******** junk no good for nothin mechanics !!!!

[MailManMike]

About 3 months ago , me and my dad went to my grandfathers car lot where my g-pa had come across a really nice 89' sho . he told me i could have it for my b-day so i took it . he also told me it needed a clutch . well me and my dad decided to mess with it . we went in the car and started it up to hear a metal to metal noise comming from uder the car (the clutch) . the pedal rturn spring is broken so i pulled it out with my foot and the car smoothed out and purred like a kitten . we figured it was the throw out bearing flying around in there so we gave it to these STUPID horrible mechanics to look at . what we think they did was hopped in the car and started it up and walked away without pulling the pedal out and allowing the TOB to fly off causing the pressure plate , cluth disk and flywheel all to come together leaving me with a large "click" noise when i try to start it . so what these idiots did was told us they would fix it for $1000.00 . so the entire time , if we would of went to a different mechanic , i most likely would of only had to pay for a TOB . that makes me mad ! does my hypothesis seem right or is there some other reason im getting a click noise like the starter is trying to turn the engine over with the clutch guts stuck against the flywheel ?

 

[ATXSHO]

Click noise...does it even turn or is it just "click, click" when you turn in the on position to start (first click) and then back, but still in the on position (second click)? If so, get a beat up screw driver or old metal and jump the positive and negative bolts on the starter solenoid located on the driver side in the engine bay mounted up to the fender behind the air box and in front of the strut tower. Do when the key is in the "on" postion. If it starts up, it's the solonoid which is cheap at Autozone (Wells brand). The other clicking/ticking I can think about is a F'd up valve train. eek! I don't know, could be a spun rod bearing. shrug Any other opinion guys? shrug

 

[sdpatt]

The weak link in the SHO's driveline is the mating between the pressure plate fingers and the throwout bearing (TOB). After doing all the work to access the TOB, it would be incredibly foolish to replace only the TOB since the pressure plate fingers would have to be worn to damage the TOB in the first place. If the $31 TOB needed replacing, the pressure plate would need to be replaced too.

The clutch kit with clutch disk, pressure plate, TOB, clutch fork bushings, rear main crank seal, flywheel dowels and lower control arm pinch bolts is only $261 from SHO NUT Performance (www.shonutperformance.com). Add $25 for a flywheel resurface and you have an entirely new clutch.

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<small>[ May 06, 2003, 12:01 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>