MAP sensor dirty. Why? Also: late downshift, remote start, backup cam

[Ciano Mont]

I have a 2015 SHO. 43k miles. Scroll to end for primary question here...

Lately I have been having a TON of problems.

Late downshifting/engine braking. When coasting to a stop, I can feel the car engine braking because it either wont downshift, or wont disengage and just coast. Then once it finally downshifts, it kinda jerks forward, especially if I am already braking. Not fun. Also sometimes jerks specifically when I am accelerating and then let off gas quickly. Shifts well, no slippage.

Remote start not working most of the time. Sometimes the lights flash twice and nothing happens. Sometimes they won't flash at all. Sometimes the car makes a click sound after the lights flash. Sometimes the car tries to start, but it stops the ignition process quickly. Sometimes it will actually start, and then TURN BACK OFF. It's wild.

Backup camera doesnt work sometimes. Sometimes it is upside down, sometimes the parking guide lines dont show

Issues with SYNC itself. Issues connecting to my phone via bluetooth. It performs maintenance often lately. Navigation faults. Occasional just blanks black screen, while all other features still continue to work.

Cruise control buttons pressed into the steering wheel. This one could easily be user error, but the left steering wheel controls have been pressed completely into the steering wheel. I can still use them if I put my fingers inside the holes and press the buttons, but is this normal? Do I just press the buttons way too hard? The audio controls, which I use MUCH more often, are still perfectly fine. I am thinking they just need to be popped back into place but I am not sure how to push them back up through the back or something.

I think that's all... for now. It may seem like I let all these problems pile up, but they actually all started happening in the last couple months, right around the time it started getting super hot outside. I live in Houston, TX btw. Temps usually in the 90s with high humidity.

Anyway, on to the main topic of this...

I read somewhere that the shifting issues could be resolved by cleaning maf sensors. I know a bit about maf sensors, but I just learned about MAP sensors because I couldn't find a maf sensor anywhere on the intake system. So I ended up cleaning the sensor on the intake right by the airbox, the sensor on the intake by the oil cap, and the sensor on the top of the intake manifold.

The sensor on top of the intake manifold was visibly dirty. I haven't even driven the car since I cleaned them, so I don't even know if my endeavors helped, but my main question here is this:

Is it a cause for concern that the MAP sensor on the intake manifold got dirty in the first place? Could it have come from the engine instead of the intake? Is there a leak or something letting dirt in? The other sensors earlier in the intake system were not noticeably dirty at all. Changed the filter at 40k with the oil. I usually change the oil after 10k miles. The shop recommends 7500, the car says oil is usually around 30% after 10k so I figure why not.

If anyone has any advice about any of these issues, I would greatly appreciate it.

P.S. The trans dipstick cap area was VERY dirty. I sprayed tons of carb cleaner all over it and checked the fluid. It doesn't smell bad but it doesnt seem perfectly clean. The maintenance schedule for this car says change atf waaaaaay later in its life. Is this generally the best practice? It was still full.

 

[SaveMelMac]

Our cars don’t have a maf sensor. The map sensor is in the intake track and the pcv system recirculates through the intake manifold so it’s reasonable to say it will get dirty. A catch can most likely will help this along with stopping build up on the back of the valves.

 

[luigisho]

If you can do it your self or afford to get it done, I would consider changing the PTU fluid as first priority and the rest of the drivetrain fluids. Especially if you notice they are funky

Also do you have a warranty still in effect? I would get everything to the shop if you do-- and maybe consider an extended one backed by Ford with an online discounter. There is a warranty checklist for expired factory warranty inspections required to get an extended one you can look at to make sure your car will pass before you take it in.

 

[GHNorth]

How old is your battery? A weak battery can produce a slew of odd electronics issues. I had symptoms associated with my infotainment system, A/C, remote start when my battery was going out. The lead/acid battery is only good for a couple years. The battery in my '13 was replace twice before I bought in in 2015, and once since (with an AGM battery.) I keep it on a battery tender when parked in my garage.

 

[76FoMoCo]

^^^^^ This if your battery is low you will have a ton of these problems. You can check it with a volt meter and it should be around 12.8 to 13.0 if its at 12.6 or less time to change it! test it after it has sat all night.
as for the down shift some can be battery related and some could be a drag in the system. when was the last time the ptu fluid was changed?

 

[Johnbigdog]

To your remote start question.
The car flashes the lights twice to acknowledge that it received the command from the key fob to remote start.

Since it's not honking the horn afterwards or during, the system is getting a third press of the fob to cancel the remote start, or your too quick with the remote start button presses. It is also posible that your to far away for the fob to talk to the car.

I have found a deliberate maybe 1 second delay between the first and second remote start button will fix the no flash of the lights and no remote start.

If you dont see the lights, press the remote start button one more time.

The camera upside down sounds like a bad camera. If the camera loses its configuration it will go upside down. The parking aid lines are also a function of the camera itself.

Your steering wheel air bag is removed by using a small Allen wrench (3mm or so?) through two holes in the steering wheel. They are behind the wheel. You are using the allen wrench to push against two springs that hold the air bag in. One you disengage the springs the air bag pops out. Disconect the two connectors, then stored the airbag with the Ford emblem UP! if it goes off, it wont turn into a projectile. Once you undo the center steering wheel bolt, make sure the clock spring doesnt rotate along with the steering shaft.

There are small screws torx bits that hold everything together in the steering wheel.

Your apim problems, if no dtcs sounds like a bad apim. Perform a master reset though the settings menu and do not pair your phone. If it's still going blank, you can go to a dealership to see if there are any updates for the APIM that may help with everything. The dealership can update the Customer Interface Protocol and Vehilce Interface Potocol sides of the APIM. You can only update the C.I.P. side from the Ford owners account site.

Mercon LV (our transmission oil) gets dark/black really quick. If it doesnt smell burnt, it's ok. If you want to flush the fluid to make yourself feel better. Do it to it, it wont hurt.

Depending how aggressive you drive, the car will engine brake to help with deceleration. This is just a speculation. I believe its mentioned in the Owners manual.

I agree to have your battery tested. You can also disconect the terminals and clean the battery with baking soda water and the a terminal cleaner brush.

 

[Ciano Mont]

How old is your battery? A weak battery can produce a slew of odd electronics issues. I had symptoms associated with my infotainment system, A/C, remote start when my battery was going out. The lead/acid battery is only good for a couple years. The battery in my '13 was replace twice before I bought in in 2015, and once since (with an AGM battery.) I keep it on a battery tender when parked in my garage.

Battery is less than a year old

 

[Ciano Mont]

^^^^^ This if your battery is low you will have a ton of these problems. You can check it with a volt meter and it should be around 12.8 to 13.0 if its at 12.6 or less time to change it! test it after it has sat all night.
as for the down shift some can be battery related and some could be a drag in the system. when was the last time the ptu fluid was changed?

Alright. Guess I'll test it anyway. It's less than a year old.

 

[Ciano Mont]

To your remote start question.
The car flashes the lights twice to acknowledge that it received the command from the key fob to remote start.

Since it's not honking the horn afterwards or during, the system is getting a third press of the fob to cancel the remote start, or your too quick with the remote start button presses. It is also posible that your to far away for the fob to talk to the car.

I have found a deliberate maybe 1 second delay between the first and second remote start button will fix the no flash of the lights and no remote start.

If you dont see the lights, press the remote start button one more time.

The camera upside down sounds like a bad camera. If the camera loses its configuration it will go upside down. The parking aid lines are also a function of the camera itself.

Your steering wheel air bag is removed by using a small Allen wrench (3mm or so?) through two holes in the steering wheel. They are behind the wheel. You are using the allen wrench to push against two springs that hold the air bag in. One you disengage the springs the air bag pops out. Disconect the two connectors, then stored the airbag with the Ford emblem UP! if it goes off, it wont turn into a projectile. Once you undo the center steering wheel bolt, make sure the clock spring doesnt rotate along with the steering shaft.

There are small screws torx bits that hold everything together in the steering wheel.

Your apim problems, if no dtcs sounds like a bad apim. Perform a master reset though the settings menu and do not pair your phone. If it's still going blank, you can go to a dealership to see if there are any updates for the APIM that may help with everything. The dealership can update the Customer Interface Protocol and Vehilce Interface Potocol sides of the APIM. You can only update the C.I.P. side from the Ford owners account site.

Mercon LV (our transmission oil) gets dark/black really quick. If it doesnt smell burnt, it's ok. If you want to flush the fluid to make yourself feel better. Do it to it, it wont hurt.

Depending how aggressive you drive, the car will engine brake to help with deceleration. This is just a speculation. I believe its mentioned in the Owners manual.

I agree to have your battery tested. You can also disconect the terminals and clean the battery with baking soda water and the a terminal cleaner brush.

I'll give the reset a shot. Also will be investigating battery issues.

I know the car gets used to how I drive, but I do not drive aggressively (anymore) and it honestly feels almost like it is in sport mode sometimes. It can be extra responsive and clunky. This would make sense if I was hot dogging the car around, like I kind of did back when I first got it, but lately I've been driving like a grandma. The engine braking stopped for a couple days and now it's back. Makes me think the dirty map sensor was causing it and now its dirt again? I might just pull it out to check again.

Do you agree with changing the transfer case fluid, as has been recommended here?

 

[Johnbigdog]

I'll give the reset a shot. Also will be investigating battery issues.

I know the car gets used to how I drive, but I do not drive aggressively (anymore) and it honestly feels almost like it is in sport mode sometimes. It can be extra responsive and clunky. This would make sense if I was hot dogging the car around, like I kind of did back when I first got it, but lately I've been driving like a grandma. The engine braking stopped for a couple days and now it's back. Makes me think the dirty map sensor was causing it and now its dirt again? I might just pull it out to check again.

Do you agree with changing the transfer case fluid, as has been recommended here?

I cant say your trans issue is a problem or not over the web. Sometime it best to bring it a dealer or shop with some expirience. I would do some home work to see if they have a SHO in used or new inventory to compare too.

Engine performance and transmission concerns can be related, however if your MAP was really that bad, you would be having more problems than just your transmission concerns driveability wise.

As for your P.T.U. it's a good idea to change the oil, however the only way I could see it causing a problem is if there was large enough debris for it to lock up. If that was the case, you would see a spectacular failure or be hearing noises by now.

The P.T.U. is a 90° gear box that is splined to the front differential carrier. The right halfshaft passes though the PTU and doesn't conect to the ptu mechanically.

If the car is moving, the ptu is driving the drive shaft. If the ptu locks up, the front driveline will also lock up too.

I cant specifically agree that your ptu is at fult.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

If you have not changed the PTU fluid yet Do so immediately. If not you will end up having to replace PTU and as someone who did it recently in the drive way in FL I can tell you it’s a ****** job. The design of the PTU isn’t great and is in a heat soaked position causing the fluid to get excessively hot. I have made some changes to my new set up that helped. If you want I can explain further.

Next test the battery for amperage. Mine had perfect voltage but one of the poles was bad and having little to no amperage coming through.