Knock knock

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810sho

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I can’t find any information on what head gaskets all of the aftermarket cylinder support or any closed deck guys are using either, they have engines out there that are bored and stroked already no? Why wouldn’t it be feasible to get a head gasket with the correct coolant ports on it, the only ports that are different are the ones by cylinder and the oval instead of circle, they have identical coolant passages otherwise, and the head bolt locations are the same, can anyone speculate why this would not work still?
Eb
View attachment 84456
3.7
View attachment 84457

There has to be someone out there that has a head gasket for a bored eb they make kits for them super six sells for their “4.0 l stroker kit” they would obviously have to use the same size piston for this application and if they’re interchangeable that would be really weird that their not the same block and if they’re the same block they can accept the heads depending on if they’re tivct or ivct variants of heads which should still bolt up to the transverse block regardless, I understand they say they’re not “interchangeable” but they don’t say why, they only say the difference is exhaust manifolds, direct injection system which if you have the supported vehicle you should be able to use the top end of a 3.5 eb on a 3.7 block. Especially the blocks with ivct instead of tivct (which it appears to be the same block regardless)
 
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810sho

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From the article: "The 3.5 and 3.7 do not use the same cylinder heads and the heads do not interchange. The Eco-Boost cylinder head is also different from the generic 3.5 and 3.7 cylinder heads with regards to direct injection and the exhaust ****** bolt patterns The combustion chamber is shaped differently and of course the presence of the hole for the fuel injector." "
The intake manifolds, heads and pistons are not interchangeable between naturally aspirated and EcoBoost applications. Driver side valve cover, fuel rails, high pressure direct injection fuel system, etc are also non-interchangeable."

Combine that with the fact that head gasket part numbers do not match (OE or aftermarket), head gasket specs don't match (including thickness), they do not physically appear the same (oval vs round cooling jackets. The fact that there are adapters to put 3.5 manifolds and turbos on a 3/7 instead of swapping top ends.

Using a 3.7 block with 3.5 heads would also mean the combustion chamber, head would overhang the cylinder bore making piston deck height and dome extremely important.
The only reason they don’t swap top ends is because they are using pcm from that vehicle there is no need because of no direct injection the kit isn’t for a ecoboost vehicle it’s for a na vehicle to add turbos, morale of the story is I don’t see why other than the coolant passages it matters, all transverse cyclone blocks are the same it’s just the heads that are different why other than coolant ports in the head gasket wouldn’t it work? And like I stated above if there are already 3.5/3.7/3.5eb engines running six’s stroker kit they would have to be identical bore and stroke so they would have to have a gasket somewhere already made for this application that would be a very terrible sales pitch to sell a stroker kit for a eb vehicle that won’t work because the 3.7 head gasket wont work.

I would like a full definition of why they don’t interchange because if you look at the heads the bolt pattern and coolant passages are very similar between them

The only difference I see is the eb cc volume is larger

Thes heads are for the ivct Only

Not the tivct (what six was talking about in the article)

There should be absolutely no reason the eb head wouldn’t bolt up to the 3.7 ivct block and work with the proper head gasket
Eb
A89BA8A6 E5B9 4E0A 9875 31AB9CFE8E07
3.7
49DD7646 EC51 4FD3 9A5B 484BB5A0D1D9
 
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810sho

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This is the stroker kid that they claim will work in 3.5/3.7/eb engines, I emailed them to get more information about this because I would hate for them to be falsely advertising this for the ecoboost when it will not work, if it does work that means the short block is the same and the heads ARE interchangeable with the correct head gasket, of course checking ptv clearance deck hight quench area ect. I’m not saying this is going to be easy BUT it should be possibleC807150F 4953 4487 B8F3 CB03E492E01A
 

Ta2dResqr

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There are different kits. If you notice, that kit has 8 different applications, there is no part number and the prices are listed as "from". So when you order that kit, you go down a list with them and tell them application and desire. Then they will select the parts that fit. A stroker kit does not change bore.

What is your end goal? Why are you so dead set on the 3.7? Is it the extra displacement? You can get a 3.5L block for $250. Complete motor for $1500. With your talk about going for bigger power and possibly bending a 3.5 rod, are you thinking that a 3.7 rod (motor that factory has 60hp and 100ftlb less power) has stronger rods? If your planning to do a motor build, I would get the 3.5 block that you know will work and do the bore/stroke to it rather then trying to start with a 3.7 that may or may not work and still needing to beef up components. Starting with a 3.7, your pistons are not going to be designed for the 3.5 combustion chamber and need replaced (a set from Super Six is gonna be $1000+). Seems like a lot of extra work that will only result in needing to spend more money.
 

M.J

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There are different kits. If you notice, that kit has 8 different applications, there is no part number and the prices are listed as "from". So when you order that kit, you go down a list with them and tell them application and desire. Then they will select the parts that fit. A stroker kit does not change bore.

What is your end goal? Why are you so dead set on the 3.7? Is it the extra displacement? You can get a 3.5L block for $250. Complete motor for $1500. With your talk about going for bigger power and possibly bending a 3.5 rod, are you thinking that a 3.7 rod (motor that factory has 60hp and 100ftlb less power) has stronger rods? If your planning to do a motor build, I would get the 3.5 block that you know will work and do the bore/stroke to it rather then trying to start with a 3.7 that may or may not work and still needing to beef up components. Starting with a 3.7, your pistons are not going to be designed for the 3.5 combustion chamber and need replaced (a set from Super Six is gonna be $1000+). Seems like a lot of extra work that will only result in needing to spend more money.
Can you send me a link to a good working complete engine for $1,500? Serious question ahaha, I need to build an engine for my current mods as I know my current engine is on borrowed time. Sorry to get sidetracked.
 

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810sho

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There are different kits. If you notice, that kit has 8 different applications, there is no part number and the prices are listed as "from". So when you order that kit, you go down a list with them and tell them application and desire. Then they will select the parts that fit. A stroker kit does not change bore.

What is your end goal? Why are you so dead set on the 3.7? Is it the extra displacement? You can get a 3.5L block for $250. Complete motor for $1500. With your talk about going for bigger power and possibly bending a 3.5 rod, are you thinking that a 3.7 rod (motor that factory has 60hp and 100ftlb less power) has stronger rods? If your planning to do a motor build, I would get the 3.5 block that you know will work and do the bore/stroke to it rather then trying to start with a 3.7 that may or may not work and still needing to beef up components. Starting with a 3.7, your pistons are not going to be designed for the 3.5 combustion chamber and need replaced (a set from Super Six is gonna be $1000+). Seems like a lot of extra work that will only result in needing to spend more money.
For premise, I think it would be cool if it is possible, they use the same rods and different pistons, but from what I can find all 3.7 engines use the same pistons and the mustang engines are making good power so if it’s feasible why not entertain the idea?

the stroker kit does change bore I spoke to super six the only way to achieve 4.0 l with that block deck height is with bore it is a 3.780 bore, you would run into rod geometry issues and clearance issues with the bottom of the bore and I’m sure other areas if you did not.

I am currently verifying this but there will be a max stroke length that these blocks are capable of running regardless, and to achieve the 4.0 l displacement you would have to bore the cylinder to make up for this.

If you read their pdf file they offer “.004-.020” oversized pistons and the crank is a 3.60 crank which according to their catalog is the only one they use in this application so the only difference they offer is rod length and piston height that would be dependent on the application, so you would have to bore the 3.5 out to atleast the bore diameter of the 3.7 to even come close the displacement with their crank only is 3.6 l with the 3.7 l bore size it’s 3.9 and some change so do you see where I’m going with this ? If you had a 3.7 block already you could just drop in the 4l crank rods and pistons to achieve 4.0l

As you stated before the bore on the 3.7 is around .100 larger but they use the same stroke crank shaft stock.

With that being said the crank shaft would have to be 7mm longer or .276” longer to use the 3.5 bore diameter which is not a little amount, if the 3.7l bore diameter was used (or larger) this stroke length could be decreased to reduce rod to stroke ratio which would lessen the strain on the crankshaft and rods due to piston velocity, stroke promotes larger torque numbers because of the velocity the piston is moving at, which is not what this application needs, these engines produce great torque as it is and could potentially produce more horsepower up top with a larger bore, even if you gained 40hp and shifted the torque curve higher it would be theoretically easier on the drivetrain

You cannot determine displacement by stroke length alone. Almost all stroker engines are either bored or less displacement and for this kit to achieve 4.0 l on the 3.5 it will have to be bored.

I also talked to multiple mls gasket manufacturers and they will make a custom gasket for this application, so if that’s the case 3.7 l engine are very cheap. And a easy way to gain displacement so if you’re already building a engine you can mitigate machining cost by having a larger bore diameter from the get go, it’s never been done on the platform so why not maybe more some people would be interested if they knew all of the information available about these engines,

I understand that the trans and ptu are a weak link, so if the work is already done and the possibility is there why wouldn’t someone want to start with the 3.7 block for a radically built ecoboost if you are gonna change rods and piston in the ecoboost why not in the 3.7 .2 l sounds trivial but with the 4l stuff they’re seeing almost 70hp from .5l increase so the slight displacement change may be beneficial.

@M.J make sure you are getting the correct engine if you are looking at explorer engines they switched to TI-VCT sometime within the production of those cars, you need to verify if your car has one cam phaser on the intake and one on the exhaust if it does, this is a TI-vct variant

If it is like mine, single phaser and solenoid you can tell by looking towards the front of the valve cover and the material the valve cover is made of I am unsure if they made shos with tivct but I do know they made explorers with it which I would suspect they do make them I believe 2016+ 3.5eb are tivct

I believe
Plastic -tivct
Aluminum -ivct

This is very important due to the harness compatibility


Also not everyone can get those engines that cheap, where I live they are 2500+ engines with 180k on them which is not at all worth it, unless the engine was catastrophically damaged it would be a better investment to rebuild it. Or source a low mile 3.7 at that point, which is why this idea was brought up, automotix and other junkyard distributors like lqk want a lot of money for the 3.5 eb engines and local junk yards do too. So that’s not probable for everyone.
ADE6912A 8154 4AF0 B06F 21DD89E79D6D

The mustang pistons hold up to is why wouldn’t the other 3.7l engines especially if you put ring gap in them, people have been boosting na engines for eons now and I don’t forsee this being any different. Like I stated earlier if you’re going as far as building a dedicated engine for this platform why wouldn’t it be a good idea to just increase the Displacement for free essentially especially if you don’t wanna shell out the extra for a stroker kit if the displacement is already there why not? Nobody can tell me why it won’t work it’s all speculation there’s no evidence that it wouldn’t work.

I don’t like Speculation if there’s a will there’s a way and if the info is out there maybe more people will understand the platform and not be left in the dark on cheaper options for their build

If I rebuild my engine say it is a rod knock, that’s all of the rod bearings being replaced and sending the crank out to be inspected for possible heat checking and scoring on the crank with all that money I spent on getting the 3.5 back up I could have bought a 3.7 short block and bolted my heads up to the thing with cometics 95mm bore gen 1 eco boost head gasket

Hopefully this makes sense on why I wanted to entertain this swap, the only thing I am unsure of is if the tivct and ivct blocks are the exact same from what I’ve seen yes they are, but I know for a fact the ivct variations are identical because they are “gen1” I do not know if the block changed when they went to the updated version.

If I continue with the swap I will log everything on this site and keep everyone posted I think this swap could potentially help progress the platform even though some might think .2l is not that much difference


*displacements between engines*

3.5l
Bore: 92.5mm
Stroke : 86.7
3.7l
Bore: 95.5
Stroke: 86.7
4l
Bore: 96.5
Stroke :91.44

3.5 with super six crank
3.7l
Bore 92.5
Stroke: 91.44

3.7 with super six crank
3.9l
Bore:95.5
Stroke:91.44

Morale of the story the 3.7 is a better starting point for really any serious application, the fact that you won’t have to machine the block to accept the pistons to stroke to the close to the 4l displacement the engine is money saved to put elsewhere in the build. And you could probably run the 3.7 l with the stock internals plus ring gap up as high as the ecoboosts upper limits.
 
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Ta2dResqr

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Those motors are available to anyone. Many junkyards ship. Car-Part and LKQ are literally designed to link shops/consumers with junkyards nationwide. I have shipped everything from small interior parts to motors/transmissions to truck beds through those companies. Yes there is going to be a shipping charge but, it should not be any where near $1000. I have also bought a block multiple times and it was not a bare block. They are in the business of fast and easy. Harnesses are usually clipped off and your part shipped. If you but a block, they usually pulls the top end and sometimes an oil pan.
 

810sho

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Eeh man ya know I’m Just not interested in buying a 3.5 when a 3.7 is the same engine but for far less and more available to pickup

I’d rather inspect the engine myself. I’ve used lkq/automotix and car-part before. Availability and price is terrible on lkq and I’d rather not call a junkyard 1500 miles away them rip a engine out without inspection and I have to rebuild it again.
I’ve already wasted enough money on this platform I’m not interested in buying anything I haven’t checked out personally.

if I get the 3.7 going I’ll be not only the first to do it but have the largest displacement while .2l might not seem like much the mustang 3.7s are making very good power on a stock sealed short block. And if I decide build the 3.7 it will be getting Manley internals or a supersix 4.0l kit, and a melling hv pump, which would still be about the same as a local yard has a 3.5 eb for.

Just wouldn’t make sense to me if I replace the engine to not go bigger. Xdi injectors and meth/nitrous are next and a lpfp to support everything. And a trans once there readily available, will also probably be doing lsd eventually.

With that being said I appreciate the information and support y’all have been showing and when I get the swap done I’ll do a build thread for anyone interested in the swap
 
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810sho

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Ok. pull the trigger and let's see this thing go.
Will do, I will update this until the build officially starts, unless there is 100 percent a reason to not attempt it I will be going this route. Once all my ducks are in a row I will be continuing ill keep y’all updated
 

810sho

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@802SHO

I re read through and realized I never actually answered your question about boost / timing

The car rose to 18.12psi and 10* of timing by 4100rpm, dropped to 14psi and 11* of timing at 4200rpm then steadily increased to 16.5 psi of boost and 13.5 * of timing and leveled off there until 6300 rpm

Iat2 was 80-95 degrees on this pull (stock intercooler)
 

810sho

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Update: Cometic might make a gen2 ecoboost headgasket for a big bore application/3.7 bore diameter @ 95.5mm, they are $107, and are made to order. Lead time is a month. They can’t confirm on gen 1 just yet.

Update: Cometic will make these head gaskets for gen one ecoboost, I will post the email down below if anyone ever needs the part #, they are 3.760” or 95.5 mm bore size .047” thick
 

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SeanDev

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Hey guys new to the forum here, and still learning about the platform still,

I have a 2013 Taurus sho pp
Livernois cai
Catless downpipes
Xdi35
Cr stage 3 turbos
Treadstone tr10c intercooler

Long story short, the engine is probably hit



There are 2 videos of it knocking

I am unsure, I believe it’s rod knock. Maybe a phaser took a s*** You tell me?

With the eb engines being 3500+ for a used engine typically I will just rebuild the engine for that much.

First question if a rod is bent (which I doubt but wanna cover all grounds) are these eagle rods the ones for this ecoboost engine? The ad says 3.5 ecoboost/ 3.7 duratec so I would assume yes


If not I can replace the rods with factory but with watching Jordan’s bend a rod I’m sure I’m not far off with the current mods especially when I add meth/ n20

Also I wanted someone to shed some light on a 3.7 swap into a Taurus, I understand it’s the same block so theoretically everything should bolt up to it and I could find one of those relatively cheap compared to the 3.5 is the big problem with that cylinder wall thickness? I’m sure I could source oil/ coolant lines to the turbos no problem I’m just unsure of the 3.7s durability under boost,

I see super six making adapter kits for the 3.7l turbo swap onto mustang 3.7s and was wonder what’s the difference between the mustangs 3.7 and others ?

If all else fails I will rebuild with factory parts until I decide to build a dedicated engine for this car

Thanks In advance for any insight/ speculation it is all welcome and appreciated !
 

SeanDev

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As far as the 3.7 it's just a 3.5 N/A bored to 3.7. the 3.7 does have true dual exhaust and isn't direct inject. Plus the upper intake isn't designed for boost on the 3.7. It also uses the 6f55 tranny just like the Ecoboost. I've seen those turbo upgrades done to the 3.7, personally for the price they charge, ide stick with the 3.5 Ecoboost. And some things I've read over last couple years, without details I see the same issue with the 3.7 as far as stock and it looks like they are capped at 400whp , anything beyond and failure will occur.
 
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810sho

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As far as the 3.7 it's just a 3.5 N/A bored to 3.7. the 3.7 does have true dual exhaust and isn't direct inject. Plus the upper intake isn't designed for boost on the 3.7. It also uses the 6f55 tranny just like the Ecoboost. I've seen those turbo upgrades done to the 3.7, personally for the price they charge, ide stick with the 3.5 Ecoboost. And some things I've read over last couple years, without details I see the same issue with the 3.7 as far as stock and it looks like they are capped at 400whp , anything beyond and failure will occur.
from what I’ve been researching the only way it’s feasible is to use 3.5 ecoboost heads due to direct injection, reason I was seriously interested is because of the 3.7 mustangs hold relatively good power some sbe engines are making 500+ Not sure of the longevity but if I am going forged internals, the 3.7 makes more sense due to how cheap I can get the 3.7 engine, plus it’s uncharted territory so if all works out that would be a cool Feat to overcome.

Unfortunately the eb engines around me are astronomically high. Even on automotix or lkq is 2500-3500 range for higher mileage engines. For that much I can build the bottom end of a 3.7 and use that.
 

stripSHO

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from what I’ve been researching the only way it’s feasible is to use 3.5 ecoboost heads due to direct injection, reason I was seriously interested is because of the 3.7 mustangs hold relatively good power some sbe engines are making 500+ Not sure of the longevity but if I am going forged internals, the 3.7 makes more sense due to how cheap I can get the 3.7 engine, plus it’s uncharted territory so if all works out that would be a cool Feat to overcome.

Unfortunately the eb engines around me are astronomically high. Even on automotix or lkq is 2500-3500 range for higher mileage engines. For that much I can build the bottom end of a 3.7 and use that.
I think choosing the thinnest possible cylinder walls for a high power FI build is probably the most counter-productive thing you can do. But If you're going to do this then I don't know why you'd bother changing heads. Swap the whole engine, injectors, and pcm. Fueling upgrades become dramatically cheaper and more available with port injection. Then you don't have to worry about repercussions from screwing with chamber squish, raised compression, spraying DI against a non-DI piston, etc.

Yeah if you did it this way then it sounds like you'd probably have to re-tap the heads to be able to mount SHO exhaust manifolds. But, what if I told you that you're not going to see any performance gains if you plan on using anything resembling OEM style turbos? If you could bore and stroke your block to 10 L you still wouldn't make any more power.

With forced induction your power potential is a product of the size of your compressor and the holding ability of your short block. Displacement becomes irrelevant. F150 3.5L's are making 600 whp on stock turbos and living up to the stress of thrusting 5,000 lb trucks down the dragstrip in low to mid 11 seconds. I found no evidence to suggest you could even match that with a thin-walled 3.7L, let alone beat it.
 

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There is a little back story to this car I bought it at 120k got a unleaded tune, long story short at about 125k the turbos went out I was in the process of having ortiz tune it at the time the turbos went, I bought stage 3 turbos and a xdi 35 when the car was rebuilt Ortiz was the one who tuned it, the cr stage 3 turbos went out a at that time with about 2000 miles on them, I assume due to clogged oil lines, the fronts were a catastrophic failure the impeller imbedded itself into the housing the rears weren’t harmed to the ***** eye, just like the stock turbos. My e/t and mph was exactly the same with the bigger turbos 13.04 @109 2.00 60ft. Fast forward to now I had flushed the engine pulled the pan and checked for excessive metal in the oil pan/ pickup tube cleaned everything and re assembled the car runs fine but developed this knock after the first drive on gearhead tune, i had replaced the cps sensors and crank sensor so I was doing a crank relearn when I noticed it, it only happens between a certain rpm and runs fine otherwise.

I am unsure of what the commanded was by gearhead, the logged boost was 12psi and the spark advance v2 pid reads min -5.25, max 52.5 this is the first tune from gearhead (still learning this platform don’t crucify me lol)

And eagle rods I’m not sure just because I’ve heard they’re a reputable brand and hopefully stronger than the stock rods.

Thanks!
In response to the use of CR turbos, I chose not to go with them due them being clear that they do nothing but increase compressor wheel and due not rebuild turbos. To me that just didn't sit right. Why I went with TurboBay. All he uses is core, all other parts are new. He refuses to upgrade a turbo without a complete rebuild of all new parts, even wastegates are new.
 

810sho

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In response to the use of CR turbos, I chose not to go with them due them being clear that they do nothing but increase compressor wheel and due not rebuild turbos. To me that just didn't sit right. Why I went with TurboBay. All he uses is core, all other parts are new. He refuses to upgrade a turbo without a complete rebuild of all new parts, even wastegates are new.
i didn’t have that experience. My turbos were brand new, and when they went out this time the whole chra was replaced on both turbos,
 

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