More clutch fun......

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SASHO91

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yeah.... right.....

what does this sound like to yall...
i cannot get the tranny into gear while the car is running.... but if i turn the car off, and put it into first, then start the car, i can move the car.... the clutch feels fine when i do this, but, i know that something is up...
the only things i can come up with is, i burnt the clutch up.... (highly doubt, but possible) maybe bent/broke a strap (this is a CM1, or hi rev jr. same thing...) i guess it is possible to do so.... or maybe a PP bolt backed out... as i dont think i used locktite.... but i did torque to specs....that means nothing.

I need to get this fixed asap, as i start college tommorow. I can pull the clutch today, and have her back on the ground tonight, ready to go tommorow, i just didnt want to dig in there if i didnt have to.

any suggestions??
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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dude, AGAIN??

Didnt you just install this one??

Anyways.... it does sound clutch related. Wont know for sure till its apart.
 

SASHO91

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yeah about a month ago.. or so....

and the one before this one, was when i blew the last tranny, then the one before that was about 3 months after i got the car....
ive lost count.....

but hey, atleast i can do this in about 4hrs... allthough i dont think that is something to brag about....

question.... can i mate a 9 puck, to a CM1 PP??

if the strap is in fact broken or bent, I AM putting atleast a 9 puck in.... ****, im thinking even a Centerforce Dual friction....
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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yeah, you could put a 9-puck in with a CM1. Does the CM1 PP have HD straps?

If you do go with the 9-puck, I think youll llike it :)

very dice disk, once you get used to the noise it makes at an idle. :nut:
 

SASHO91

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yes HD straps...

i guess i could just pull the starter and feel for a broken strap... if i cant feel one, then i i know its gotta be the disc...

be back in a few...
 

SASHO91

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well the straps seem to be fine, as well as the bolts, there all in....

so..... with that said.... i will see yall in about 4 hrs... :madflame:
thanks for the help kenny.
 

TYSHO

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Josh, make sure you didn't install the disc the wrong way, when you take it apart. Also, check and make sure that your cable is pulling the lever arm back, far enough to disengage the clutch.

Here goes some other possibilities:

-Damaged splines on the input shaft
-Bent release lever
-Grease on the facings

Also, make sure you have that metal shield installed between the oil pan and bell housing. If not, inspect the PP and make sure it's not rusted up from the rain water entering the bell housing, cause for the plate to stick.
 

Sexymeatball

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What is the purpose of that metal shield just out of curiousity?
 

SuperHO

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Saleen SHO said:
but hey, atleast i can do this in about 4hrs... allthough i dont think that is something to brag about....


:hail: Holy cripes!!! teach me, oh Great Wise One!!!!! :hail:
 

TYSHO

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NotSoSlowSHO said:
its just a "dust" shield. designed to keep road grime out of the bell housing.

It also prevents water from being tossed in the bell housing and rusting out the clutch assembly and other related parts.
 

shomesomesho

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more rubber, more HP.....
Don't leave home without it. It acts as a spacer too.

Without it, on certain clutches (not all of them, mind you) the PP rivets will contact the tranny housing leading to an annoying, repetitive knocking sound when the clutch is engaged. Been there done that. :frown:
 

95SE

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This EXACT same thing just happened to my '92 SHO.. It had a hi-revs clutch. One of the clutch disc-to-hub bolts loosened up and jammed up the pressure plate.

Replaced it with a CM stage 1 with a fidanza flywheel and all it great now :)
 

SASHO91

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well... a couple days later.... and i have yet to get that tranny out....
but i havent tried but a few times.... as i started college and been there most of the day...
and the fact that its just me trying to get that bad boy out of there....
im close, i just need to get another pair of hands to lift the tranny (from the top) while i slide it over.... (not droping the subframe, just dropping the driver side)

anyways, could a problem with the TOB cuase the above problems??
I know since im in there i might as well change clutches, but if the TOB is the problem, i would like to know what to look for, that way im in and out...

thanks for the help guys.... i was really discusted (sp?) this time... i didnt even want to have anything to do with the car, and i started to feel anxious when i thought about working on the car.... it was wierd.... but today is alittle better, and i plan on getting her done today. once i get that tranny moved, its all down hill from there, in a good way...
 

91greensho+

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The clutch disc is either too thich or too thin. Check the flywheel and PP as well for warpage as this would most likely be the cause. It is recomended to have all the parts match, so it is not a good idea to have parts from different companies as the tolerances may be different. When you put it back together, use 242 blue locktight and torque to spec. Make sure that the splins are COMPLETELY clean and do not spray anything on them. If it is the PP, make sure to get a brand new TOB unless you use the same brand PP as before.

Just walked out of my manual transmission class!
 

revhardSHO

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You didnt use locktite on the PP bolts? Sounds like your PP is coming loose. Doubt your PP or flywheel is warped, both can take quite a pounding (save the stock PP straps). Always a good idea to replace your TOB when you have it out.
 

platoribs

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SHO-Chopper's right, I only got 20K miles out of a clutch when the quill sleave started moving around and jiggering the release. Had to switch off whenever not rolling, if rolling I could nudge it into any gear if quick. When they got it apart {I'm not ambitious enough to yet to go after a clutch in the garage} the input shaft was a little wallowed out and they glued the quill on. I really hope it holds together for a while longer. About 30K miles at this time and OK.
 

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