Name This...Please!

[Best Sho]

Is this the inner tie rod? If not what is it?
There play in the tie rod and in this piece. There a squeek when turning and it comming from this area.

www.photoisland.com password brianna, folder tierod

Thanks, Mike

 

[AutoSHO]

That is a Sway Bar Endlink.

 

[MOSHO92]

agreed.

 

[SHO Type U]

It looks like the stock item, time to replace both.

 

[Ferendon]

Sway bar Endlinks are cheap, and make a big difference. Get a set of MOOGs, they're greasable I believe, and you can get them at any O'Reillys.

 

[sdpatt]

I found very close replacements of the upgraded composite sway bar links at AutoZone. Here is my writeup in my lower control arm topic.

http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=270944&postcount=8

 

[Best Sho]

Changing Swap Bar End Link? Big Deal?

Hi,
Is changing the Sway Bar End Link a big deal or is it as easy as unhooking the bolts / nuts then putting the new one on. Would I need a alignment?
Anything I should know before doing this?

As you can see in the pic at the start of this post the boots are pretty shot up.

Thanks, Mike

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Simple replacement. No alignment needed.

I also recomend the MOOG greasible endlnks

 

[SASHO91]

i also have the MOOG, easy install also.

 

[projectSHO89]

I found very close replacements of the upgraded composite sway bar links at AutoZone. Here is my writeup in my lower control arm topic.

http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=270944&postcount=8

While Scott has had good luck with the AZ endlinks, I have not.

I went through two sets of them, each lasted around 12 months. They come with a paltry 3 month warranty at last check. That's $100 bucks blown...

I replaced them again this spring with the Moogs. Lifetime Warranty from O'Reilly's.

Steve

 

[Slo-Sho]

Get the aluminum windstar endlinks.

 

[BlankDisk]

NAPA recently started selling a new type of endlink. I replaced all 4 of mine and the handling improved greatly. It's a dark metal one, and comes with a screw-in drain plug for any excess water that gets into them. Well worth teh money

 

[pjtoledo]

NAPA recently started selling a new type of endlink. I replaced all 4 of mine and the handling improved greatly. It's a dark metal one, and comes with a screw-in drain plug for any excess water that gets into them. Well worth teh money

Huh ???
Guess I bought that grease gun for 'nuttin.

Perry

 

[pjtoledo]

Simple replacement. No alignment needed.

I also recomend the MOOG greasible endlnks

Agreed it should be a simple replacement,,,,,but,,, here in the great northern rust belt those nuts often need cut or drilled off.

Perry

 

[MilTownSHO]

Agreed get the Moogs not the cheap plastic replacements

 

[DHMag]

NAPA recently started selling a new type of endlink. I replaced all 4 of mine and the handling improved greatly. It's a dark metal one, and comes with a screw-in drain plug for any excess water that gets into them. Well worth teh money

drain plug ? hmm, thats a new one. show me a pic.

 

[TimboSHO]

Part Numbers?

Anybody have some part numbers for the different endlinks? I checked SDPatt's PN for the Autozone ones and it said 'no parts match.' I also have a Napa and Advanced Auto near me. Anyone know prices of those? I'm having trouble navigating through their site....

 

[Guy Newton]

front swaybar endlinks Moog K8702
rockauto.com
$53.68


Guy

 

[TimboSHO]

Does anyone know how good the Advanced Auto endlinks are? Part number 18136. Thanks.

 

[revhardSHO]

Autozone and Advance Auto have both recently upgraded from the plastic endlinks to solid metal units. I forget where I bought the MOOGs (they are non-greaseable), but Im thinking it was Advance Auto. Other endlink is still metal but the shaft is a bit thinner and overall it doesnt look/feel as strong as the MOOG links, but both should do the job quite well. Price has not changed @ 24.99 each.

pjtoledo,
I hear ya. The nuts/studs are hard as **** to remove up here. The easiest way Ive found is heat up the joint with a MAP gas torch, pop it off with a hammer (or crowbar, but be careful) so the ball/stud is exposed. Clean it up (so it doesnt smoke), reheat the nut until red and put a vice grip on the ball to stop it from turning. Use an impact to work the nut off. The 5/16" connection on the front of the stud is just too small (Ive broken 3 sockets) to handle the rust. Another improvement with the new endlinks is they have a 17mm (or 19mm, cant remember) groove behind the stud making installation and removal a breeze, even in the rustbelt states!