Multiple questions on 94' ATX

[SHOracer14]

Ok, the auction block special was bought with a non working tranny.... there were some other issues I didnt look into because I just wanted to get it running. Now that I have completed the tranny swap these are some issues I am having...

First, the car must have had some sort of remote car starter on it that was one of the crappiest wire jobs I have ever seen so I am trying to go through and yank everything out and rewire to stock. Two problems I believe this is causing is the tach is inoperable (I'mthinking a wire off the coil pack) and also only half of the dash lights are working. The left hand side (tach and half of the speedo) works but the other side does not. Is it run on one power source or maybe just burnt out bulb(s)? Also the lights on the shifter are not working.

Second, the car does shift into overdrive but the overdrive button on the shifter is inoperable for an instance when I would want to disable overdrive.

Third, there were absolutely no problems with the heating system before the tranny replacement but now it seems as if the heater core has gone bad (steam with coolant smell even with EATC turned off). Coincidence?
I am also seeing the check engine light flash on every once in awhile but I haven't had a chance to check the codes yet. also I noticed that every so often when coming to a hard stop the car will die. Seems a lot like a VSS but the VSS is brand new. Bad part?

 

[290]

"Douche SHO"

 

[SHO#7]

75% of Ford's have a non-working OD button.

I would doubt the VSS is bad. It does not set the CE light. From what I have run in to, a stall after a quick stop is most likely related to an Idle Air Control Valve, or a dirty MAF.

Mike

 

[projectSHO89]

Three out of four of my Fords have working OD switches. Of course, the fourth one is a stick...ROFL.....

 

[SHOracer14]

Ok.... I believe the "heater core" issue is resolved but will have to have further testing to confirm. The half dash light mod was caused by multiple bulbs being burnt out as I believe is the same case with the shifter lights but I did pull the gauge cluster and replace the light. The overdrive button is last on my list. The biggest two issues that are ******* me off are the CE light coming on every once in awhile (I just checked the codes but must have wrote them wrong because I am tired). I am also very miffed at the lack of a tach. I seemed to have all the wiring for the tach isolated and redone but it's not getting power from somewhere. Looks like some searching with the volatge meter is in order. It's really weird, it moves while cranking the car but as soon as it fires boom, no tach.

 

[SHOracer14]

DAMMIT!!!! Douche SHO strikes again! I just took it out for a spin to make sure the heater core issue is gone and I believe I have that fixed save for a little residual coolant burn off and slight coolant smell. The tach still does not work. I will try replacing the cam sensor as I believe all wiring is good now. THE BIGGEST THING THAT ****** ME OFF IS THE REPLACEMENT OF THE DASH BULBS NOW HAS MY SPEEDO GOING CRAZY! I must have jostled something loose or hooked it up wrong or something. I am too tired and ****** to tear it all apart again tonight I just need to vent as I feel this car is going to be a problem child just to get back to decent stock (safe) goodness.

 

[EMB2580]

THE BIGGEST THING THAT ****** ME OFF IS THE REPLACEMENT OF THE DASH BULBS NOW HAS MY SPEEDO GOING CRAZY! I must have jostled something loose or hooked it up wrong or something.

Since the speedo on Tauruses is operated by a cable, it sounds like you might not have the cable securely attached to the back of the speedo. Did you disconect the cable when you changed the bulbs?

 

[whiteman_01]

You also could have kinked the cable trying to get to the light bulbs. Thats what i did to mine, and it would flop all over the place because of it.

 

[SHOracer14]

You also could have kinked the cable trying to get to the light bulbs. Thats what i did to mine, and it would flop all over the place because of it.

This is a good possibility as it is definately hooked up (I could not get it back apart when I forgot to check something so I said fug it). I have the codes pulled now and many are pointing back to bad wiring or possible Cam Sensor.
172 (02 says I'm lean)
176 (other o2 says I'm lean)
214 CID circuit failure
336 Exhaust backpressure high PFE circuit voltage high
543 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
Also, codes are poiinting to a bad DPFE, there is some weird aftermarket one on there now that was also crappily wired like the rest of the car so to replace this I will have to go to the boneyard and score a factory harness to splice back in where it should go. Whoever worked on this car in the past should never touch a car ever ever ever fuggin' ever again.

 

[Minnesho]

replace your cam sensor.

 

[SHOracer14]

I've got all mechanical issues under tabs except for a couple of the codes which I will try solving tomorrow when I replace the cam sensor. The goofy speedo was caused by the shaft being slightly bent. I noticed this when I took it back apart to inspect. I must have been a little rough in re-asembly. I tweeked it back out and lubed the bearings now all is well. I also began taking the crappy (and bubbling) tint off of the windows. The side glasses were easy but the rear window is a big PITA. I'm only half done and without being to use a blade except very carefully in some spots in between the defroster I am having a hard time. I tried many adhesive stripper solvants as well as laquer thinner with little success. I also busted out the heat gun which definately makes it easy to peel but I can only do a small section at a time. Any suggestions? I also am a little aggravated that I got a little careless with the heat gun and made a small dark spot in the headliner and have a few burnt places on the rear deck. Oh well I guess it;s still better than the crappy tint.

 

[projectSHO89]

Straight ammonia in a soapy base works to dissolve the adhesive for the tint.

Steve

 

[SHOracer14]

I replaced the cam sensor today with no gain. I still have no tach and now it is throwing code 212 as well as the ones it was throwing before (172,176,214,336,543)? I must have missed a spliced out wire somewhere? Which wire sends the tach signal from the cam sensor? Possible ECU problem? I am getting angry.

 

[SHOracer14]

Since my last post I looked for more possible bad wiring (which I didn't find) as well as swapped out the DIS for a known good unit. Double checked grounds and all seems to be well. Still no tach (although it does hold at a few hundred rpms while cranking). Still getting same codes. I know it must be a wiring issue I just have no clue where to start.