Most FWHP acheived with FPS's shaft driven kit?

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chknhwk

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I know exactly what what you're saying, however, did you not bother to read that I didn't even quote the drilling of the other pattern? Negative. I made a statement about getting a pattern done from the factory. Take it for what it's worth, but get the *** off my case.

If you know what I'm saying then why do you try to answer my question with statements that aren't relavent? If you're not going to stay on topic then stay away from my questions.
 

MLNIUMFLKN

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My point is that if you look at his wheels there aren't extra holes. If what he said is what I'm reading, that he had a set of 5x114.3mm wheels machined to 5x108mm what do the holes look like? How are the lugs sitting? Do you even understand what I'm asking?

I'm not exactly sure how it was done, but they did start with a 5x114.3 and that was the only bolt pattern that they recommended to drill to a 5x108. I've never really thought about how they did it until now. After they were finished, there were 5 larger holes each with a smaller hole in the center to fit the studs. They must have drilled 5 new larger holes to get rid of the original holes for the 5x114.3 pattern, and positioned the holes so that the 5x108 pattern could be made in the center of each hole. They used something metallic to fill the space in between the large and small holes, and I'm not exactly sure how they were able to insert it into the wheel. They would've had to drill horizontally into each hole (inside the wheel) to be able to insert the metal that was used to create the smaller hole inside the large hole, and do the same thing for the center hub since that had to be changed too. I don't know if any of that makes any sense and it's kind of hard to explain without a picture.
 

chknhwk

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Ok, I was actually going to ask if you could post pictures if you don't mind.
Did you deal directly with the manufacturer on the redrilling or through a distributor like TireRack? There's a new set of wheels out on TireRack that I really like but (of course :mad: ) they're not available in our bolt pattern.
Thank you for the explanation, MLNIUMFLKN.
 

somedude_001

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Essentially, what you are saying is that cooler air equals less boost pressure, and that the better the intercooler, the more pressure drop it will have. Increasing the thermal efficiency of a particular intercooler will not result in a drop in boost pressure. When spraying my intercooler with nitrous, the resultant cooler air charge did not decrease my boost pressure (as measure at the manifold), but it did increase power by 40whp.

Tim different rules apply to a supercharger than our turbo. a supercharger makes a set amount of air at a certain shaft speed, so when you cool the charge their pressure drops some. With our turbos we have this funny valve that will sense the pressure drop and increase the output of the turbo to raise boost to desired level. This is also the same theory i have about cams with overlap. any wasted charge will just make the turbo work harder unlike a supercharger that you would have to pulley down to keep the same boost.
 

chknhwk

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Tim different rules apply to a supercharger than our turbo. a supercharger makes a set amount of air at a certain shaft speed, so when you cool the charge their pressure drops some. With our turbos we have this funny valve that will sense the pressure drop and increase the output of the turbo to raise boost to desired level. This is also the same theory i have about cams with overlap. any wasted charge will just make the turbo work harder unlike a supercharger that you would have to pulley down to keep the same boost.

I read a good article in MM&FF (yes, sometimes they actually bring the tech) describing how their boost pressure dropped like two pounds (I might be a little off, it was about six years ago I read it :lol: ) but they gained something like 25rwhp by porting the heads. Better flowing heads = less restriction = more airflow = lower boost pressure but yet yields an overall increase in hp due to increased air flow. It's neat how it all comes around. :thumb:
 

SeanMc

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No thanks. :) And good luck driving it away too. Those pics were taken about 10 mins before the tow truck arrived yesterday morning. I found out today a bearing broke loose and shot through the transmission case which explains the leaking fluid. I expected something to happen with the tranny sooner or later. It lasted about a month with the increased boost, but it was BY FAR the best month I've had with the car for the past 6+ years that I've owned it (and been building it).

It's ok, my tranny could handle it.
 

MLNIUMFLKN

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Ok, I was actually going to ask if you could post pictures if you don't mind.
Did you deal directly with the manufacturer on the redrilling or through a distributor like TireRack? There's a new set of wheels out on TireRack that I really like but (of course :mad: ) they're not available in our bolt pattern.
Thank you for the explanation, MLNIUMFLKN.

I don't have any pics and the car is in the shop right now awaiting a trans rebuild, but I could take some pics when I get it back. The distributor (Wheel Werks) did the redrilling/machining. I'm going to find out exactly how it was done because my explanation was just a guess based on how I remember the wheels looked off of the car.

Do they have that wheel you like in a 5x114.3? Wheel Werks phone# is 800-933-0666 if you wanted to get more info on how it's done.
 

chknhwk

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I don't have any pics and the car is in the shop right now awaiting a trans rebuild, but I could take some pics when I get it back. The distributor (Wheel Werks) did the redrilling/machining. I'm going to find out exactly how it was done because my explanation was just a guess based on how I remember the wheels looked off of the car.

Do they have that wheel you like in a 5x114.3? Wheel Werks phone# is 800-933-0666 if you wanted to get more info on how it's done.

Thanks for all the info. :thumb: There's a few I'm looking at but I don't know what size I want yet. All I know is there's nothing in our bolt pattern I like. I'm too darn picky. LOL
 

somedude_001

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Can the ATX's handle more torque than the MTX's? I just hope my shot-peened, magna-fluxed, heat & cryo treated, radiused, rebuilt trans will hold up.

my ATX handled a **** of a lot of stress and untill recently i did very well. the most power it has had to managed was 17psi in 20deg weather. first gear was a joke, second you could go 3/4 then you could plant your foot in third and the car would squirm all over the road fighting for traction. I was running falcon azeni 615 (225/50/16) which are not designed for cold weather so that is probably part of it. But they were also not designed for 17psi of boost in a 3.2 .

3rd gear failed at WOT on a highway onramp. the cause of the failure is still unknow but the car is still driveable in every other gear 1, 2 and 4

i'm guessing 10psi at around 350whp and I have no idea what 17psi would be at but the tranny lasted a bit over 10K miles, I think the repair will be minor (crosses fingers)

edit: mine was/is a FPS unit.
 

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