need code troubleshooting help

[mtxcollegegal]

For about the last year my car will stall sometimes when i'm at a stoplight. At first it only happened in the winter and now it happens a lot more often. If I pull up to the light and the tach reads anything over 1000rpm (sometimes it stays as high as 2500rpm), in a few seconds the rpms will just drop and the car will die. If the car is idling at ~950rpm when i pull up then it will be fine. Also recently the car starts shaking violently while i'm driving down the road, with the rpm quickly jumping +/-200 RPM causing the car to shake.

I've been thinking its the fuel pump and finally today we ran the codes and this is what we got:

koeo
111
214
542

koer
538

I did the goose test like 3 times so i'm not sure why it was giving me 538.

Do you guys have any ideas what it could be? Money is kinda tight so it would be great if i didn't have to buy a new fuel pump but if thats what it is then so be it.

 

[shopartsnw]

I am not a code expert, but here is what I would say.

The 538 is failing the goose test. I would not be worried about this one.

The 542 (fuel pump circuit failure) code will pop up if the car stalls, so don't worry about that one.

The 214 is the code causing your problems. I think this is the cam sensor. It is located on the passenger's side rear cam by the firewall. It is pretty easy to change, but if you find an oil leak behind the cam sensor, you will also need to change the cam seal.

The parts are easy to swap, and they don't cost that much compared to other potential repairs.

THat is my diagnosis from 1500 miles away.

- Mike

 

[mtxcollegegal]

thanks Mike! Is it difficult to replace this cam sensor? I mean is it hard to get to anything like that? Any problems people tend to have?

 

[SASHO91]

I posted these awhile back.. but i cant find the thread.
If the car is an MTX this will work. As the ATX is ALOT easier to replace. But seeing as you have MTX in your screen name..
The back bolt is a PITA!!! no room... so you can do this:
You'll need a few 1/4'' extensions. Or one long one.
If you look closely, you can see the bolt through a hole in theframe

The extended extensions....

and there you have it


makes it SOOO much easier. and the install is just as easy. Also, you can get the other bolt out with this method. But you'll need a swivel. The size of the socket is 7/32 or 5.5mm
hope that helps!

 

[pascofan92]

no the cam shaft sensor is not very hard to replace.You can see it if you look on the passenger side(LEFT side) of the car.look for a circular plastic "O" looking thing with an electrical connector visibly on the back.Simple 30$ part.

 

[SASHO91]

or take a look at the pic above???

 

[mtxcollegegal]

thanks so much guys! Thats my project this week so i'll let ya know how it turns out. I really appreciate all the help:wave:

 

[mtxcollegegal]

sorry i haven't gotten back in a while. Life got busy and i didn't get to it until tuesday. Since then it hasn't stalled at all yet, which is good. I am noticing the tach still fluctuates quite a bit though when i'm at idle and at highway speeds. A few times the oil light has come on like its going to stall but then it doesn't (when i'm at idle). At highway speeds its not anything like the violent shaking the car was doing before but I can still feel the rpms jump +/-300. At idle its more like +/-500. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm going to try to pull the codes again tonight so i'll let you know what i find.

Thanks again for all your help.

-Erin

 

[TYSHO]

Try resetting your idle.

Also, this "shaking" you are talking about, are you sure it's not a hesitation from the motor, since you said it happens when the rpms drop or jump? If so, I would start looking for a bad ground [check ground strap on the back of the intake and check the 2 bolts and brackets holding the cross over tube in place] for the DIS module, or try replacing the DIS module with another one from a junk yard or something. That's the only thing I can think of that will make your rpms move around while driving.

 

[ohfosho]

Try resetting your idle.

thats exactly what to do. clear the codes after you have replaced the aforementioned parts. unplug the battary cables and let sit for 10 mins.

then go for a good drive and let the car warm up to operating temp. and let the cooling fan come on and go off (as normally happens middle of your temp gauge.), let the car idle for 5 mins or so, then your idle will be set automatically... usually near 750 rpms

if you still have problems pull your codes again to see if something comes up

P.S. start planning on doing a 60 K service if you havent recently...the sensors usually go around the same time... you will get code 213, and/or 211 (pointing at the CPS) soon enough if you have the same luck as most SHO owners

 

[mtxcollegegal]

P.S. start planning on doing a 60 K service if you havent recently...the sensors usually go around the same time... you will get code 213, and/or 211 (pointing at the CPS) soon enough if you have the same luck as most SHO owners

My car only has 83,000 miles on it and it had the 60k done at 60k.

The car is now stalling again at stop lights and i feel i should mention that the gas tank is low, like 1/4 tank or less.

Thanks for the help guys, all great things to check on!

 

[TYSHO]

My car only has 83,000 miles on it and it had the 60k done at 60k.

The car is now stalling again at stop lights and i feel i should mention that the gas tank is low, like 1/4 tank or less.

Thanks for the help guys, all great things to check on!

Don't tell me this happens only when you get down to a certain gas range!? I had this same problem and symptoms, it was the fuel sender level being off accuracy. I always wondered what the problem was when I hit the 1/4 mark!