Knock on startup

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CheckerSHO

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How many people's SHOs knock on startup? mine has 133k(33k of that was with a hard driving owner but did maintenence)and it knocks for about 2-3 seconds on startup after about 6-8hrs sitting(or overnight).
I have heard of an oil filter doing this(one without an anti-drainback valve)...i have a Fram oil filter on it now. So i guess my question is 1)who has knock on startup and
2)what oil filter do you have
3)mileage on motor
 

twr

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half-way there, I think.
Generally, knocking on start up is an indication of worn rod bearings. With no oil pressure to fill the void, the rods will knocks slightly.
 

pete c

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I replaced my rod bearing right after purchasing my 93 mtx w/90k miles on it about 2 weeks ago because I was concerned with this same problem. The old bearings showed what I believe to be normal wear, a little copper showing in the top half. The journals were in perfect condition. With the new clevite bearings, the knock is still there. If anything, it may possibly have gotten worse. The knock does go away immediately. I first noticed it after changing my oil w/5-30 mobil 1. After doing the bearings I went to 10-30 castrol. There is still a quart or so of the 5-30 floating around in there. I am considering trying one of the aftermarket oil additives such as slick 50, but, I think I will wait until after another oil change when the remnants of the 5-30 are gone. I suppose a few qts of 20-50 might quite things, but have been told by the gurus here that I don't want to go to anything heavier than the 10-30.
 

CheckerSHO

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pete c:
I replaced my rod bearing right after purchasing my 93 mtx w/90k miles on it about 2 weeks ago because I was concerned with this same problem. The old bearings showed what I believe to be normal wear, a little copper showing in the top half. The journals were in perfect condition. With the new clevite bearings, the knock is still there. If anything, it may possibly have gotten worse. The knock does go away immediately. I first noticed it after changing my oil w/5-30 mobil 1. After doing the bearings I went to 10-30 castrol. There is still a quart or so of the 5-30 floating around in there. I am considering trying one of the aftermarket oil additives such as slick 50, but, I think I will wait until after another oil change when the remnants of the 5-30 are gone. I suppose a few qts of 20-50 might quite things, but have been told by the gurus here that I don't want to go to anything heavier than the 10-30.
Where did u find the bearings? i just tried napa and they said none of their distributors in the country have em' frown
 

pete c

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ACME Auto. They did not have them in their supply system, but, were able to order them from another supplier. Don't know if you have ACME down there. Try a good local parts place, the ones that real mechanics use rather than the big chains. You may pay a little more, but, you'll get it.
 

nc89sho

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I have a rattle at startup untill the car getts warm, i've tracked it down i think to the valve/cams. almost seemes like the oil isn't getting to the cams fast enough. I'm useing a Bosch filter right now but was useing a mobil1 filter (w/anti flowback) with the same results. have been running mobil 1 10w 30. I can't figure it out yet.
 

sdpatt

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I have heard several different SHOs that used synthetic oils rattle on startup - including mine. That is why I went back to Castrol GTX. I don't believe that the older SHO engines are adequately oiled on startup when using synthetic oils. Synthetic oil users beware.
 

jthomas68

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Castrol GTX 10W30 with a Motorcraft filter has been the best results i`ve seen in my SHO.It burned/leaked a noticable amout of oil between changes with the OEM 5W30 oil weight.As for filters,i just went thru this yesterday when buying the items for my oil change,here`s my observations:

Purilator Pure One-The seal looked very dirty,like it had been on a dirty floor.I don`t want this anywhere near my oil.

Purilator Pure One Pt2-I grabbed a different box,and it had the wrong filter in it.It was just a standard Purilator filter.I want nothing to do with this filter company.

K&N-This was the most pricey filter at just under $10.The metal looking into the filter looked cheap.Being a toolmaker/mold maker by trade,plastic and metals are my area of expertise.I was not impressed with it`s construction,and opted to pass.

Motorcraft-I always run this filter,but didn`t see any at 1st.I then stumbled across the Motorcraft section,which only consisted of 4 different sizes of filter,VERY low selection.The book that shows what filter is for my SHO wasn`t even at the store,but i remembered it anyways.There just happened to be a few of the good old 4000S filters,so i grabbed one.It is by far the best constructed filter of all the brands i looked at,and the only filter i`ll use in my SHO.
 

CheckerSHO

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sdpatt:
I have heard several different SHOs that used synthetic oils rattle on startup - including mine. That is why I went back to Castrol GTX. I don't believe that the older SHO engines are adequately oiled on startup when using synthetic oils. Synthetic oil users beware.
Im running Castrol GTX 10w30 in mine. I ran mobil 1 in one of my previous SHOs and had bad results(noisy and burned lots of oil).
 

Slo-Sho

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Can the timing chain tensioners be the culprit? I've never heard of anyone replacing these, yet they are a wear item. (As far as SHOSHOP says)
 

SHOfun 93

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In the future, you might want to switch away from Fram filters, they let the largest particles in the oil pass through. I am switching from Mobil 1 to Castrol for my next oil change which will be on Saturday morning.
 

stevetatro

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Again, does anybody know which filter brands have anti-drainback valves?

There are now two criteria for selecting a filter for me: ability to trap particles and having an anti-drainback valve wink

Thanks.
 

SHOfun 93

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I believe the K&N oil filters have said valve, but don't quote me. :confused: Also, thought you guys would find this interesting..I dug it up from an old shotimes.com post about filters.

They are talking about a Mustang Filter on an SHO that allows you to have an extra quart of oil in the system due to the larger filter......

From SHOTIMES.COM....

FL-1A does work,i just put it in.Definitly more oil in the system! Why
throw it away when you have twice the filtering capacity.The guy's i
talked to at te FORD dealership near me were freaked out when i told
them i wanted a STANG' filter for my little SHO! I told them our WEB.
SITE and the INFO. they could learn and I definetly left some jaws left
open! Synthetic & big filter even in AUTOMATIC work GREAT! No leaks,just

GREAT service & PERFORMANCE! PLEASE everybody keep up the great work &
don't let any question go unturned!HELP keep OUR YAMAFORD kick'in A#*!
Any new ideas wether requested or not PLease throw my way! THX>TROY

THoughts???? burn_out

<small>[ July 26, 2002, 12:42 PM: Message edited by: Jeremy Hohn ]</small>
 

ellis

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For those using Fram filters, please use caution. I had a 351W rebuilt in the late `80s (.030 over, rod, mains,cam, etc.) After 6 miles the engine lost all oil pressure. Upon investigation we found that the bypass valve in the fram oil filter had been assembled backwards allowing oil to bypass the filter media completely. On a older engine, I would have never known, but on a fresh engine, the results can be devistating. To Frams credit, they paid for new bearings, crank, and even paid for my time putting in the engine. Now I kiss every filter (blow in the center hole) to make sure there is some resistance to flow.
 
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