Interior electronics

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Got some cash and some time and need to do some cosmetic things.

So, My gauge cluster lights went out the other night. My Dash board is currently apart so the fix should not be too hard.

What are the part numbers for the bulbs? Do I need to rip the whole gauge cluster out of the dash? Pictures would be helpful.
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My rear windows squeak on the way down. Never had this problem before so I have no knowledge on the topic. Is it the window actuator?

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My interior lights on the ceiling, passenger bulb went out. How do you pop it out to access the bulb?

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I know this should be in the classified section but does anyone have the silver cable that connects the radio to the amp in a NON JBL system?

The cable end is shot and I have no audio coming from my Alpine headunit the previous owner installed.

(Yes I know this is in the ETAC spot, I was working on a mod, not going well.)
155648_468488970263_548380263_6177832_1465522_n.jpg
 

St Louis SHO

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It's all good. Just wanted to save you time, as it comes in any Taurus with Premium/JBL sound. :thumb:

EDIT: Is your amp hooked up, or bypassed? I've seen the factory amps go bad without warning. I have a bypass wire if you need it. Or, is your cable actually broken? A loose head connector (which I see in the pic) wont do what you say with no sound unless its detached.

EDIT 2: The cluster bulbs are 194's IIRC
 
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I connect everything back up to the alpine head unit, I hear no static from the radio or any audible noises coming from the speakers.

The connection on the silver cable is broken, if you can see that.

That is why I believe that is the problem.
 

hawkeye18

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Dash lights are indeed 194. They're not too bad to replace; worst part is getting the f***ers out. Forceps wrapped in electrical tape work well. Hemostats are best, but understandably most people don't have them. I use them for soldering work.

Rear windows squeaking is usually loss of lubrication in the window tracks, or the rubber seals at the edges. The fix for both is moar ****, but door panel removal is required to get the tracks. Also, there are more rubber seals behind the panel. There is a special aerosol spray lubricant for window tracks, but lithium grease or (in a pinch) WD-40 works as well.

The ceiling map lights (assuming you have a moon roof) are accessed by sticking a screwdriver into the inboard side of the lights (by where you push on them) and prying them out. Just be gentle at first, it doesn't take much force.
 
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Dash lights are indeed 194. They're not too bad to replace; worst part is getting the f***ers out. Forceps wrapped in electrical tape work well. Hemostats are best, but understandably most people don't have them. I use them for soldering work.

Rear windows squeaking is usually loss of lubrication in the window tracks, or the rubber seals at the edges. The fix for both is moar ****, but door panel removal is required to get the tracks. Also, there are more rubber seals behind the panel. There is a special aerosol spray lubricant for window tracks, but lithium grease or (in a pinch) WD-40 works as well.

The ceiling map lights (assuming you have a moon roof) are accessed by sticking a screwdriver into the inboard side of the lights (by where you push on them) and prying them out. Just be gentle at first, it doesn't take much force.


Thanks man! No sunroof here :D
 

St Louis SHO

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I connect everything back up to the alpine head unit, I hear no static from the radio or any audible noises coming from the speakers.

The connection on the silver cable is broken, if you can see that.

That is why I believe that is the problem.

Not being a dick, but reread my post. I'm being sincere trying to help. I dont think the cable is your issue.
 
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Not being a dick, but reread my post. I'm being sincere trying to help. I dont think the cable is your issue.

Oh no no, I know your not trying to be a dick. I thank you for your help.

I turned my radio all the way up to maximum volume, and nothing.

What doesn't make sense is if the amp did go, how in the world did it? I didnt undo and connections and expose wiring or anything that would cause a short.

I use the radio daily and it doesnt make sense for something just to "go" like that.

Im just trying to think this through. Correct me if I am wrong, I dont nearly have the knowledge that others have.
 

hawkeye18

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Thanks man! No sunroof here :D

In that case, there are two little slots on the back of the clear plastic cover for you to stick aforementioned screwdriver into. You will have to use 521-style bulbs (festoon bulbs), I think. Just take the old one into advance auto parts and match them up.
 

St Louis SHO

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Like I said in my post above, the amp can just go without warning. I'd check that first. Do you have a stock radio or amp laying around? With the stock radio turned all the way up, it will be really really quiet IIRC.
 
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No stock audio parts laying around! I am gonna do what I can later on this week to try and fix this mess.

Hawkeye-thanks!
 

Rubix

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This is an obvious thing... but with all these things "going out" have you checked your fuses? Something is popping somewhere, unless your bulbs all happen to be ending their lifespan simultaneously.
 

kevinspann

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Is it fixed or not?

What plugs are you using to hook up the radio? The ones that plugged into the stock headunit, or the extra plugs to the left of the radio that you can use instead to bypass the amp?
 
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Kevin- I am using the factory plugs.

St Louis- I apologize cause I only put "facepalm"... thanks for keeping me in check...
 

kevinspann

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Try using the ones that are to the left of the radio, they should be held in the dash with a christmas tree clip.
 

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