Talyn
Diesel Guy
Wanna do a PCM swap to check if thats the issue with my Gen 2.
Cannot get it to show codes, I think PCM went kaput.
Cannot get it to show codes, I think PCM went kaput.
Michigan member with PCM for my gen 2?
- Thread starter Talyn
- Start date
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SuperHO
Mental Patient
Where ya at in Michigan?
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
northwestern Indiana, southern tip of Lake Michigan? Tim, ye best stay away from guys that play with sheep
Perry
Perry
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SuperHO
Mental Patient
Now now. Perry....you're already talkin my neck of the woods.
Talyn
Diesel Guy
I'm up by mount pleasant.
I'm down state quite a bit as well, but I don't know if guys feel comfortable letting a part out of their sight for a week.
I'm down state quite a bit as well, but I don't know if guys feel comfortable letting a part out of their sight for a week.
Huntervf
Bored now
Mt. Pleasant? Why didn't you come to my BBQ last weekend?
I'm 10 miles west of Mt. Pleasant, halfway between Mt. Pleasant and Remus. Ever heard of Weidman?
That said, I don't have a compatible computer to switch with. But from personal experience with a computer on a 95 ATX that experienced very similar symptoms (that was also bad) I suspect that might be the case.
If you can get it to my shop we can do some exploratory surgery
Edit: Just saw your other thread about the no-run situation. I'm going to offer an educated guess and say bad crank sensor. Much more likely than a bad PCM, and as far as it not spitting codes, you may not have it jumpered right if it's something you're not familiar with. Crank sensor is a PITA to get at, got to tear apart the passenger side of the motor. I've done them. With the age/mileage I'd be worried about crank cancer getting that crank pulley off there.
Here's the million dollar question: Does the tach rise up at all when the car is cranking over? It should at least lift up to a couple hundred RPM or so. The crank sensor drives the tach, so no movement on the tach while the car crank would definitely point to a bad crank sensor. Even if it does move, crank sensor could still be bad but a non-moving tach would be a nail in the coffin.
Bad running/idling can be a combination of cam sensor and MAF sensor.
I'm crazy swamped this week with work, but would be happy to at least look into getting some codes out of it for you.
I'm 10 miles west of Mt. Pleasant, halfway between Mt. Pleasant and Remus. Ever heard of Weidman?
That said, I don't have a compatible computer to switch with. But from personal experience with a computer on a 95 ATX that experienced very similar symptoms (that was also bad) I suspect that might be the case.
If you can get it to my shop we can do some exploratory surgery
Edit: Just saw your other thread about the no-run situation. I'm going to offer an educated guess and say bad crank sensor. Much more likely than a bad PCM, and as far as it not spitting codes, you may not have it jumpered right if it's something you're not familiar with. Crank sensor is a PITA to get at, got to tear apart the passenger side of the motor. I've done them. With the age/mileage I'd be worried about crank cancer getting that crank pulley off there.
Here's the million dollar question: Does the tach rise up at all when the car is cranking over? It should at least lift up to a couple hundred RPM or so. The crank sensor drives the tach, so no movement on the tach while the car crank would definitely point to a bad crank sensor. Even if it does move, crank sensor could still be bad but a non-moving tach would be a nail in the coffin.
Bad running/idling can be a combination of cam sensor and MAF sensor.
I'm crazy swamped this week with work, but would be happy to at least look into getting some codes out of it for you.
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Talyn
Diesel Guy
I was pulling codes right. I've done it before, I just didn't realize it was the same across other ford platforms. I'm spoiled with a scanner on my truck, I can just press a few buttons and do whatever I want on the fly.
I do believe the tach moves. I'll check it again just in case.
The car didn't really start acting really bad until the starter change.
I've seen battery hookups **** PCM's before if there is a draw somewhere in the system and it sparks when you hook the battery up again.
If it comes to tearing half the car apart to fix it, I just don't have the patience to tear that far into it. With the work I've done on it already, it's gave me headaches.
I've been to wiedman many a times.
However, I was gone last weekend. =) I have excuse.
As for any issues, I wouldn't doubt the crank or cam sensor is having some sorta issues.
Hal Effect sensors are not infallible.
I do believe the tach moves. I'll check it again just in case.
The car didn't really start acting really bad until the starter change.
I've seen battery hookups **** PCM's before if there is a draw somewhere in the system and it sparks when you hook the battery up again.
If it comes to tearing half the car apart to fix it, I just don't have the patience to tear that far into it. With the work I've done on it already, it's gave me headaches.
I've been to wiedman many a times.
However, I was gone last weekend. =) I have excuse.
As for any issues, I wouldn't doubt the crank or cam sensor is having some sorta issues.
Hal Effect sensors are not infallible.
Talyn
Diesel Guy
Double checked, the Tach is moving.
Doesn't mean the sensor is good, but its still not firing, so the Cam position sensor could be bad too. Who the **** knows.
Doesn't mean the sensor is good, but its still not firing, so the Cam position sensor could be bad too. Who the **** knows.
Huntervf
Bored now
Well, if you're sure you have the EEC jumpered right to read codes and you get nothing, I'd feel confident in saying the computer is kaput. I had a bad computer on a 95 ATX years ago, car drove okay but it wouldn't run without help until it warmed up, and it wouldn't always spit out codes. Turned out the computer was bad, and at startup the engine wouldn't go into cold/startup cycle; hence why it needed help until it warmed up.
You have a five-speed, so any gen II five-speed computer should work. Or, another trick... empty out the glove box and drop the glove box door (don't need to remove anything, just push the rubber stops out of the way so the door drops down) and you'll see the computer sitting up there. Get up in there and bang on that box if you can with a screw driver or something. I once worked on an ****** with a bad EEC-IV computer, guy had the box to where he could reach it while driving, and if the car acted up he'd just whack the box LOL.
One other thing... since you bought used, not sure if you've even checked the computer behind the glove box. In the event someone put an aftermarket chip in the computer, that chip could be causing problems. The chip simply attaches to the back of the computer at an access port--you'll see it right away if it's there. I chipped my 93 back in 2004, but I started having some starting/idling problems earler this year that I traced back to the chip. With the chip out, it's been running just fine.
Are you around Friday? I might have some time in the evening to swing by. Otherwise my weekend is packed... going to the St. Ignace truck show on Sat then my company is a sponsor at the big country music fest in Midland on Sunday; we'll be there with our NASCARs so I'm relegated to go (not a big country fan). I'll pm you my phone #.
The starter situation has me perplexed. Can't really hook it up wrong without knowing it right away. I did a starter on my ATX earlier this year and I did find there was a new style that used a new wire with a different connection; it basically got rid of the plug connection in favor of a eye & bolt on the starter. Perhaps if you still have the old style there's a problem there?
And a dumb question, but you've checked the terminals at the battery and on the solenoid for corrosion, yes?
You have a five-speed, so any gen II five-speed computer should work. Or, another trick... empty out the glove box and drop the glove box door (don't need to remove anything, just push the rubber stops out of the way so the door drops down) and you'll see the computer sitting up there. Get up in there and bang on that box if you can with a screw driver or something. I once worked on an ****** with a bad EEC-IV computer, guy had the box to where he could reach it while driving, and if the car acted up he'd just whack the box LOL.
One other thing... since you bought used, not sure if you've even checked the computer behind the glove box. In the event someone put an aftermarket chip in the computer, that chip could be causing problems. The chip simply attaches to the back of the computer at an access port--you'll see it right away if it's there. I chipped my 93 back in 2004, but I started having some starting/idling problems earler this year that I traced back to the chip. With the chip out, it's been running just fine.
Are you around Friday? I might have some time in the evening to swing by. Otherwise my weekend is packed... going to the St. Ignace truck show on Sat then my company is a sponsor at the big country music fest in Midland on Sunday; we'll be there with our NASCARs so I'm relegated to go (not a big country fan). I'll pm you my phone #.
The starter situation has me perplexed. Can't really hook it up wrong without knowing it right away. I did a starter on my ATX earlier this year and I did find there was a new style that used a new wire with a different connection; it basically got rid of the plug connection in favor of a eye & bolt on the starter. Perhaps if you still have the old style there's a problem there?
And a dumb question, but you've checked the terminals at the battery and on the solenoid for corrosion, yes?
Talyn
Diesel Guy
I dont' think the starter is hooked up wrong.
I'm just thinking the draw that is in the system shocked the PCM when the battery was hooked back up.
No chip in it though. I'm second owner, and previous owner is a friend. I didn't do the starter on it, garage near here did. He's a competent mechanic as well, I trust him if I had needed to recommend somebody.
The car has always idled oddly since I purchased it, but it would be random.
After the starter it supposedly never idled properly and did other weird things.
If I knew how easy the computer was to remove, I'd check it over to see if it had some issues.
I have to go over to Midland in the morning. I'm up in Lake Station though, not to far from ya.
The battery was unhooked for a bit on the car before I hooked it back up today.
I should try and pull codes again on it.
I'm just thinking the draw that is in the system shocked the PCM when the battery was hooked back up.
No chip in it though. I'm second owner, and previous owner is a friend. I didn't do the starter on it, garage near here did. He's a competent mechanic as well, I trust him if I had needed to recommend somebody.
The car has always idled oddly since I purchased it, but it would be random.
After the starter it supposedly never idled properly and did other weird things.
If I knew how easy the computer was to remove, I'd check it over to see if it had some issues.
I have to go over to Midland in the morning. I'm up in Lake Station though, not to far from ya.
The battery was unhooked for a bit on the car before I hooked it back up today.
I should try and pull codes again on it.
Huntervf
Bored now
It's pretty easy, just a little tough to get to. The harness bolts into the computer on the passenger side firewall. Actually, it shouldn't be too far from where your EEC plugs are. Trace the big harness up, and there it is. Hardest part is just wiggling wrenches in there. Once loose, it comes out inside behind the glove box.
Tomorrow looks like a decent day; might be a good run for the Mustang. I should be out at 3, give me a call or text with your addy.
Tomorrow looks like a decent day; might be a good run for the Mustang. I should be out at 3, give me a call or text with your addy.
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Talyn
Diesel Guy
Thanks for running over and helping. Now just to get a computer. I'd post the ad, but its on the tool box and I forgot which one I needed. haha.
