MTX drain plug???

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1993MTXSHO

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Hey guys I know the mtx did not have a drain plug but a lot of guys put them in. Im not sure if this was done on my car but I took a look today and found this. Is this a normal bolt thats there, or does this look to be an installed drain plug? My car was very well maintained so it would not suprise me if the guys before me put one in.


 

TYSHO

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I wonder what else you might have installed in that car, especially with your dyno numbers!

Right now, if I was you, I'd be pulling that axle out looking for a Quaife! :biggrin:
 

1993MTXSHO

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did a burnout, it was a left wheel peel lol, this was before i knew not to do b urnouts, right when i bought the car.:nut: So thats cool I have that now my only other question which i might be able to find in a search but since this is here ill ask. Where do i fill the thing up after I drain it?
 
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TYSHO

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There's a pipe plug behind the little power steering cooler located on the subframe. All you need is a 3/8" rachet, no socket, and it'll come out. It's the only plug with a square indention for the rachet. You also fill up the tranny until it becomes even with the bottom of the opening. :thumb:
 

1993MTXSHO

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ok sweet thanks, so i basically overflow it but try not to haha.
 

Bizzy

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When you put the drain plug back in make sure you put some teflon tape on the plug prior to installing it. Also, 5-10 ft. lb. of torque but no more. If you over tighten it too much you'll be asking for it to strip out and then you'll be in a real pickle. Also make sure that the plug is made of brass, if it's not then replace it with one that is.
 

Shoaz

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Yeah, looks like the usual 3/8" brass drain plug. You also have subframe connectors and possibly aluminum sub frame bushings as well (maybe).

And some oil leaks. ;)

Like Beth said, teflon tape or pipe dope around the plug when you put it back in, don't overtighten. It's just in aluminum, and not very thick aluminum at that, so it can be stripped without a lot of effort.
 

1993MTXSHO

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:thumb: yeah i know i have sfc and no go in the alum bushings i checked haha. Also i do burn/leak 4 qts of oil every 3k miles. Im trying some gtx highmilage oil and that restore stuff becasue iv herd it works for osme people so i figure it cant hurt to try it. They guarentee you to feel the power difference so ill just return it if I dont and get my money back. Believe it or not i cleaned that all off about 3k miels ago, all the oil and such. Im also coating my entire bottom in rust bullet get rid of that nasty rust on my subframe. Cleaned my rockers the other day to looked brand new underneith compared to my 94 that was rotting away (the beauty of garage kept).
 

jedhead

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When you drill your case for the drain plug drill slowly to prevent galling. I was lucky to have a destroyed case to practice on before drilling into mine.

Bob
 

Xs SHO 1

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I understand 1/8-27 tap is used for this application. Why not 1/4-20, 5/16-18 or even the same type of thread pitch for the oil drain plug? 1/8-27 is on the small side, correct?
 

PhysicsSHO

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Xs SHO 1 said:
I understand 1/8-27 tap is used for this application. Why not 1/4-20, 5/16-18 or even the same type of thread pitch for the oil drain plug? 1/8-27 is on the small side, correct?

You could tap it to something else, I think that when Sergio tapped mine he sized it for a random spare bolt laying around. 1/8-27 NPT is the standard for pretty much everything aftermarket, if you wanted to add a temperature gauge or a cooler line for a Quaife, though few people will add either. The oil pan is metric, and hence a nuisance where plumbing is concerned. The other advantage to 1/8-27 is if you mess up, you could redrill for 1/4-20 ;)
 

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