Low rpm sputter 92 MTX

[Sirtimothy92]

Just had to replace the rubber hose that goes from the t-stat housing to the little bypass housing right next to it.
That was a real fun couple days. (Can only work on it after i get home from my 8-5)so thats all tight no more coolant leak yayyyy.

BUT!!! Now the car sputters usually in low speed like from a stop but sometime normal cruising speed and mostly usually in the lower rpm. Ive tried gassing through it but it just stays through the whole rpm band. If i let off it kinda catches itself and then im good to rip through all the gears. No check engine light.

Ive got all my sensors plugged back in. Vaccum leak maybe?

The car sounds like a Subaru when its doing its sputtering thing. Dont know if this will sound familiar to anyone. OH and 1 time when i washed my engine. (I know I know) I got water on something and it did something similar but that was more like a misfire thing but like in a day it cleares up. My engine is not wet or anything and this has more of a buck kind of and is intermittent but temds to do it from a stop every time. Im gonna see if i can pull any codes tmrw but does anyone know just from hearing this whats up with my baby? Sorry for the long post i just need some help thanks guys.

 

[rubydist]

Do the jumper wire and pull the codes to see what is stored there. Lots of codes can be set without having the check engine light come on. That will help us help you.

 

[Sirtimothy92]

Do the jumper wire and pull the codes to see what is stored there. Lots of codes can be set without having the check engine light come on. That will help us help you.

Got it will be doing that today

 

[Sirtimothy92]

So i believe im getting a 225 and 556 code. I think. The code reading confuses me. also when checking stuff out underneath I saw this... What wire goes to that connecter because I cant find a stray one from above or below and do you think this could be my problem?

 

[rubydist]

There are usually 1 or 2 unused connectors in that area, so that is not likely the issue.

Did you do the "key on engine off" way to pull codes? That is what we are looking for. The 225 will not show up when you pull the codes unless you do the "key on engine running" test. In my experience the engine running test is only useful after you have eliminated all the codes in the engine off test.

The codes are displayed like this: currently occurring codes, currently occurring codes, a single separator flash, stored codes, stored codes. That single separator flash confuses a lot of people. If you double check and are still not sure, take a little video of the light blinking and post it, and we can decipher it for you.

 

[Sirtimothy92]

There are usually 1 or 2 unused connectors in that area, so that is not likely the issue.

Did you do the "key on engine off" way to pull codes? That is what we are looking for. The 225 will not show up when you pull the codes unless you do the "key on engine running" test. In my experience the engine running test is only useful after you have eliminated all the codes in the engine off test.

The codes are displayed like this: currently occurring codes, currently occurring codes, a single separator flash, stored codes, stored codes. That single separator flash confuses a lot of people. If you double check and are still not sure, take a little video of the light blinking and post it, and we can decipher it for you.

Ok so my current codes are 556

My stored codes are 122, 157, 219, 542, 543, 556

 

[Sirtimothy92]

After my t- stat repair I forgot to plug in the maf and tps maybe so idk if thats for the 122 and 157. I didnt do anything with the spout connection though. One thing i also noticed when I was doing the koer test was one of my spark plug wires , the middle driver side, was arcing toward the outside lip edge of the coil park near where the plug connection to it is. And im pretty sure the fuel pump codes have always kind of been there. Should i clear the codes and see what come back on?

 

[luigisho]

YEs. Clear everything out and see what comes back.

 

[rubydist]

Yes, because it won't run right with the mafs disconnected and will set codes for that. Now that is fixed, so let's start again.

Also, the arcing plug wire needs to be fixed - that only gets worse with time and at higher power levels.

The fuel pump code will be set every time the engine stalls and can be ignored on this engine.

 

[Sirtimothy92]

So I fixed the coil pack with some electrical tape i tried putting a dap of epoxy where it was arching but it didnt help but the tape stopped it. gonna find a rubber o ring or something to use instead for a more legit cure but for now this will do. I also unplugged and plugged back in the spout connector and it seemed good but just wanted to be sure. After i did that I took it for a spin and everything is running good like it should. Im gonna pull codes tmrw so we will see. Thanks guys for the help and quick replys i appreciate you.

 

[Sirtimothy92]

Also is it normal for the fuel pump to have a very high pitch whine when operating most people cant hear it cuz its so high but i defanitly can And Ive heard its a sign of fuel pump on its way out

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I've had fuel pumps groan for years without them failing.

Make sure you tightened the clamp holding the air hose on the throttle body.

 

[Sirtimothy92]

I know this was my old post but i forgot to say what fixed my problem. It was the coil pack and the bad coil pack was actually causing the spout connection code to be thrown out. Kinda weird i know but ya had to give some resolution to my issues as well as if it isnt known already that a bad coil pack can cause that code to pop up