Ict_Lx
Back in School!
I hear you on that one. I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to put an MTX into my rusted up 98'. Cheaper than finding a rust free donor body but is it worth it? Not sure yet...
MTX Conversions to be sold
- Thread starter SHODWN
- Start date
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I hear you on that one. I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to put an MTX into my rusted up 98'. Cheaper than finding a rust free donor body but is it worth it? Not sure yet...
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
The shell really doesnt matter too much, as most of the modifications have to do with the subframe/engine. Most all can be swapped into a new shell with ease.
- James
- James
luigisho
SHO Member
Right but the new shell increases the overall cost substantially. I'm in the same boat. The body of my GenIII is pretty beat to justify pouring that much money into it. If a rust free shell was cheap enough I'd consider it.
Motoman991
Member
When will you be able to post a complete list of all the needed parts for the MTX conversion?
I've always wanted a 5 speed for better performance, and getting almost 30mpg on the highway sure would be a nice improvemnt over 21.
I've always wanted a 5 speed for better performance, and getting almost 30mpg on the highway sure would be a nice improvemnt over 21.
NebraskaSHO
Harumph!
I have a complete 93 in my driveway. Please tell me this is exactly what I need to get a head start on this.
I agree, 20-22mpg gets old when your on the highway all the time. Plus my transmission is about dead...
I agree, 20-22mpg gets old when your on the highway all the time. Plus my transmission is about dead...
96blackSHO
New Member
Tansmission wiring harness to reverse switch clutch/ brake pedels cv axles rod shifter and a couple more little things so it's def worth it to buy a parts car!
Motoman991
Member
These are all parts from a 5 speed SHO?
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Yes. Ideally having a V6 MTX rod-shifted complete donor car guarantees everything that's needed except for the flywheel, clutch kit, adapter plate & flywheel spacer, and hardware.
I'll try to compile a comprehensive list of what would be needed in a customer-provided parts scenario over the weekend.
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
rather then customer provides parts will we be able to buy the there parts from you to complete the package or will my car have to go to you guys with needed parts?
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
You can buy the parts from them as well.
peglegtom
Member
I'm Seriously Interested in this Conversion
for my 1999 with 56K miles. But what would be the total cost assuming no "doner" Gen II 5 speed. Also would like to have the conversion done in the midwest (such as in St. Louis.) It would be great to do this summer, as I then have the Alfa to use as a DD.
Let me know the details.
Thanks!
for my 1999 with 56K miles. But what would be the total cost assuming no "doner" Gen II 5 speed. Also would like to have the conversion done in the midwest (such as in St. Louis.) It would be great to do this summer, as I then have the Alfa to use as a DD.
Let me know the details.
Thanks!
96blackSHO
New Member
well prices are not final and the convertion has to be done at NESHO due to time factors lift tools parts supplys and convience kirk does do cross country shipping of cars so you cant work it out if not talk to st louis sho and talk him into bringing the car out then it will give him a reason to come visit there are multiple options you just gotta talk to kirk and findout what works best
Inkertinker
Well-Known Member
Also to add to the above, I left my Gen 4 with Kirk. Right now there are a few install challenges that are being ironed out, so I will not be installing the MTX conversions anytime soon. Once everything gets Ironed out, then maybe in the next 6-8 months it can be a reality for me. We will see once NESHO gets it down to a science (which it already is) But ease of install is not...
- James (St Louis SHO) From Daves comp.... Damn I'm bad at this....
- James (St Louis SHO) From Daves comp.... Damn I'm bad at this....
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
so at the moment the car would have to go to nesho to get this mod? some one said it does some one said it dont?
i would like to do something like this my self which im sure would save tons of money.
i would like to do something like this my self which im sure would save tons of money.
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
Time will tell....
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
For the time being.. Yes I will need the cars here to do the swap. while it will cost more becuase of the shipping it will be the best for all. I have 90% now as a pretty simple ( yeah right)
Each one will get better as we do more, I have to make a few more things to feel comfortable in selling kits. right now the only thing really stopping me is the installation of the Trans Mount. I have to mod the heck out of it to make it work. this here is a HUGE pain in the ass! Im ordering some books now to see about getting a different style mount to simplify this. This part is the only thing that is stopping me from selling a kit. and it will take a while to iron out.
Update: after all the testing we have done I have found a weak spot. See we tested in 1-5th gear and its been flawless. but in Carlisle I found out that we never tested R (reverse). I completly ripped the bolts out of the block from the motor mount bracket. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!:booboo:
1. the Clutches are too aggresive (no slipping)
2. the rear mtr mt when in R pulls the motor up, there is alot of slack in the mount so the motor ****** voilently.
3. Steel Bolts were impacted into block. causing the threads to roll over and lose thier ability to hold.
Fix for new installs.
1. going to try a stock disc (was in the prototype and worked great)
2. install Steel V bracket into Mtr Mt, then urethane to stop movement.
3. Install studs into block, 55mm long instead of the 30mm bolts with only 20mm of engagement. Now we will have 40mm for strength and support.
4. install Crush locknuts on studs
5. tighten stud/nuts with resonable force.
6. Install bracket between Atl bracket and Mtr mt bracket.
For mine, Im doing all the above but drilling out the m10 holes and going to an m12 stud.
**** YOU NEED A TUNER TO DO THIS MOD****
For those that are serious about doing this, your first step should be to contact Paul Nimz (SHOZ123) for a tuner. This will cut the all at once cost down a bit if you buy this now. you can have a tune for the auto installed then add the MTX tune later. Let Paul know that your plans are to do the MTX.
I also have a Vendor that is supplying the clutches, you will purchase this seperatly from him after we get all the glitches worked out. I have the equivilent to a stage 3, and Matt has the Equivilent to a stage 1, both are very aggressive. Not bad for most users but a stock clutch held fine before and will be eaiser on the driveline for the average person just wanting to do a swap, instead of the guy that wants to pound the car into the ground. The Gen 4 will have a stock disc with the PP and flywheel that we are using now, Untill it gets a qualife and turbo.
Each one will get better as we do more, I have to make a few more things to feel comfortable in selling kits. right now the only thing really stopping me is the installation of the Trans Mount. I have to mod the heck out of it to make it work. this here is a HUGE pain in the ass! Im ordering some books now to see about getting a different style mount to simplify this. This part is the only thing that is stopping me from selling a kit. and it will take a while to iron out.
Update: after all the testing we have done I have found a weak spot. See we tested in 1-5th gear and its been flawless. but in Carlisle I found out that we never tested R (reverse). I completly ripped the bolts out of the block from the motor mount bracket. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!:booboo:
1. the Clutches are too aggresive (no slipping)
2. the rear mtr mt when in R pulls the motor up, there is alot of slack in the mount so the motor ****** voilently.
3. Steel Bolts were impacted into block. causing the threads to roll over and lose thier ability to hold.
Fix for new installs.
1. going to try a stock disc (was in the prototype and worked great)
2. install Steel V bracket into Mtr Mt, then urethane to stop movement.
3. Install studs into block, 55mm long instead of the 30mm bolts with only 20mm of engagement. Now we will have 40mm for strength and support.
4. install Crush locknuts on studs
5. tighten stud/nuts with resonable force.
6. Install bracket between Atl bracket and Mtr mt bracket.
For mine, Im doing all the above but drilling out the m10 holes and going to an m12 stud.
**** YOU NEED A TUNER TO DO THIS MOD****
For those that are serious about doing this, your first step should be to contact Paul Nimz (SHOZ123) for a tuner. This will cut the all at once cost down a bit if you buy this now. you can have a tune for the auto installed then add the MTX tune later. Let Paul know that your plans are to do the MTX.
I also have a Vendor that is supplying the clutches, you will purchase this seperatly from him after we get all the glitches worked out. I have the equivilent to a stage 3, and Matt has the Equivilent to a stage 1, both are very aggressive. Not bad for most users but a stock clutch held fine before and will be eaiser on the driveline for the average person just wanting to do a swap, instead of the guy that wants to pound the car into the ground. The Gen 4 will have a stock disc with the PP and flywheel that we are using now, Untill it gets a qualife and turbo.
IM Buddy8
Active Member
Soooooo awesome..
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
got a ball park price.
i know i read that its gonna depend on whats supplyed. and what is all needed.. but
is this a $1000 job or a $10000 job. thats what i looking for since my atx only has 25k on it anyways. but hate the atx it doesnt know when to shift or anything.. i know a tune would help but mine as well go all the way and just switch to a mtx.
i know i read that its gonna depend on whats supplyed. and what is all needed.. but
is this a $1000 job or a $10000 job. thats what i looking for since my atx only has 25k on it anyways. but hate the atx it doesnt know when to shift or anything.. i know a tune would help but mine as well go all the way and just switch to a mtx.
96blackSHO
New Member
I did my swap and my tranny only had 450 miles on it
peglegtom
Member
I Would Like to Have this Done in the Midwest
Could this be done at St Louis SHO? What would be the costs? I would also consider having my cams welded at the same time. I'm not opposed to shipping the car, but it would have to be factored into the total cost. So I could drive the car to SL, or have it shipped to and back from NE. I have shipped cars in the past, and it's not a good experience all around.
Like other's have asked, is this a $3000 expedience like a auto trans rebuild/replacement, or much more?
I realize that this experimental at this point, but we need some approximate numbers at this point to determine if this realistic or not!
Could this be done at St Louis SHO? What would be the costs? I would also consider having my cams welded at the same time. I'm not opposed to shipping the car, but it would have to be factored into the total cost. So I could drive the car to SL, or have it shipped to and back from NE. I have shipped cars in the past, and it's not a good experience all around.
Like other's have asked, is this a $3000 expedience like a auto trans rebuild/replacement, or much more?
I realize that this experimental at this point, but we need some approximate numbers at this point to determine if this realistic or not!
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