boogeyman
the BOOGEYMAN
jumped cam timing ??
Let's see how good you are!
- Thread starter SHO_Gary
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Yes I hear you on the IAC might be bad even though it was new. That is why I took the one off my 92 that runs and idles perfect. Still same problem.
Good to know about the 3 temp sensors. I was unaware of the 2 pin one in the themostat housing that is buried. I will double check that one. The code of 21...coolant temp sensor out of range did go away after I put the replacement sensor in the heater hose line. And you said that one is for the EATC. Go figure why it went away! Maybe it is part of the short/electrical issue it could be having. I will check wiring leading to it and throw another sensor in.
Thought/question.......even if that temp sensor is out and telling the computer it is 20 below zero (I dont know what they set the computer default to) how rich will it make the engine run during warm-up? Reason being it burned 2.5 gallons of gas in just 10 minutes of idling and 5 times around the block. And I am not talking about a country block, maybe 1.5 miles max driving. It runs so crappy and stalls at intersections dispite your best driving effort, I try to avoid them! And like I said...once it stalls like that....it is almost impossible to restart by cranking. I dont know that the computer would tell it to run that rich on a warm-up.
No on the jumped cam timing.....checked that. It happened on a 95 I owned and was difficult to diagnose because it did not jump that far out.
Going to check wiring and sensor and....and...and....!!!!
Thanks and keep the comments coming!
Good to know about the 3 temp sensors. I was unaware of the 2 pin one in the themostat housing that is buried. I will double check that one. The code of 21...coolant temp sensor out of range did go away after I put the replacement sensor in the heater hose line. And you said that one is for the EATC. Go figure why it went away! Maybe it is part of the short/electrical issue it could be having. I will check wiring leading to it and throw another sensor in.
Thought/question.......even if that temp sensor is out and telling the computer it is 20 below zero (I dont know what they set the computer default to) how rich will it make the engine run during warm-up? Reason being it burned 2.5 gallons of gas in just 10 minutes of idling and 5 times around the block. And I am not talking about a country block, maybe 1.5 miles max driving. It runs so crappy and stalls at intersections dispite your best driving effort, I try to avoid them! And like I said...once it stalls like that....it is almost impossible to restart by cranking. I dont know that the computer would tell it to run that rich on a warm-up.
No on the jumped cam timing.....checked that. It happened on a 95 I owned and was difficult to diagnose because it did not jump that far out.
Going to check wiring and sensor and....and...and....!!!!
Thanks and keep the comments coming!
SHOracer14
Me-0 Diffs-6
I'm with stupid... considering the basics you've already tried.
boogeyman
the BOOGEYMAN
how bout a can of carb cleaner around the intake, boots, vac blocks to find any random leaks
a few years ago i had a mustang that blew up the brake booster and caused all kinds of **** to figure out
a few years ago i had a mustang that blew up the brake booster and caused all kinds of **** to figure out
SuperHO
Mental Patient
the temp sensors for the EATC are behind the grill and behind the SHO badge on the dash, respectively...neither one would cause the car to run like that. have you gone over the wiring harness at all? specifically the section that runs across the rear valve cover? it's been known to, if not properly secured, to drop down to the header and cause grief...also, check the vaccuum lines up on the firewall and the lines for the secondaries. are the secondaries closing on start-up?
If the pcm thinks the coolant is very cold (i.e. -20F) then the car will run in open loop for as long as 12-15 minutes before the pcm decides that the coolant sensor is wacky, so it will run more rich, use more gas, and not care about the feedback from other sensors like the 02, etc. during that period.
once it gets to closed loop control, it will try to adjust a/f based on input from tps, mafs, intake air temp sensor, 02 sensors and rpm to keep it swinging back across stoich per the 02 sensors, except for WOT where it will be open loop even if its warmed up.
a huge vacuum leak will cause poor mileage because of running lean, not rich. you will not have plugs soaked in fuel in that scenario as the op is describing.
mileage is crappy with an improperly set idle screw because the engine burns a lot more fuel at 1500 rpm than it does at 700. plus, its sort of challenging to drive.....
92greenmtx
New Member
I'm on board with these guys. Question: ect code was the only one there, did you get it to clear and stay out of memory? If not I would continue to pursue that code until it was taken care of. Do you have a scan tool to monitor ect while driving? (that would help a lot). Also if the 2 pin ect is good, I would ensure the wiring was as well. I would be tempted to overlay the ect wiring if you suspect it may be an issue.
There are a lot of things that will cause a MAF engine to run lean but not to many to force it rich. For that engine to run so rich it won't restart after a stall would lead me toward maf or ect input signal. Since you have an ect code I would concentrate there.
If you had a vac leak large enough to affect off idle disability I have to believe it would be an easy one to hear/ find.
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
Question to the OP about the coolant sensors. Does your temp gauge seem to work normally? Does it rise smoothly as engine temp increases? Or does it **** around or stay in the cold area all the time? If it seems to work properly, you can swap out the 2 coolant sensors above the thermostat housing to see if the PCM coolant sensor is bad. IIRC, both sensors are the same and can be swapped. The sensor closest to the radiator controls the temp gauge and the rear sensor ties into the PCM.
I would just replace both as they are like 5 bucks each but if you are tight on cash ersumshit, you can try swapping them around. :wave:
I would just replace both as they are like 5 bucks each but if you are tight on cash ersumshit, you can try swapping them around. :wave:
AND THE WINNER IS !!!!!!..............All of you like LJ Ruddy, Firebat45, etc. who thought the problem was in the temp sensor or wiring associated with it. After spending 3 more hours on it Friday with no luck I went out for the evening. I got up early today and took out the temp sensor that sits below all the stuff by the themostat. The previous owner had put in a replacement. It has the stock electrical plug in but it is a cheap plastic piece of crap! The Ford ones and the replacements I have seen SHO Source sell are brass and are quality, this thing almost looks like a 'dummy' plug. Even the tip is plastic and the threads! It has no name on it so unfortunately I cannot tell you what to avoid in the future. When in doubt..........go with the heavier brass one.
Once the new one was in I reset the computer and fired it up. It did a 'normal' reset on the idle without a 3000 rpm rev! I was excited to say the least. After giving it a few more minutes of idle reset time I hit the road. It no longer stumbles for 1-2 seconds when you hit the gas. Revs clean all the way through and returns to a perfect idle at the stop sign. All issues are gone and you can stand behind the car while idling without getting high from all the unburned gas fumes! It runs every bit as good as my low mileage 92 and will now become my daily driver!
I learned alot from this car. Like I said it put that code 21 out 1 month ago but went away when I changed the temp sensor in the heater line by the firewall. And did not return over this past month. I will check the codes Tuesday at Ford but I am sure they will be the same as the last time I checked it.
Thanks again to all those who took the time to help and those who keep this website up! It is nice to be in the SHO Brotherhood Club!
Have a great Memorial Day Weekend........I am now crusing in my clean running 93!
Once the new one was in I reset the computer and fired it up. It did a 'normal' reset on the idle without a 3000 rpm rev! I was excited to say the least. After giving it a few more minutes of idle reset time I hit the road. It no longer stumbles for 1-2 seconds when you hit the gas. Revs clean all the way through and returns to a perfect idle at the stop sign. All issues are gone and you can stand behind the car while idling without getting high from all the unburned gas fumes! It runs every bit as good as my low mileage 92 and will now become my daily driver!
I learned alot from this car. Like I said it put that code 21 out 1 month ago but went away when I changed the temp sensor in the heater line by the firewall. And did not return over this past month. I will check the codes Tuesday at Ford but I am sure they will be the same as the last time I checked it.
Thanks again to all those who took the time to help and those who keep this website up! It is nice to be in the SHO Brotherhood Club!
Have a great Memorial Day Weekend........I am now crusing in my clean running 93!
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
gmail
Well-Known Member
i just now read this but skimmed threw it to the end.. im a cheater ok...
anyways are you talking about the temp sensor with the 1 wire?
anyways are you talking about the temp sensor with the 1 wire?
SHOtimer
#2910
It really wasn't that long that you couldn't just read it.
The temp sensor with one wire just goes to the gauge, it doesn't make any difference on how the car runs.
He changed the ECT sensor (to the right of the thermostat-the one that goes to the computer) and it fixed everything.
Doug
gmail
Well-Known Member
well what i read sounded like he talked about that and i know it was for the gauge. thats what i was going to tell him after i confirmed it was what he was talking about or not.
SVOFANATIC
Active Member
Made of plastic?!?! WTF that's an ACT sensor who would put a damn ACT sensor in an ECT location?!?
sho_stopper513
Member
im having the same promblems with my car. flooding out an not wanting to start for a while. when i start my car it idles about 2000 rpm then after a min it goes back down to 1000 rpms. as it is idling i cant hit the gas an it purges about 2500 rpms. could my car be having the same promblems your car was having an do you think changing that temp sensor will fix it. my car also dies when i unplug the iac. but my butterflies are not closing when i start it an they also don open at 3800 rpms......any suggestions.....well i had the butterfly sensor connector and the temp sensor connector mixed up(they are the same connector ends) the temp sensor im talking about is the one on the heater line by the firewall......i was told if i mix them two up an turn the key on it would instantly burn out my secondary circuit in my computer...is this correct....i need help!!! thanks
Similar threads
