bad coil.
Another tip is to pull the upper and lower cowls and disconnect the fuel lines and swing them out of the way for easier access to the upper stud, etc.
Oh, and make sure it has the right pulley. If it's not a black pulley with a F5DU part number on it, it's the wrong pulley. A lot of remans get the larger yellow zinc plated Windstar pulley which will reduce your idle amps and cause occasional misses like a bad coil.
If you have not dropped the sub frame before then it can be difficult due to lack of experience or rusty bolts. But to only loosen and drop one side will not throw the alignment out and is really pretty easy, assuming the bolts come out. About a 3 minute job with an air wrench. Sure makes things easier on the alt change.
Thanx for the help guys, I just dropped the one side with a jack under it. And I did take the upper cowling off...only way I saw to get to the upper bolt. But I left the fuel lines on, took the PS line loose though.
ScotSHO
SHO Member
Are there access holes in the floor pan on a GEN III to get to the subframe nuts? I'm only familiar with the Gen I/II's, where you have to cut the hole to replace the rear nuts.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
The stock V8 SHO alternator will have either a 56 or 57mm pulley depending on which year. The Windstar pulley will be 64mm. Get a caliper and measure the tops of the rib grooves. It not outside the realm of possibility that you've been driving around with the wrong pulley on the old alternator. The OE pulley is black, not zinc plated.97V8SHO said:
I just changed out mine (twice). 
It had a gold colored heavy pulley that looked to be very close to the one I took off that was black. The used replacement alternator had Motorcraft on the back. And a bad regulator.....
So I took it back out and change swapped the regulators. The original one, which was the third alternator, had a bad rear bearing and was making quite a racket.
I tried to take it out without lowering the subframe but after cussing ford for 15 minutes I let the subframe down. Sure is a lot easier.
It had a gold colored heavy pulley that looked to be very close to the one I took off that was black. The used replacement alternator had Motorcraft on the back. And a bad regulator.....
So I took it back out and change swapped the regulators. The original one, which was the third alternator, had a bad rear bearing and was making quite a racket.
I tried to take it out without lowering the subframe but after cussing ford for 15 minutes I let the subframe down. Sure is a lot easier.
The pully that came off was a black one, I still haven't put it on yet though because when I went to loosen the bolt to hook the positive cable to it, the damn thing snapped! So I'm taking it back tomm and getting a new one.
SHOMEX
SHO Member
not trying to hijack this tread but I need some advice from Annonimous or others that know better than me. If it's not a black pulley with a F5DU part number on it, it's the wrong pulley. A lot of remans get the larger yellow zinc plated Windstar pulley which will reduce your idle amps and cause occasional misses like a bad coil
I am replacing my alternator with a remanufactured Westling Alt; the pulley on the factory alt has the F50U # with a black pulley and measure 54mm on the inside of the gromet, while the Westling has a F78U # with a grey pulley and measure 57mm. what do I do? If have to swap the pulleys how could I do it? thanks in advance for any help on this.
I am replacing my alternator with a remanufactured Westling Alt; the pulley on the factory alt has the F50U # with a black pulley and measure 54mm on the inside of the gromet, while the Westling has a F78U # with a grey pulley and measure 57mm. what do I do? If have to swap the pulleys how could I do it? thanks in advance for any help on this.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
I agree w/Paul, smaller is better than larger, especially with the COP ignition and the LRC regulator.
SHOMEX
SHO Member
Thanks SHO123 and Mr Anonymous for the advised 
Just one more thing measuring the pulleys on the top inside gromets got me 59mm on the old alt and 61mm on the remanufactered westling. (the smaller pulley came on the old factory alt) If I want it to swap pulleys how can a do it. 
Just one more thing measuring the pulleys on the top inside gromets got me 59mm on the old alt and 61mm on the remanufactered westling. (the smaller pulley came on the old factory alt) If I want it to swap pulleys how can a do it. 
SHOWHAT9
SHO Member
Hmmm timely topic. I just lost my Alt right before my surgery on my right arm.
did not jack up sf. pulled cowl, pulled wheel well liners, got the two bottom bolts from the well, got the top from the missing cowl. Now I did have to disconnect the tie rod, which took 5 seconds, but the bad alt came out, pulley down in about 5 minutes.
Reversed for install, and new belt. Boom working like a champ. And I don't have the skinny arms of others.
Make sure you get the ground tight - you;ll see if you don't!!
did not jack up sf. pulled cowl, pulled wheel well liners, got the two bottom bolts from the well, got the top from the missing cowl. Now I did have to disconnect the tie rod, which took 5 seconds, but the bad alt came out, pulley down in about 5 minutes.
Reversed for install, and new belt. Boom working like a champ. And I don't have the skinny arms of others.
Make sure you get the ground tight - you;ll see if you don't!!
SHOMEX
SHO Member
Hi, one last question about how to remove the pulley from the alt, how do I keep the pulley from turning when trying to unbolt the big nut? used a strip rubber wrench with no success. Then put the westling remanufactured alternator with the pulley it came with and couldn't get the serpentine belt in to the pulley, so now I'm trying to swap the pulley's but don't know how. Please help me.
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