Molding a Headlight Housing

[James Downing]

What does body puddy NOT stick to?

Wax paper?

Sran Wrap?

and especially, will it penetrate wax paper, or sranwrap and stick to what is on the other side?

Thanks

<small>[ March 03, 2004, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: James Downing ]</small>

 

[MotoArts]

Wax paper works, won't bleed through.
What are you trying to do?

 

[James Downing]

Molding puddy around these lights, I figured I would wrap the lights in wax paper, and then puddy in around them, so the lights wouldnt stick to the puddy.

Anyone else have any tips for working with this stuff? This will be my first time, but I dont expect it to be too hard. shrug

<small>[ February 06, 2004, 01:27 PM: Message edited by: James Downing ]</small>

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

If you are using it to fill a gap, i would advise against it. It should be used SPARINGLY on flat surfaces with very minor imperfections.

what about epoxy?

 

[James Downing]

Yeah, I was going to fill in the area around the lights, right now, its open into the back of the headlight mount.

Epoxy? are you talking about glue?

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

No.

Glue is an adhesive. Made to go between two items.

Epoxy is different. Epoxy can be used to form. It has excellent adhesion to the surface it sits on, and can be 'worked' after it is set. You can sand and buff it after it is cured.

There are many, many types of epoxy.

Just be sure to stick to a 2 part Epoxy.
You can adjust the percentage of hardener you want to use. A bit more = harder, but more brittle. A bit less = softer, but more pliable.

I would suggest a 90 minute epoxy. Available at all hardware stores thumb

 

[James Downing]

So I would need a lot of epoxy...

Is there anything else that may be a bit more solid (but still workable, like silly puddy) when forming, that dries into a normal solid, can be sanded, and sticks well??

 

[iselltonsofthings]

Just like the guy that always says "Take it to an exhaust shop" when people ask about a cat back setup.

I'd say, go to your local autobody store. Not autozone, but an actual PPG paints supply store. Ask the guy behind the counter for the correct product made by "Lord Fusor" This stuff is magical for fixing absolutely anything for autobody. They make special mixtures that flex for bumpers. The pictures below are the mixture for fixing fiberglass. Do not use the fiberglass compound on your bumper.

Here is also a link to a previous post about a similar question. Read the very last post. It has all of the information about the Fusor company products.

Topic: fiberglass and urethane repair

Here are also some pictures of the fiberglass mixture by Lord Fusor.

If you have any other questions, drop me a PM. Hope this info answers your question. Scott thumb

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

news flash.

This is not body repair.

He it filling the voids between the headlamp bulbs and the housings. NOT between the headlamp housings and the bumper.

Yes, you will need quite a bit of epoxy.But if you lay a base for it (such as the was paper you mentioned) it can be spread quite thin and be quite strong.

 

[James Downing]

So what is the problem with bpdy puddy? Will it not dry? or will it not hold? shrug

The void may be too large for epoxy, seriously.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

The puddy is not suitable for what you are intending to use it for. It requires a solid surface to rest. And is actually quite soft, and VERY brittle when cured. In addition, the puddy is not designed to be used in thicknesses greater than 1/16 of an inch or so.

Bondo is another option for your project. It is a type of 2 part epoxy as well thumb

 

[Trojan Man]

You have a couple options here.

Don't use puddy or 'bondo' first of all. It will crack and pop apart, guarenteed. You could use a filler such as Duraglass, but that too might break apart.

Use an epoxy like was said above. Most body shops now adays don't even weld much, they use epoxies to 'weld' in new pieces of sheet metal, etc.

What I'd use if I were you is a marine epoxy called West's Systems. You can get it in any good marine-type store, and you will also need fillers for it. There are 3 or 4 types of fillers that you can use, and mixing them with the epoxy will give you whatever consistency you desire. It will be much easier to work with, won't be brittle (it actually stays semi pliable), and you can sand, prime and paint it if you wish.

It is kinda pricey, expect to pay upwards of $60 for a quart with the catalyst and filler, but it should work great for you.

And can you fill me in on exactly what you have going on with those lights... looks pretty interesting

 

[James Downing]

I dont want to spoil the surprise yet, but heres a sneak preview, its not completed by any means.

I need to go out and get about 6 bolts today, and then I will have them all mounted (the left projector is not mounted yet). I will try and get some pictures of it tonight with them on the car.

 

[Trojan Man]

OOoo, keep up updated.

 

[SonicRiot]

whoa... cool lights.

Are you planning on repainting the bumper after this, or just trying to fill in the gap? Why not make a bezel for them if the latter is what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[James Downing]

Okay, got the lights all working and mounted... heres the debeut pictures of her with her 'terminator' mask (can anyone think of a nickname that may be more appropriate?). It uses all stock hookups, and can be interchanged with the regular stock lights at will in about 5-8 minutes.

Here she is!

Now, to clear up any misinterpretation of my earlier posts... the area in red is what I wish to fill and sculpt into a smooth transition between body, and lights.

 

[91taurisho]

Go up to an autobody shop and ask them for a flexible urethane puddy. This will be able to form to what you need it too. It will also be flexible for that plastic you will have it in. I wouldn't think you need to put in more than 1/8 of an inch in there so it will be ok. The only reason they say you shouldn't go over 1/16 of an inch is so it will not crack with body flex. The lights won't flex too much and the flexible stuff will hold up just fine. Good luck and I hope this helps.

P.S. do you plan to put a backing in there to cover the wires from being coated with puddy?

 

[James Downing]

91taurisho:
Go up to an autobody shop and ask them for a flexible urethane puddy. This will be able to form to what you need it too. It will also be flexible for that plastic you will have it in. I wouldn't think you need to put in more than 1/8 of an inch in there so it will be ok. The only reason they say you shouldn't go over 1/16 of an inch is so it will not crack with body flex. The lights won't flex too much and the flexible stuff will hold up just fine. Good luck and I hope this helps.

P.S. do you plan to put a backing in there to cover the wires from being coated with puddy?

Thanks for the info. Yes, the backing was going to be the wax paper, which I would remove after the puddy set.

After reading your post again, I still don't think you understand. At some points in the mold that the puddy must conform to, it will have to be almost 2 inches thick. Now... any ideas??

<small>[ February 08, 2004, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: James Downing ]</small>

 

[James Downing]

Okay guys, my friend brought this idea up to me for how to form/mold the headlights.

You all know the spray foam that is used to insulate houses? It sprays on, and then expands, and dries. I would spray this into the voids, and then, when it is dry, I would cut, and sand it down to the shape I needed, and then cover with something like duraglas?

I dont know how sandable, and how foamy that foam is when its done though... I may have to find some sorta substitute for it, any ideas for spray on foam that is cuttable, and sandable??

<small>[ February 08, 2004, 07:46 PM: Message edited by: James Downing ]</small>

 

[shoinoff95]

I don't have any more insight for you, but I just wanted to say how bad a$$ those lights look!! How is the light output on the road; how much improved over the stock lights? Very good job so far, they look amazing, and the final project will be even better!! thumb