looking at a 2010

[N8rfastback]

hey guys, I found a 2010 in milwaukee that im interested in.

heres the rundown:

vin:
http://services.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=1FAHP2KTXAG100901

They are asking:
30,997 for the car
139 doc fee
119 for temp tags, good for 60 days

I have 6 grand as a down payment, and I secured a loan for 25k at 2.49% already... so thats good to go.

I would need to fly to milwaukee from omaha (about $200 short notice) then drive 8 hours home.

Then pay registration in Iowa (military home of record.)

Think this can be done for under 31000 after all is said and done? I think its doable if the dealer comes down a little. I was thinking maybe offer him 30,750 out the door, after everything.

-Nate

Thanks for any feedback guys.

 

[KC_SHO]

How many miles on the 2010 SHO?

 

[freqz]

Is it new at that price?

EDIT: If so, then

 

[N8rfastback]

its around 25k. which is higher than normal, but I only put about 7k a year on a car, so Im not that worried about it.

Im doing the deal with the stealership monday, Im flying out early and driving the car back that day.... they agreed to 31 even for the car, out the door. Works great for me. I cant wait to pick it up. already booked the flight and put 500 down on the ride. Gotta swing by the bank thursday or so and pick up the check!

-Nate

 

[Melon]

Damn you - you're getting the one I really wanted Heated rear seats, the rear sunshade, and power pedals were 3 things I wanted, but weren't deal breakers.

And did you already make the deal? Or asking if we think it can be done? I got mine for around $28k with 15k on the clock in Missouri.

 

[mjhpadi]

Congrats on the purchase...you are now the proud owner of one of the 1518 2010 SHOs produced in Candy Red Metallic Clearcoat!

 

[N8rfastback]

Thanks guys. Its pretty much an every option car. All its missing is the performance package. Not worried about it though since I'm gonna do performance upgrades myself in time

 

[NebraskaSHO]

Hey welcome to Shoforum from another Nebraska member. Post up pictures when you get it back!

 

[SoCalSHO]

Did you check the car fax? At that price make sure it is certified, and do a thorough inspection. Also check the forums for the common problems on Job 1 cars (Or just the TSB's) and make sure your car is free from those problems. If something needs fixing, or is missing, make sure you get it put on a due bill, or money off the car. If you get it on a due bill, see if your local dealer will fix it, and the selling dealer will pay your local dealer to fix. They should do something for you since you are 8+ hours away.

 

[Crax]

I am cheap and find that to be a good deal. So I'll approve the deal for whatever that's worth. I have an early model too and the sunshade in the back rattled pretty bad when playing music - I mean well under half volume, so crank up some tunes in it. Korn was really bad.

Then the sunshade actually broke and wouldn't retract, so maybe blast some music and run that shade up and down a few times! I also have the peeling chrome trim around brake lights so you might want to pay close attention to that also.

 

[2010sho]

Nate,

Welcome to the SHO World.

A few concerns off the bat.

1) That is a way early 2010 Sho. Igt was produced in June of 2010. Hence 25K on it isnt that out of wack.

2) 31K doesnt include Tax I presume. Usually you pay tax in the state you register. Which means you could owe another 2500 to Iowa in tax and reg.

3) 31K seems high for this vehicle. I would expect you could find a similar vehicle for around 28 if you shop it hard.

If the 31K includes reg and tax to Iowa, it still is a little high but closer to where you should be.


It also doesn't have Adaptive CC, I never thought it was a big deal , but just last week it saved me and alerted me to an impending incident that I was able to avoid.

Let me add, if you keep this car for 8 years , the extra 2K spent will not worth even worrying about. But if your paying 31K plus transportation, fuel then 2500 in tax and reg to Iowa, your not getting a solid deal IMHO.

Best of Luck

 

[mjhpadi]

I have an early model too and the sunshade in the back rattled pretty bad when playing music - I mean well under half volume, so crank up some tunes in it. Korn was really bad.

There is a TSB that addresses this issue. Also if you have the sound system on surround sound it really sounds bad, changing it to stereo improves the quality of the sound. I suppose movies would be ok in surround sound.

 

[mjhpadi]

1) That is a way early 2010 Sho. Igt was produced in June of 2010.

Actually, if this car was produced in June 2010 it is a late production 2010...very near the end of the production of 2010's. Maybe you mean it was manufactured in June 2009?

 

[markathome]

I'd definitely make sure it doesn't have a June 2009 build date.
Easy check for late 2010/Job#2 build cars is the trunk pull handle.

 

[mjhpadi]

Just saying it isn't an early 2010 if it was built in June 2010. Mine was built Nov. 30, 2009 and was #1045 of 1518...so there was less then 500 more red built from Dec. 2009 to end of production. BTW, mine is a job 1 car, doesn't have the trunk pull handle but does have the blackened shift indicator.

 

[2010sho]

Hello,

It was a typo. His vehicle was built in June of 09 It is an early build.

 

[N8rfastback]

Whats bad about the early builds?

 

[mjhpadi]

Whats bad about the early builds?

I don't believe anything is "bad" about the early builds, we were only discussing the build date of the car...just kinda: "shooting the breeze". Really was nothing more then discussion.

 

[2010sho]

N8

Nothing inherently bad about early builds. The only downside is they were new. During the MY Ford made small improvements to processes and materials during the build cycle.

One could assume that a early build car would have more nuisance issues as compared to a late MY run.

Your car should be covered for another 12 months. Just make sure you get any issues fixed before it expires. You may also consider a ford extnd warranty. These cars are complex, the hi-tech stuff is expensive and you need lots of high dollar test equipment to repair.

If money is an issue, pop for the additional 1500 and buy a Ford Warranty. These vehicles have no longevity history. We don't know what will pop up in the next 4-5 years.

 

[N8rfastback]

Thats great advice and I will look into it. Thanks guys.