Key wont turn

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Dylan

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I've got a problem with my 98. I went to try and start it. It's been sitting for a few months. And when I put the key in to turn it, it doesn't move. It's in a locked position. It will giggle a TINY bit, but that's it. And the steering wheel is locked also. But that too will move a tiny bit, but that's it. I've tired for a bout half hour, tring to turn the key with the steering wheel in different spots (from lock to lock, which is only about an inch both ways).
I did try to take out the key cylinder but, since the key wont turn, the cylinder wont unlock. And I also tried to start the car by removing the ignition box (moduel) and pushing the peg on it to start. It did get the fuel pump to come on but once in start mode, it shut off. I'm assuming it's the PATS thinking someone is trying to steal the car, so it wont start.
Does anybody hane any ideas on what I can do to get the key to turn?
I can easily take the coulmn out, cause EVERYTHING in my car is removed, due to some weight reduction plans, and bring it too a ford dealer. If they can take the key cylinder out and put a new one in and give me a new key, or if they can unlock it.
Thanx for any ideas or info.
 

Dylan

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no, but I'll certainly try it.
I think all I have on hand is some wd40, is their any partiuclar kind, that might work better than wd40? I got to go to the store tommorrow anyways.
 

SHOZ123

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WD would work. They usually recommend graphite for locks though. But I would use a solvent type cleaner such as WD first.
 

Dylan

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I trieed the Ec today with NO luck.
Could the PATS have anything to do with it, would I need a new key repreogrammed??
 

Dylan

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Damn i guess i should re-read my post before posting it :nut: .

I meant "I tried the WD today with no luck".

And I pertty much tried it with the wheel all the way to one side and the other. But with the steering wheel locked, it doesn't move much.
I did try to take the key cylinder out with pokeing at the ball bearing underneath it. Is it possible I jammed the ball up into to much?
 

93rev2sev

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No, if your wheel is stuck. You have to really crank it to one side and maybe crank the key a little, too.

UNLESS...the key or cylinder is damaged.
 

SHOZ123

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Here's a TSB

Article No.
01-21-13 DRIVEABILITY - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC) P0500, P1502 AND/OR U1039 CONTINENTAL MODELS ONLY - STICKING OR BINDING IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER - HIGH EFFORT WHEN TURNING IGNITION SWITCH
ELECTRICAL - STICKING OR BINDING IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER - HIGH EFFORT WHEN TURNING IGNITION SWITCH

Publication Date: OCTOBER 22, 2001

FORD: 1998-2002 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, TAURUS
1998-99 F-250 LD
1998-2001 EXPLORER
1998-2002 E SERIES, EXPEDITION, F-150, RANGER, WINDSTAR
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2002 EXCURSION, EXPLORER SPORT
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC
LINCOLN: 1998-2002 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY: 1998-2002 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
1998-2001 MOUNTAINEER


ISSUE:
Some ignition switch lock cylinder assemblies may exhibit the following highly intermittent conditions:

Roughness and/or excessive effort in turning the key from RUN to START position.
Key does not fully return from START to RUN after starting vehicle. This may result in intermittent accessory function.
Continental ONLY - A malfunction indicator lamp may illuminate with diagnostic trouble codes P0500, P1502 and U1039 stored in the Powertrain Control Modules (PCM) memory.
This may be caused by a Key-In-Ignition warning chime switch.


ACTION:
Replace the KEY-IN-IGNITION WARNING CHIME SWITCH located on the ignition switch lock cylinder with revised part XL2Z-11A127-AB. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Disconnect the battery ground cable and wait at least one minute.
Insert the ignition key and turn it to the RUN position.
Insert a punch into the access hole (located in the lower steering column shroud, below the lock cylinder) and press the release button while pulling out the ignition switch lock cylinder.
NOTE: SOME VEHICLES DO NOT HAVE AN ACCESS HOLE AND REQUIRE LOWER SHROUD REMOVAL. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE MODEL WORKSHOP MANUAL, IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION SECTION 211 IF ADDITIONAL DETAIL IS REQUIRED.



Remove the Plastic Key chime warning switch by prying upward on the plastic retainer, while sliding the switch away from the key insertion end (Figure1). Refer to the appropriate model Workshop Manual, Key-in-ignition warning switch removal and installation section located in Section 413 if additional detail is required.
Install a new Key-In-Ignition warning chime switch XL2Z-11A127-AB and reinstall lock cylinder.
Verify proper function of the Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder and Key-In-Ignition warning chime switch.
 

Dylan

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Thanx for the TSB Paul
But as I was reading it. In the procedure section, to fix the problem. They say to remove the ignition cylinder. And to do that the key must be turned. And teh key wont turn.
I treid the WD but didn't help.
After awhile, when I get closer to finishing the car and if I haven't figured it out yet. I'll just take the steering cloumn out and bring it to the dealer and see what they can do.
 

Dylan

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Sorry guys, but apperantly I need to be slapped or something.
It turns out today when I was sifting through my drawer looking for an extra relay, I found another key. And I thought it was a key from my old gen3 Tec. But at the same time I was woundering if I put the wrong key on the key chain. I have a special Ford key chain that I was going to use for the key to my better gen3 tec and I thought that was the key that weas on it. Until I saw the other key i my drawer. So, on my way out to the store tonight I checked to see if this new key would turn. And thank god it did. I was so happy.
But since it's already Sun night when I figured this out, I'll need to wait till next weekend before i put a few things back together and start her up for the first time in maybe 8 months.
But thanx for all your guys help and info.
I feel stupid that it's my fault:nut: but glad it was nothing but the wrong key.
Case closed
 

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