Left Rear Wheel Won't Turn, Suggestions?

[Spcymonkey]

I have a 95 MTX with 70k miles on it. Recently, the car as sat for most of the winter and spring. When I went to drive it today, the left rear wheel won't turn, it just drags along! The right rear wheel moves just fine though. I'm not a super handy car guy, but I'd like to try to tackel this problem myself. Anyone have any idea what it could be and what the possible solutions would be? Thanks!

 

[SHObill]

either the emergency brake is on or cable is froze or caliper slider pins are froze or the rubber hose is collapsed or all of the above!

 

[Spcymonkey]

Well, the E-brake definitely wasn't on, so that rules that out. I don't think it's stuck either because I definitely tried putting the brake on to see if that might be it. Are the calipers a hard job to do? I figure why I am doing this I might as well try to put new brake pads and rotors on anyways since the wheel will already be off, but I want to know if there is anything else that might cause the problem.

 

[1982X11]

If you are comfortable with removing the caliper (might need the assistance of a 2lb hammer) compressing the piston, swapping the pads for new ones, lubing the slide pins, and bleeding the brakes (if you have to replace the caliper), then it's not too bad. It's not a bad job, but if it is your first brake job, you might want to get help from someone with experience. Hope that helps.

 

[92MTX]

Slider pins.. If they are really bad, you will have to replace the caliper brackets.. Mine froze solid, and neither heat, nor vise grips and a hammer could get them out.. (This was because of the North East winters)
Cowsareholy drove 40+ miles to bring them to me.. lol
Then the bleeder valves snapped off, and I had to get new calipers.. sigh. Good Times..

 

[Spcymonkey]

So what I am gathering is that the problem most likely lies with the caliper pins, so if I replace the brake pads and rotors, and replace the caliper pins while I'm at it, then there is at least a good chance I'm good to go eh? I think I can handle that, even if I have to get someone to supervise my first brake job haha. I just have always loved my SHO's and I want to start being able to do some of the work on my own, ya know?

 

[Spcymonkey]

Also, I did find a pretty handy guide on how to change your front brakes on a Gen 1 SHO which should help http://www.shophoenixproject.com/brakes/frontbrakes.htm. Is changing the rear brakes basically the same or is there some different stuff I should watch out for?

 

[92MTX]

Nope, pretty much the same.

 

[shocrates]

The main difference between the front and the rear is the rear brake calipers function for the emergency brake also. You will have to remove the emergency brake cable from the rear calipers. Most importantly, the rear caliper piston needs to be spun (clockwise) while the piston is being pushed back in.

 

[Spcymonkey]

Thanks for the info. FYI, anyone know of a good place with good prices that I can buy new calipers, rotors, and pads for the SHO?

 

[shocrates]

Autozone has good prices.

 

[92MTX]

Hey!! I lived in York Springs for a while.. And Hanover, and Hampstead,
And Silver Springs...

 

[RonPorter]

You either need to buy a loaded caliper that includes the bracket, or just the bracket, as the slider pins are in the bracket, not the caliper.

 

[Spcymonkey]

I bought a rear loaded caliper pair from autozone, should arrive in the mail by tomorrow, and then I will attempt my first ever car repair. Lets hope i don't mess this up too bad!

Do you know if a loaded caliper pair comes with pads also or will I have to pick those up separate as well?

 

[shocrates]

A loaded caliper comes with pads.

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

too bad 91s and the 95s are different... i have a loaded rear caliper from my 91 that i need to get rid of...

 

[Spcymonkey]

Okay so an update. I have removed the caliper brakets, pads, and rotors from the car with no trouble, and both wheels turn, so I've definitely solved the problem now I think.

Here is my question. On the rear brakes, there are two lines running to the calipers. One I am assuming is the normal brake line, and it disconnects right at the caliper with a wrench no problem. What is the other line, and how do you remove it safely? I figure I'd ask before I went ahead and tried anything.

Also, do I need to open the master cylinder top before disconnecting the brake lines?

 

[Spcymonkey]

Also, where is the master cylinder located in the SHO?

 

[TYSHO]

The master cylinder is under the hood on the drivers side, right by the firewall. It's a white/yellowish bottle like storage with a black top.

The second line is a cable line, which is the emergency brake line. It's a cable because the emergency brake is used manually. You can just pull it straight back with a pair of vise grips and move it out the way. You won't damage it, I promise you that.

No, you do not need to open the master cylinder to remove the brake line on the caliper. You want the brake system closed as much as possible, as the idea is to keep as much humidity out of the system as you can.


Edit: Do not forget to bleed the brake line after you install the loaded caliper. You can pick up a self bleeder at the auto store with directions. Top off brake fluid as needed, and do not let it go low when you bleed the brakes.

 

[Spcymonkey]

Pull it straight back eh, right off of the caliper itself? I'll have to try that. If anyone has any pictures/diagrams/videos of doing this let me know, that would be totally sweet.

I'm not sure why I asked about the master cylinder, I found it 30 seconds after typing it with no problems. I have it removed now but I'll put the cap back on since it can stay closed, and I have a friend who will help bleed the brakes, so that won't be an issue either. As long as I can get this e-brake cable off the old caliper and onto the new one, I think I'm good to go with this!