motor mount... again

[RogueSHO]

damnit! what is it with me and these stupid things. i just brought my car in to have one done and it turned out to be the bolt that held it in. now it's doing the same crap all over again only i'm thinking maybe it's the other one. when i put a (small) load on the engine it pops right up like it wants to just jump out of the car. it's the front coming up and not the back going down so... front mount? i don't really even know where they are or what position they're in. i want to upgrade anyway... i was reading about some made by this guy and he called them "zero clearance"... i don't remember where though. anyone know what i'm talking about?

myke

 

[Mike Kopstain]

It's best to replace all the mounts at one time, if not that, the front and rear should always be replaced at the same time. The reasoning for this is when one mount goes bad, there is increased stress on the other two mounts. You may very likely have another bad mount.

 

[RogueSHO]

yeah, i was thinking that... the thing is they never replaced the first one... just the bolt.

 

[mikiedreb]

RogueSHO,

Have you checked the condition of the cast bracket which mounts to the motor (to which the A/C and alternator attach)? If the brackets' holes thru which the long bolts go through are oblong, the new motor mount holes may get hammered as the engine torques over, loosening the bolts.

Mike
92 MTX - 124K - Box stock - K&N - Daily Driver

 

[qiksho]

You can't just replace the bolt....Unless you cut it off and weld on a new one...which it would be easy to see the rubber is seperated from the steal.

Either way Shonutperformance.com sells the reinforceed ones and I think even the factory ones at a discounted price. I had to replace them on my 89...it cost me 350 for all 3 mounts...It isn't real hard however. thumbs_u

 

[sdpatt]

You may want to leave the transmission mount alone if it has not yet failed since the original is still in good shape on mine even after going through several failed front and rear mounts over the miles.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

If your problem is the front motor mount, you need to replace the cast backet. These do get oblong over time, and they will multiple considerable force onto the bolt, shearing it. No matter what you upgrade to, you will still sheer bolts. Your mount is fine, I suspect you just broke off another bolt. Usually the top will sheer, allowing for a nice pivot point for the motor. Just get a new bracket (think you'll have to go junkyard for this) and be done with your mount worries.

 

[SHOZ123]

Tie it down with a chain.

 

[RogueSHO]

thanks for the suggestions guys... i actually did mention tying it down with a chain to someone today, funny coincidence. i'll take a look at that bracket... if i can find it.
later, myke.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

RogueSHO:
thanks for the suggestions guys... i actually did mention tying it down with a chain to someone today, funny coincidence. i'll take a look at that bracket... if i can find it.
later, myke.

You do know Fred is back in business right Mike?

 

[SHOZ123]

Here's a pic of the chain on my '97

and a close up

 

[RogueSHO]

hahahahahha i thought you were kidding about the chain... that works? anyway, yes randy, i realise this... i'm getting some money soon and the plan was to dump it all in the SHO... new plan: BUY ANOTHER CAR!!! (keeping the sho of course, as a project)

myke

 

[SHOZ123]

Better believe it works. Just have a little slack in it. The motor will not move more than a 1/4" back towards the firewall. Improves the throttle response and off the line feel. And you won't break anymore motor mounts.

<small>[ November 22, 2002, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[jthomas68]

The Gen I/II`s don`t have anyplace accessable to tie a chain to.I`ve tried mounting a chain to the lower intake plenum support bolt,but i was not trusting enough that the one bolt will hold it.I have a set up of the same basic concept now,but there is a steel strap rather than a chain,and it uses 2 mounting points on the motor.

 

[viperrt450]

Do you have pics Jermey? I want to tie town the motor some how on my atx.

 

[SuperHO]

Would it be possible to run a length of chain up from the subframe to the engine lift bracket? Or would that tear into the altenator? I've thought about that too....where does he have that chain attached on that 97? It almost looks like it's wrapped around the exhaust manifold...

,,,>^,,^<,,,
Silver 92
3.2 w/ 3.0 intake cams
gutted airbox
Dynomax exhaust w/ gutted cats
Limited Slip burn_out

Wanted:
Good idea for a project car, either a race SHO or a rear wheel drive vehicle using the SHO engine as motivation. More details can be found on TCCA forums.

 

[SHOZ123]

On my '97 it is wrapped tightly around the exhaust manifold. There is no slack at the top. At the bottom there is a bit of slack so the engine can move a bit.

What ever you do the chain needs to be pulled straight up. Not at any angle and the load needs to be centered on the motor.

The GEN 3s conveniently have a hole in the subframe immediately below the manifold exactly on center.

I just went out and looked at my '93 MTX. It looks like it wouldn't be too hard to fashion a bracket out of 1/4" x 1 & 1/2" flat stock that would attach to the lower intake support bolts. It would be shaped like this......

with the chain attaching at the X. It looks like even with my big oil filter there is enough clearance to go straight down to the subframe.

<small>[ November 24, 2002, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>