Is this a motor mount or something else? Bad vibration...

[flosho]

Spark Notes - Engine vibration..Motor mount or something else?

About a week ago I first noticed this problem. I was sitting in the Mcdonald's drive-thru and its really the first time I felt the vibration. Im sitting at idle in "drive" and I can feel a rumble. Its like sitting in a muscle car I mean it vibrates, from the engine bay, pretty badly. The tach however stays put and does NOT move with the vibration. Also there is no real "time" when it does/doesnt do it, I mean sometimes it wont do it at all, but sometimes you can really feel the vibration.

I did the bad motor mount test, and the engine moves a little but I cant tell if it moves too much, so I took it to my uncle, he's a good mechanic, and tries to help as best he can with my car, but he by no means knows a terrible amount about these cars. He checked it out and said the motor mount wasn't loose and it was what appears to be OK.

On my way home from his house I was cruising along at like ~60 MPH. I was going along with just enough pressure on the gas to keep it at a smooth 60mph and the car started to shake. It kinda feels like a surge, but it also feels like a violent shake. It shakes/vibrates so much that I have to let off. Scares ME! lol.

Also at idle I, in park I popped the hood and you can physically see the engine vibrate/move quite a bit, I popped the hood on my buddy's SHO and my engine definately moves alot more than his.

All this leads me to believe it HAS to be a motor mount. I mean could it be the front MM GOING bad?? Im not exactly sure what my uncle looked at. But he said they were tight. shrug

Im gonna go check the codes right now and see if its a possible sensor? But I still think its a motor mount. Whats your opinion???


Thanks
Jason

 

[JaySHOguy]

It sounds like the engine is misfiring. When was the last time you had the plugs and wires changed? Typically, if a mount is bad, you shouldn't feel it moving too much if the car is moving steadily.

 

[flosho]

Hmm... here are the codes I got, I just got a 60 with everything except water pump. Service was performed at Performance Plus in Madison.

CODES:
157 Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded
172 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

173 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

176 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S

212 Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault

543 Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power
(Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open

Thanks, I really wanna get this thing back to 100% So I can buy some stuff that I really dont need for it.

Jason

 

[flosho]

Any help?? Should I start replacing sensors??? OR what.. I really need to get my car running good again!

Thanks
Jason

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

Check and clean all the grounds you can...replace both 02 sensors and clear your computer...check your fuel pressure using the shraider valve on the top of your intake(little tire stem looking ****) I know I'm not a huge help, but I hope I helped ya out anyway thumb

 

[flosho]

Is it easy to change the O2s? Should be right? Also what should I use to check the fuel pressure, tire gauge??


More help please!

Thanks
Jason

 

[sdpatt]

With the mass air flow (MAF) sensor code, I would hold off replacing the O2 sensors until you resolve that one. The sensors may be reading a true mixture problem due to the MAF error. Your engine sounds like it is misfiring. Failed motor mounts will not cause the engine to move, but they will allow it to move more than it is designed to when you apply torque through the drivetrain.

The SPOUT circuit fault leads me ot have you check the DIS module, its connectors and the ground path to it. Check the braided ground strap to the upper, rear, passenger side intake manifold bracket bolt, the two 12mm bolts that secure the intake balance tube to the front and rear plenums and the four bolts that secure the DIS to the balance tube.

If you haven't looked in the spark plug wells for oil, now is the ime to do it. Oil or water in the wells can lead to grounding and spark misfire that can cause a rich mixture code on the O2 sensors. How long have the plugs been in there? If they are the correct Motorcraft AGSP32PP plugs, they are good for 60,000 miles. Other plugs usually for much less. Use only the Motorcrafts. Your SHO will thank you.

How old are the spark plug wires? They are usually good for about 120,000 miles of use. Sticking with the Motorcraft WR-4033 (also fit the 3.2L) wires will guarantee a good fit and proper function.

 

[flosho]

Well, its too late right now to do anything but I can tell you the plugs dont even have 1000 miles on them. I believe they are motorcraft and the wires are probably the originals except for 1 of them which I had to replace. There isnt any oil in the plug wells(shouldnt be have less then 1000 miles since the 60k). Ill check tomarrow for sure. I'll also check the DIS.

Is there any way to clean the Coil pack? It looks pretty grimmy. I'll see what tomarrow brings me!

What can I do to solve the MAF code? What can I use to clean the electrical connections of everything?

Thanks for your help thus far
Jason

<small>[ July 21, 2003, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: flosho ]</small>

 

[Machspeed]

Try cleaning the maf. I remeber my moms explorer vibrated pretty bad. Turned out it was an 02 sensor. If you havent replaced them in a while you muight as well do it, it'll cost ya about 80 bux for 2 sensors are its easy to do.

 

[flosho]

Is there any way to check if my O2 sensors are bad?

Also could my ECT sensor be the problem if that orange tip on the sensor is broken? Im not sure if it is, I'll check tomarrow but could that cause the MAF code?

Thanks
Jason

 

[Machspeed]

Didnt you run codes? shrug

 

[flosho]

LMAO...Hmmm, yeah I ran the codes. Not sure what I was thinking it was 1 AM though. Anyways I played around with a few things this morning, took some stuff off and cleaned some grounds. Its fixed for now, I think it was just as simple as a plug being loose, the far right-back plug was a little twisted, I think it was loose and when I checked for oil I put it back on and solved the problems.


Thanks for all your help guys
Jason

 

[flosho]

Ok more problems! It was running better but tonite after work it would **** on my if I came to a stop, just about every time. I would coast to a stop and it would basically **** as soon as I was stopped. NO CE light though? Then it started missing again.

Could it possibly be because I put 89 in instead of 93 oct? Its the first time I've ever put anything other than 93 oct in.


Thanks
Jason

 

[Machspeed]

Almost sounds like cps or 02s.

 

[flosho]

The vibration goes away around 2000 rpms. I put it in park and at ~800rpm it vibrates and around 2k it smooths out and no longer virbates. Does this help anyoen at all?


Thanks
Jason

 

[projectSHO89]

flosho:
Ok more problems! It was running better but tonite after work it would **** on my if I came to a stop, just about every time. I would coast to a stop and it would basically **** as soon as I was stopped. NO CE light though? Then it started missing again.

Could it possibly be because I put 89 in instead of 93 oct? Its the first time I've ever put anything other than 93 oct in.


Thanks
Jason

Octane has absolutely NOTHING to do with your stalling.

Stalling is often caused by a problem with the IAB valve.

Steve

 

[flosho]

I really dont wanna buy oxygen sensors if I dont have to...But I probably gonna as 'posta change them every 60k. The CPS shouldn't be bad, it was replaced when performance plus did the 60k.


Thanks
Jason

 

[PMD Power]

My stock O2's lasted till 157K but I didn't know they were the stock ones when I changed them... But general rule of thumb is replace them every major tune up (60K)

 

[flosho]

OK.. Update. I ran the codes again for KOEO and KOER

KOEO:
-543 fuel pump shows no power???

KOER:
-117 ECT low or grounded
-172 o2 sensor not switching ws lean single, right, or rear 02
-136 o2 sensor not swithcing, system lean left or front 02

then 538 and 632 but i forgot to "GOOSE" it and the O/D didnt work.

Also, when I take off, it sounds like it has an exhaust leak, or soemthings rattling. Could my cat be clogged, leading to bad o2s and cause my problems?? I dont notice any real significant power loss, and it still throws me back at 30mph. shrug

Thanks
Jason

<small>[ July 23, 2003, 09:25 PM: Message edited by: flosho ]</small>

 

[SolidState]

you will get 542 and 543 if the car stalls. Or if the O2s are bad. Back when my O2s were bad, I got 543 inevitably when I got 176/177. Another member on the board here pointed me that way.

FWIW, my maf is acting up at the moment causing a lean condition. The car vibrates a little as it isn't getting the proper A/F mixture. Sometimes it is spot on, other times it isn't. It also makes my car seem sluggish.

Looking back now, it feels good not to have seen a CEL now for over two months and 5k.....plus, the o2s really helped with driveability. For the 45 or so bones, I think is well worth the time and effort to get under there and change them....

<small>[ July 23, 2003, 10:46 PM: Message edited by: SolidState ]</small>