My Stereo Setup

[javve]

I swapped the EATC and Radio locations when doing the blend door actuator. I have a little bit of cleanup to do to make it look sleek around the bracket for the radio and get the EATC to sit in place a little better.



New wiring ran under the carpet as well as to the speakers. Passenger side I went through the rubber tube on the door.



Power distribution blocks mounted in place on the old factory amp bracket. Wiring nicely cleaned up with velcro tape.



The look of the finished setup. I used plywood mounted to the other old amp bracket, then mounted the amps to that. On the left side behind the carpet is where I relocated the wireless key module too. No need for the old black board at the back of the trunk and people are unable to see my unlock code.

The box is a 12" bandpass. It has the sealed side on the back side of the speaker instead of on the front.

Two Rockford Fosgate 6 x 8's in the rear, Two Clarion 6.5 in the front doors. I will replace the door ones later for components. I found the clarions at the JY for under 10 bucks.

Rockford Fosgate Prime 300.4 for the speakers
Rockford Fosgate Prime 500.1 for the sub

 

[expy916]

How did you feed them through the door??? I tried forever when doing mine and couldnt. They go from under the dash and through the door panel lol.

 

[Art5]

you have to slightly cut bezel for the radio to fit better. Also, might want to have to have frame for it.

 

[expy916]

Thats alot of port area and a short port length for a box that size btw. Tuned way too high

 

[javve]

How did you feed them through the door??? I tried forever when doing mine and couldnt. They go from under the dash and through the door panel lol.

On the passenger side with the kick panel off you can get the wire to go through with the other wires. On the driver side I was able to feed it through where the other wires go through but had to drill a hole in the side of the door for the speaker wire.

On the comment about the box. It's a bandpass, so is sealed on the back side of the box. The port is about 1.5 feet long and has a good curve on the back side just like on the front. It's a different design than most bandpass boxes. It actually sounds great how it is, and have yet to find something it bottoms out on.

 

[javve]

you have to slightly cut bezel for the radio to fit better. Also, might want to have to have frame for it.

I had to do some cutting to get it in. When I can invest in a Dremel I will revisit it and do some more to it so the radio trim will actually fit and cover things like it should.

Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[expy916]

Not to talk down on your workmanship, but why not ground the amps straight to the strut tower? It looks like you only have one set of rcas for your speaker amp? And you should look in to the JL C3 or even C5 for your fronts. I have C2s all the way around. 6 up front 5x7 out back and they are great. Have them on a 360w amp. They get LOUD and stay nice and clean.

 

[javve]

Not to talk down on your workmanship, but why not ground the amps straight to the strut tower? It looks like you only have one set of rcas for your speaker amp? And you should look in to the JL C3 or even C5 for your fronts. I have C2s all the way around. 6 up front 5x7 out back and they are great. Have them on a 360w amp. They get LOUD and stay nice and clean.

The ground block is connected to the strut tower on the passenger side. It's just hard to see. I'll eventually upgrade my fronts. I want to get a component setup for them, which isn't cheap for something worthwhile doing the work on. Would also like to dynamat the doors at that time and fix the door panels so they are tighter. Right now it's clean and loud, but I know it could get better.

The speaker amp has two sets of RCA's... it's the top amp. The wires from the Stereo run to a line converter then the RCA's hook from that to the amp. It's a nice JVC deck but only has the sub pre-outs, and the amp doesn't have a high power input. The bottom amp is the one with one set of RCA's which runs from the deck all the way back.

I don't see it as talking down on my craftmanship. There are different ways to accomplish the same thing and I am sure there are things that I could do differently and get better results.

 

[expy916]

I know it doesnt matter much because of the power, but shorten up all that excess wire! and do the big 3! the factory engine to body and battery to body grounds arent the greatest.

 

[javve]

I know it doesnt matter much because of the power, but shorten up all that excess wire! and do the big 3! the factory engine to body and battery to body grounds arent the greatest.

At some point I may get in there and shorten up the wires. I'm sure it'll help get the most voltage to the amps. I eventually want to add a cap as well.

What's the big 3? I'm sure it has to do with cleaning the grounds or running some extra ground wires??

 

[Sammy~D]

for the same price as a 1-2 farad cap you can get a 100 farad deep cell high charge audio battery

 

[expy916]

Alt to battery, battery to body, motor to battery/body. Causes better voltage. More voltage= less amps for same amount of watts. Dont waste your money on a cap

 

[SuperHO]

At some point I may get in there and shorten up the wires. I'm sure it'll help get the most voltage to the amps. I eventually want to add a cap as well.

The grounds going from the amps to the distro box are way too long. Take em off the block, shorten the **** outta em and ground em both separately. There should never be more than 3' of ground per amp, and preferably less than 18".

Also, the pic may be somewhat deceiving, but I don't see a foot and a half long port in that box....I see about 6" worth.

 

[expy916]

This^