Looooog crank! help

[YAHTEC]

the old 94 has a really long crank when sitting like 20mins-7hours anytime after that or overnight she fires right up. what could this be? replaced the plugs/wires just recently and did a induction clean using the machine at work and still nothing. new battery, just to rule out anything like that she turns over just fine not slow or anything that is normal... I was told that it could be the IAC or Fuel Pump or something like that, what do you guys think? I need help because this is so frustrating and embarrasing.... mostly when people comment on how nice it is lol...

thanks for the help

,Charlie

 

[wood_e]

Fuel pump check valve possibly... check your fuel pressure

 

[YAHTEC]

the regulator is fine, I check that when I had the guage on it because it jumped in PSI way high like 44 or so. But the pressure drops to nothing overnight, but then thats when its easiest to start for me which makes no sense to me...


btw, the car starts at WOT and ocasionally I will get a loud pop, kinda like a backfire... it sounds like a balloon popping...

 

[ohfosho]

next time, if it doesnt start inlike 2 seconds of cranking...you know its going to have to crank longer, stop, turn the key back off, and then back on to run again (not starting), and then maybe twice more, and then try to start...if no problems, then it is almost garrenteed your pump is getting weaker, or that check ball.

it is most likely the coil pack though, they will do that when they are tired and hot. check for cracks etc...and run your engine codes too, that might tell you.

 

[YAHTEC]

i'll run a scan on the codes tommorow at work, but the CK vrrooom light isn't on...
i'll get some more thoughts from the techs at work tomm... but you guys prolly know a ton more since here we mostly talk about SHOs lol... any other things that could possibly be wrong?

 

[shoteen95]

perhaps a dying Camshaft Identification Sensor (CID), i believe it plays a big role when starting the vehicle (to get the correct timing). But you've got some good advice going for you, get those codes.

 

[SHO#7]

When my fuel pump was getting weak, I would have great cold starts and long crank, lopey erratic idle situations when warm. ( Like running into the store and coming back out in 20 minutes )... I learned to turn the key a few times before starting the car. That helped build up fuel pressure and made it have a good start.

That was annoying though, so after I got the tank good and low, I replaced the pump and sender. Problem solved.

Mike

 

[projectSHO89]

If you work in a shop you probably have access to a timing light and a fuel pressure guage.

Put both to use when the engine fails to start so you can determine if the problem is fuel or spark related.

You can bypass the IAC valve by cracking the throttle 1/4 way while cranking. If it starts reliably with the throttle cracked, the IAC is not opening properly to allow air into the intake.

Once you know which sub-system is at fault, it eliminates the guessing game that results from "shotgunning" the car.

Steve

 

[YAHTEC]

IAC now rulled out... hmm... well now back to the spark/fuel part of it...

 

[SonicRiot]

The fuel rail shouldn't loose all of it's pressure over night. Does it drop to "0" or does it NOT drop?

Starting the car with the pedal to the floor is actually cutting off the fuel supply. Sounds like the engine is flooding (read: leaky injectors or a bad ETC) or you may even have a heat soak issue.

 

[dstig1]

A recent "car talk" column in the local paper is the likely answer for this. "Any car that starts fine but has a long crank time is probably losing fuel pressure over time from either a bad check valve or an injector leaking into the cylinder." Easy way to prove it: Do what a couple others previously mentioned - turn key to on and off a few times (not to start!) and then try starting. If that works consistently, then you know it is fuel pressure leak down, the problem is pinpointing it!

The point about the injecotrs leaking was the part that was a new one to me. I would've thought check valve only.

 

[ohfosho]

yeah i you havent had the front 60k done, then it is most likely the 2 sensors that this engine seems to rely on! the crank and the cam sensor.

 

[projectSHO89]

If an injector leaks down, It will cause more symptoms. Namely, fuel-diluted oil.

Steve

 

[YAHTEC]

If an injector leaks down, It will cause more symptoms. Namely, fuel-diluted oil.

Steve

how do I check for this? will the oil be a diff color or smell diff? i'm going to summit this weekend for a fuel pump and well if thats not it well i donno lol

btw I'm leaning more on the fuel pump side because there are gremlins(bubbling sound) in the tank when KOEO. which would result in a bad check valve which would explain my loss of pressure and long crank.

 

[TankII]

the regulator is fine, I check that when I had the guage on it because it jumped in PSI way high like 44 or so. But the pressure drops to nothing overnight, but then thats when its easiest to start for me which makes no sense to me...


btw, the car starts at WOT and ocasionally I will get a loud pop, kinda like a backfire... it sounds like a balloon popping...

Ignition wires. Or oil in the plug wells.
Popping = backfire in the intake

TankII

 

[oxrox]

I also have a brutal crank time.....20+ cranks, except when below freezing (starts right away) I have recently done the 60k and replaced both the cam position and crank position sensors but to no avail. I also get the bubbling sound for about 10 seconds after the car starts....It has been like this for several years now, and has always started..eventually. No CEL and no stored codes are appearing.

One day I will have to change the fuel pump.......

Ryan
95 ATX 85k

 

[Shuey]

CID Sensor.

 

[SonicRiot]

Leaky injectors was just a guess. It's just another possibility if the fuel rail is leaking down but the lines and regulator are fine.