lowering my SHO

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pitaSHO

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I just bought a set of Eibachs and am looking at a set of Tokicos to go with them. I was not wanting to lower the car a lot and so the Eibachs I bought lower the front an inch and the rear a half inch. I have been reading some of the posts about lowering, and there is a lot of talk about camber and tie rods and other such things. With the springs I have is this something I still need to address, or is the lowering minimal enough so that a basic alignment will work? shrug I am not looking at autocross or even racing the SHO. My goals for my SHO include handling and exhaust, so my mods do not need to be real involved. I would appreciate the input. :)
 

Chris Benvie

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since your already in there, you might as well do your tierod ends, wheel bearing, sway bar endlinks, strut rod bushings upper strut mounts..

theres a whole host of them...

check out www.shotimes.com for more info
 

shoinoff95

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You could always check up underneath your car to see if any of the bushings are cracked or worn. Check for play in any of your endlinks, tie rods, and strut rods like stated above. You might also want to consider new subframe bushings as well, mine were pretty worn and I have a '95. Are you getting any squeaking or clunking sounds coming from the suspension? You will need to get new front strut bearings when replacing a suspension and maybe new spring isolators. Your camber should not be very far off from stock and with the eibachs, they sometimes tend to raise the rearend up since the factory springs like to sag. But just get an alignment done and you should be fine. :D
 

pitaSHO

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The car is still pretty tight. No clunking or other such sounds. It just takes the turns as graceful as a blue whale. Thanks for the input. :)
 

STRider

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sho-tym

I replace the suspension on my 95 MTX in April with Eibach springs & Tokico struts. My suspension was completely worn. I believe everything was original with 100,000 miles on it. I also replaced the strut mounts & bearings, sub-frame bushings, coil spring insulators, end links and lots of hardware. The front was lowered a little (maybe 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch) and the back was actually raised 1 inch. If your rear springs are not sagging that bad, your rear may not be raised as much. Any way, the shop that aligned my car did not have any problems and did not have to do anything out of the ordinary to align it. The only extra cost option was having them drill out the spot welds on the strut towers so the camber could be adjusted.
 

PAracer

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If you can foot the bill, you would love the feel of having all new suspension components.
Springs, struts, strut mounts, bushings, tie rods. A thicker rear sway bar is also a great addition.
 

GR8WYT

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I redid my suspension earlier this year too and I highly recommend replacing all of the wear parts. Bushings, connectors, mounting cups, bearings etc. Also, I added the GTP rear control arms, since they offer way more adjustability and are cheap to boot. The front alignment was a snap, the rear was another story.

The one thing I think a lot of us have learned about these cars is that what works on one doesn't necessarily work on another. This is because of the tolerance variations built in to the manufacture of the body and the mounting of the suspension. I lost 1/4" of height on the rear when I added the Eibachs but I would not have been able to get the alignment right because the control arm mounting box is not centered on the car; it is actually about 5/8" to the left. (I've owned the car since new and it has never been in a wreck.) There was not enough adjustibility in the stock control arms to account for it. It also partly explains why I was suffering from excessive rear tire wear as well.

Give yourself a treat. You won't believe your car with a fresh suspension.
 

SolidState

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that has got me all excited...I am planning ona complete suspension overhaul in the spring...

struts, mounting hardware, springs, bushings...endlinks

then later on, new tie rods all around, new wheel bearings

The car is gonig to be new again...
 

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