Keep getting p0302 code

[yaycandy]

Sorta back near topic but ive been reading up on oil studys for ecoboost and i looked at a few mostly for ecoboost in general but they all have really similar results. I found one for a study conducted on the 3.5l ecoboost for an f150 i think and its really good one. Now its amsoil but even on amsoil’s page they were not the best for gdi tt engine for low oil deposits. Winner is actually surprising given how cheap it can be gotten at walmart for a 5quart but thats where they get us on our 3.5ls because they need 6 quarts and usually that single quart bottle is 10$ alone. But all i used in my sho was mobil 1 full synthetic but then again the engine was a ticking time bomb ready to go anyway so i dont know if mobil 1 worked well or not in it. Winner wasnt Mobil 1 either

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/motor-oil/articles/turbochargers-and-synthetic-motor-oil/

 

[yaycandy]

Just an independant study but i did my own independant study with results on this thread lol. Run a 3bar 93 octane tune hard everyday with 9-10k mile oil change intervals while hitting the rev limiter multiple times a day. Play stupid games, win stupid prizes. More like win a 10k$ Engine and Twin Turbo repair

 

[SHOdded]

Incomplete test results that you are looking at, they have far more comprehensive tests, specifically on 5W30s, that they have done in the past, but they are almost 6 years old, IIRC. Amsoil was at the top or second or so in every one of those tests. Yet, it is noted by no one in as many words that forced induction engines are special operating conditions. Running oils for 25K like AMSOIL claims for normal conditions is foolhardy. Mobil1 is a good oil, but by that standard, so is Super Tech. The proper OCI for the oil in question (assuming full synthetic) is more the question than the oil these days. A simple Blackstone Labs type analysis helps figure that out.

A strong basestock is essential tho, because that can lessen the need for additives, which whether in fuel or oil, add to the issues with LSPI. Difference being, fuel is MEANT to be consumed, oil is not (not really) in 4 cycle applications. So you see the move away from a large amount of detergents, away from ZDDP and Moly to Boron, etc. But without those additives, you will decrease the life of the oil, as the weight is on the shoulders of the base stocks. Hence the necessarily limited lifespan of modern oils.

And since you admittedly thrash the fluids in your vehicles, they are in Extra Special Operating conditions, and should be closely analyzed as well in YOUR application. Since you are a triple engineer, you know better than to ASS U ME

 

[yaycandy]

Incomplete test results that you are looking at, they have far more comprehensive tests, specifically on 5W30s, that they have done in the past, but they are almost 6 years old, IIRC. Amsoil was at the top or second or so in every one of those tests. Yet, it is noted by no one in as many words that forced induction engines are special operating conditions. Running oils for 25K like AMSOIL claims for normal conditions is foolhardy. Mobil1 is a good oil, but by that standard, so is Super Tech. The proper OCI for the oil in question (assuming full synthetic) is more the question than the oil these days. A simple Blackstone Labs type analysis helps figure that out.

A strong basestock is essential tho, because that can lessen the need for additives, which whether in fuel or oil, add to the issues with LSPI. Difference being, fuel is MEANT to be consumed, oil is not (not really) in 4 cycle applications. So you see the move away from a large amount of detergents, away from ZDDP and Moly to Boron, etc. But without those additives, you will decrease the life of the oil, as the weight is on the shoulders of the base stocks. Hence the necessarily limited lifespan of modern oils.

And since you admittedly thrash the fluids in your vehicles, they are in Extra Special Operating conditions, and should be closely analyzed as well in YOUR application. Since you are a triple engineer, you know better than to ASS U ME

No no, i dont know better than to ask the forum here. Many many majors in engineering, none of my 3 have anything to do with fluids or internal combustion engines. Ive been learning those the hard way as i roll through life

 

[SM105K]

Incomplete test results that you are looking at, they have far more comprehensive tests, specifically on 5W30s, that they have done in the past, but they are almost 6 years old, IIRC. Amsoil was at the top or second or so in every one of those tests. Yet, it is noted by no one in as many words that forced induction engines are special operating conditions. Running oils for 25K like AMSOIL claims for normal conditions is foolhardy. Mobil1 is a good oil, but by that standard, so is Super Tech. The proper OCI for the oil in question (assuming full synthetic) is more the question than the oil these days. A simple Blackstone Labs type analysis helps figure that out.

A strong basestock is essential tho, because that can lessen the need for additives, which whether in fuel or oil, add to the issues with LSPI. Difference being, fuel is MEANT to be consumed, oil is not (not really) in 4 cycle applications. So you see the move away from a large amount of detergents, away from ZDDP and Moly to Boron, etc. But without those additives, you will decrease the life of the oil, as the weight is on the shoulders of the base stocks. Hence the necessarily limited lifespan of modern oils.

And since you admittedly thrash the fluids in your vehicles, they are in Extra Special Operating conditions, and should be closely analyzed as well in YOUR application. Since you are a triple engineer, you know better than to ASS U ME

I run Mobil One. I change it every 3k miles. Frequent oil changes are key.

 

[yaycandy]

I run Mobil One. I change it every 3k miles. Frequent oil changes are key.

Thats usually what i run. My old cts v said to run mobil 1 and my corvette now says to run mobil 1 on the cap. So if gm trusts them with their high performance pushrod engines then it must be good

 

[SM105K]

I just don't let the oil break down....period. 45 bucks every 3k miles (less if I have taken the car to the track a bunch during that oil cycle) is a no brainer.

 

[yaycandy]

I just don't let the oil break down....period. 45 bucks every 3k miles (less if I have taken the car to the track a bunch during that oil cycle) is a no brainer.

Yea i bought the sho for a daily driver. My vette and miata and all my other performance cars get an oil change every 2-3k miles period. I put 40k miles on the sho in 6 months and trusted the onboard oil life counter and always changed it around 5% or so. Roughly 9500 miles because its 10k miles counter

 

[SM105K]

Yea i bought the sho for a daily driver. My vette and miata and all my other performance cars get an oil change every 2-3k miles period. I put 40k miles on the sho in 6 months and trusted the onboard oil life counter and always changed it around 5% or so. Roughly 9500 miles because its 10k miles counter

I get it with the oil counter. Even when I was daily driving it, I still changed it every 3000 miles. I was traveling 500 to 550 miles a week also.

 

[SHOdded]

My Ford Edge says to run BP fuel on the fuel cap LOL. These are all sponsorships, vendors putting brands on vehicles, nothing more. No correlation with quality, other than acceptable.

 

[yaycandy]

My Ford Edge says to run BP fuel on the fuel cap LOL. These are all sponsorships, vendors putting brands on vehicles, nothing more. No correlation with quality, other than acceptable.

I would love to run bp but i only see it in maryland. Pa dosnt have it. Bp is one of top fuel refiners. Bp is castrol also i think. I always got awesome mpg with my V when i was driving from manassas to baltimore daily for a year or so with strictly BP gas

 

[yaycandy]

Dont get me wrong. I have no issue with livernois from a safety and plug and play aspect. No data logging and driving fast needed. Just plug in and go. Simple but if you wanna really get the engine and shift points at their potential then you gotta test drive and tune like every racing series in the world. Only way to get more out of your engine. Racing has done it for over 100years

 

[SHOdded]

I have gotten the best results from Safeway 87 gas on Rt 40 in Baltimore/Catonsville. No joshing. I have tried too many stations/brands to count, and this non-top tier gas has outperformed.

 

[SM105K]

I have gotten the best results from Safeway 87 gas on Rt 40 in Baltimore/Catonsville. No joshing. I have tried too many stations/brands to count, and this non-top tier gas has outperformed.

"QT" fuel has always been the best performing fuel for me.

 

[yaycandy]

I have gotten the best results from Safeway 87 gas on Rt 40 in Baltimore/Catonsville. No joshing. I have tried too many stations/brands to count, and this non-top tier gas has outperformed.

Yea i have gotten good mpg from bottom of the barrel pakistan gas marts. Probably has leaves in the gas but ive gotten real good mpg from some places. Every car is different though. My 90 miata likes 7/11

 

[yaycandy]

I major in aircraft aerodynamics and do have a front bumper being made for my sho from a friend with a body shop. Trying to get it house a large mishimoto intercooler also. And no dont dimple your car. It only works on small circles to cut down turbulance from throwing it all over the place, you actually get better results from ceramic coating. Im still learning about rolling resistance from tires on pavement and width and all because everything i design for flys.
I also dont have access to a windtunnel so everything im testing is on the computer with info from fords public cad files for taurus

 

[SM105K]

My car is ceramic coated. I love it. I am going to bite the bullet and buy the GH intercooler in the next week or so.

 

[yaycandy]

My car is ceramic coated. I love it. I am going to bite the bullet and buy the GH intercooler in the next week or so.

I would, he proved it out and really helped it increase flow and its in the stock location. Win win. I havent seen an installed one yet though. Its behind the radiator for coolant if i remember correctly so it does have blocked flow and a very hot radiator in front of it. Can never go wrong with a front mount, may just ziptie one to the bumper and do some testing to see if it even does make a difference. GH’s makes a huge difference. Either his is figured out good or the stock one was really poor to begin with, but im sure its both

My bad maybe the AC one is in front. I cant remember. Still its next to heat and under the hood

 

[SM105K]

The intercooler is stuck behind the condenser and in front of the radiator. I want to keep mine as stock looking as possible.