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Greg Futral

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My 2010 appears to be a money pit. In February, I took it to a local shop. The guy said it would be $2000. I go to pick it up, and Joel told me it was $4000. Rack and pinion that required programming, wheel bearing and hub assemblies, control arm bushings, and radiator hose. I drove better afterwards, but now I'm questioning if I really needed the rack. A couple of weeks ago, I took it to the dealership to get a sunroof leak done. Three hundred samolians. Now it needs a SR91 Link, a Front Stabilizer bar, rear brakes, which it does, rear shocks, brake pedal switch to the tune of 2,000 clams. Thursday it was idling rough. It needs an injector, an intake manifold gasket, plugs, a catalytic converter for $3400. So ten thousand dollars of repair in ten months.
 

kryptto

The Best Thing About Cars... ones in my mirror.
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My 2010 appears to be a money pit. In February, I took it to a local shop. The guy said it would be $2000. I go to pick it up, and Joel told me it was $4000. Rack and pinion that required programming, wheel bearing and hub assemblies, control arm bushings, and radiator hose. I drove better afterwards, but now I'm questioning if I really needed the rack. A couple of weeks ago, I took it to the dealership to get a sunroof leak done. Three hundred samolians. Now it needs a SR91 Link, a Front Stabilizer bar, rear brakes, which it does, rear shocks, brake pedal switch to the tune of 2,000 clams. Thursday it was idling rough. It needs an injector, an intake manifold gasket, plugs, a catalytic converter for $3400. So ten thousand dollars of repair in ten months.
I truly feel your fury, these cars are engineered for one purpose - keep Ford making money on parts and possibly labor. However all manufacturers have this in mind - cars like our microwave minute society is forced to either pay one way or the other - buying new. With all these computers and components monitoring and poor mtb failure means you will be caught in a cycle. The manufacturers also know turbos add much needed power for mpg on underpowered cars like my wife's Honda Civic turbo. Turbos complicate and add a big cost.

Everyone here will warn about over maintenance to keep the vehicle running trouble free as long as possible.

Good luck - I don't do as much work as I used too which makes me more apoplectic in my decisions. If possible and your capable get a lower cost daily driver and keep this car to work on yourself.

GL
 

Ta2dResqr

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Unfortunately, the best thing you can do is get some tools and software. Reprogramming the rack and pinion could be done with ForScan. Wheel bearings/hub assemblies and radiator hose are easy enough. I have not done control arm bushings. Sunroof leak is probably drains and can be blown out. Not sure what an sr91 link is. Sway bar link? If so, those are easy. Rear brakes, rear shocks, and a brake pedal switch are easy. Stabilizer bar can be a bit of a pain. Injectors, manifold gasket, plugs and a convertor are fairly easy.

The other added benefit is you can save money with aftermarket parts or replace with upgrades. PPE downpipes for the convertor. Whiteline for the sway bar. Change the temperature range and gap for the plugs. All 6 injectors while you are in there. PP pads and rotors. YouTube and the forums will get you a long way and save you a lot on labor.
 

kryptto

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Unfortunately, the best thing you can do is get some tools and software. Reprogramming the rack and pinion could be done with ForScan. Wheel bearings/hub assemblies and radiator hose are easy enough. I have not done control arm bushings. Sunroof leak is probably drains and can be blown out. Not sure what an sr91 link is. Sway bar link? If so, those are easy. Rear brakes, rear shocks, and a brake pedal switch are easy. Stabilizer bar can be a bit of a pain. Injectors, manifold gasket, plugs and a convertor are fairly easy.

The other added benefit is you can save money with aftermarket parts or replace with upgrades. PPE downpipes for the convertor. Whiteline for the sway bar. Change the temperature range and gap for the plugs. All 6 injectors while you are in there. PP pads and rotors. YouTube and the forums will get you a long way and save you a lot on labor.
To @Ta2dResqr here is a Forscan thread for doing that programming https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24418
 

luigisho

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This stuff is what turned us older SHO owners into DIY repair people. Necessity because it needs a bunch of stuff. The newer cars are much more expensive due to cost of parts/labor and complexity. When people ask me about buying cars I tell them if you plan to own beyond a few years/100k miles think about avoiding awd, turbo charging, and excessive electronic options. Just more complexity and more stuff to break. My '14 5.0 F150 has 175k with just brakes, tires, fluids/filters so far.
 

Majestic

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Is this shop telling you those things NEED to be replaced, or that due to mileage or owner's manual recommendations that they SHOULD be replaced? I've had shops try to upsell me on parts that I had already replaced.

Most of the stuff on your list is not that difficult to do yourself.
 

Greg Futral

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Is this shop telling you those things NEED to be replaced, or that due to mileage or owner's manual recommendations that they SHOULD be replaced? I've had shops try to upsell me on parts that I had already replaced.

Most of the stuff on your list is not that difficult to do yourself.
I almost flunked wood shop. I can remember the teacher's carotid arteries bulging. The cat was recommended, and I was told the rack needed to be done. Why did I need an engine air filter? Why the oil change? $20 plugs? ad nauseum. I need to find someone I can rely on. Thanks.
 

luigisho

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You can do the easy to reach stuff yourself like plugs and filter. Oil is 50/50 as far as do you want to get dirty and transport oil to a parts store to dump, or pay someone. The rest is complicated and you should decide on a case by case basis.

A good mechanic who isn't out to max out your finances, is as important as other skilled people-- like a skilled dentist. Find a great one and follow them wherever they practice when possible. Good luck Greg. I imagine I will be in that spot again at some time.

I learned from: this foum, write ups, and youtube videos. I'm not a natural but the cash outflow was too much back then.
 

Greg Futral

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You can do the easy to reach stuff yourself like plugs and filter. Oil is 50/50 as far as do you want to get dirty and transport oil to a parts store to dump, or pay someone. The rest is complicated and you should decide on a case by case basis.

A good mechanic who isn't out to max out your finances, is as important as other skilled people-- like a skilled dentist. Find a great one and follow them wherever they practice when possible. Good luck Greg. I imagine I will be in that spot again at some time.

I learned from: this foum, write ups, and youtube videos. I'm not a natural but the cash outflow was too much back then.
Wise indeed. Thank you,
 

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