My alternator went three days ago. I went to the library and copied the necessary pages out of the service manual for replacement and also sought additional knowledge in the search section. I have managed to remove the accessory belt and all the bolts for the alternator except for the one behind the idler pulley on the lower left. I've tried a 9/16 wrench to no avail. I've tried but can't fit a socket behind the idler pulley. I've tried to loosen the bolt for the idler pulley to remove but have not had success with that either. Should I try a metric wrench? I'm completely stuck and afraid to go any further for risk of stripping the bolt. Any suggestions would help. Thanx.
Lower Left Alternator Bolt behind Idler Pulley
- Thread starter baggio421
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Ishodu
SHO Member
Yes tyr a metric wrench. All the nuts and bolts on the SHO are metric. 9/16 is close to 14mm. but it will be a bit sloppy on it. Try a 14mm.
shobikes
New Member
If you take a 14mm box-end wrench (I used a LONG Husky brand) to that nut in the center of the idler, it should come loose. In fact, it should be loose to detension your belts...anyway, take that nut all the way off, and the idler should slide off too. This will give you access to the idler bracket bolts, which upon removal will gain you access to the bolt you need.
You removed the battery, right?
You removed the battery, right?
The battery has been removed. Unfortunately, the previous owner really neglected the car and there is a lot of rust in the inner part of the engine. I tried removing the the battery bracket but the bolts just won't budge. I've blasted them quite a few times with WD40. I'm gonna give the 14mm wrench a shot tomorrow. What a project this turned out to be.
Well, I was finally able to get the thing out. I had to remove the idler pulley to get to that last bolt. 14mm box wrench was the ticket. Thanx again. This site is the bomb.
Tip for all those doing this for the first time. Take off the idler pulley. I should have focused on removing it immediately.
Tip for all those doing this for the first time. Take off the idler pulley. I should have focused on removing it immediately.
rangerj
Active Member
Baggio421,
While you are in there you "may as well" remove the entire idler pulley mounting bracket. Then remove the "jack-screw" that raises and lowers the idler pulley to adjust tension. The screw is held in on top by a "C" (some say E) clip.
Remove the "C" clip and then unscrew the "jack-screw" out of the pulley mount. Now clean the rust off of the threads of the jack-screw with a wire brush (bench grinder wire brush works best).
When it is clean of all the rust coat it librally with anti-sieze compound and reassemble the pulley mount. Put a light coat of anti-sieze compound on the alternator bolts when you put it back together.
You will find it much easier to make adjustments after you do this. Up here in the "rust belt" you will find that anti-sieze compound can be your best friend. Especially use it on any bolt that threads into aluminum, especially spark plugs.
As a side note, almost every nut and bolt on the SHO is metric. There are a few odd things that are SAE, but very few.
I think you will find that even the simplist jobs can turn into a "project" when you are working on older cars. Hang in there bud!
rangerj
While you are in there you "may as well" remove the entire idler pulley mounting bracket. Then remove the "jack-screw" that raises and lowers the idler pulley to adjust tension. The screw is held in on top by a "C" (some say E) clip.
Remove the "C" clip and then unscrew the "jack-screw" out of the pulley mount. Now clean the rust off of the threads of the jack-screw with a wire brush (bench grinder wire brush works best).
When it is clean of all the rust coat it librally with anti-sieze compound and reassemble the pulley mount. Put a light coat of anti-sieze compound on the alternator bolts when you put it back together.
You will find it much easier to make adjustments after you do this. Up here in the "rust belt" you will find that anti-sieze compound can be your best friend. Especially use it on any bolt that threads into aluminum, especially spark plugs.
As a side note, almost every nut and bolt on the SHO is metric. There are a few odd things that are SAE, but very few.
I think you will find that even the simplist jobs can turn into a "project" when you are working on older cars. Hang in there bud!
rangerj
GonadsAndStrife
New Member
This is on an ATX, so the pulley is just mounted solidly. The ATX uses a single serpentine belt that has a spring tensioner, unlike the MTX's (archaic) 2-belt, mechanical tension system.
rangerj
Active Member
Nevermind! I keep forgetting that they put ATXs in the SHO. I understand that Ford did that in order to comply with the federal laws regarding the disabled and the handicapped. rangerj
shobikes
New Member
"...federal laws regarding the disabled and the handicapped."
-chuckle-
-chuckle chuckle-
-giggle-
lol
<small>[ November 07, 2003, 08:48 AM: Message edited by: shobikes ]</small>
-chuckle-
-chuckle chuckle-
-giggle-
lol
<small>[ November 07, 2003, 08:48 AM: Message edited by: shobikes ]</small>
rangerj
Active Member
The comment was intended to be "tongue in cheek". I'm glad somebody saw it for what it was intended to be. I do hope no one was offended. wink rangerj
DHMag
Free At Last
when anti-seize isnt available, i always have antifreeze on hand. dip the bolt in it, slide it in the hole. does the same job, without the mess.
shobikes
New Member
While you have the idler off, you can pry the idler bearing cover off using a razor blade at the edge of it, and repack the bearing with high-speed bearing grease. This may lengthen the service life of your idler pulleys, and prevent the ever-unpleasant seized idler bearing...
Similar threads
