Lowered Springs = Have to do Camber?

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rfiltz

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Just wondering if you go to Eibach's, do you always have to do the spot weld cut for alignment or get the adjustable top plates? Will the Moog CC's do the same (opposite direction) if you don't cut the front coils just right?
 

GR8WYT

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Cutting spot welds

That was my experience with the Eibach/Tokico combo. The tech that did mine used the proper spot weld cutter. It makes the job super easy and is much less of a mess than trying to bash 'em out with a cold chisel.

I also installed the SS strut tower brace at the same time so the original camber plates were not re-used.
 

SHOman24v

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why bash it out when it can be drilled..... took me like 30 mins to do all of them then cost me 70 bucks to align it
 

Bizzy

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I have Eibachs on mine and there was no need to drill out the plate on mine. I have no alignment issues what-so-ever. I may be one of the only ones out there that believe in keeping it in tact as long as possible. Mine will stay untouched until it absolutely has to be done.
 

AutoSHO

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There is no reason to fear drilling the spot welds. The only reason they are there is to preserve the factory settings during assembly and use. If you're really concerned you can have them rewelded, but they are not necessary to maintain structural integrity.
 

SuperG

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What exactly do you drill or cut? Any pics of the spots you are talking about?

Thanks!
 

AutoSHO

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Here ya go:

strut%20tower.jpg
 

SuperG

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Aha! And those are the camber plates?

What do eccentrics look like? Sorry if I ask too many questions, but I am getting ready to perform a whole slew of suspension work...Thanks for the help!
 

shobote

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The alignment settings depend on what you have planned for the car; if it is for the street only and you want maximum wear out of the tires, stay close to stock spec's. If you want to run occasional events and have more aggressive cornering on the street as well, you can run 2 or even 3 degrees negative camber, however the car may "walk" around a bit on uneven surfaces at highway speeds, and tires will wear more rapidly on the inside portion; (that is, of course dependant upon on your driving habits, i.e., if you often corner aggressively on the street and wear out the outer shoulders anyway, they will actually last longer). I ran 2 degrees negative for autocross and had no problems on the street on my former racer/street car.
 

SuperG

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Yes, I am setting her up for racing autocross and road coarses. Had an autocross (Solo II) event last weekend...Texas World Speedway May 15 and 16...Thanks!
 

Nook

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SuperG said:
Aha! And those are the camber plates?

What do eccentrics look like? Sorry if I ask too many questions, but I am getting ready to perform a whole slew of suspension work...Thanks for the help!

The specprod.com front camber set up, replaces the top strut mount, and has a removable center mount disk for the ttrut top. These little removable disks that come with them, ahve the mounting hole offset in different ranges, so you can just tak the nut off, put in another disk with a different hole, and put the nut back on to adjsut the alignment after that. That way, you dont have to drill the plates out at all,a nd can make onthe fly adjustments later if you need to without having to drill and weld again.

The 'eccentrics' are little silver dollar sized center plates that haev the holes in them, youc an even make your own with a piece of round metal and a drill if the ones that come with it don't get precise enough for you.

N :D
 

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