Installing gauges

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zblackbeast

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Mkay, since im trying to be cost effective and i liked the way these looked i bought them.. So my oil temp and water temp look like this with the brass rod on them.. I think the Oil temp will be easy.. just gotta tap a hole in the pan.. i can do that when i do the rod bearings, but the water temp one kinda has my scratching my head. I was hoping it would be electrical so i could just use the sensor on the front head that the factory gauge uses.. My question is, where do i drill this puppy now? I don't want to tap the radiator because its, well, plastic. Ha.. any ideas? Looks like this.. oh, and no ***** jokes prease! :)

0513001321
 

LOUDSHO92

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Just make a T off the stock locations. Though I would get an oil pressure over oil temp.
 

zblackbeast

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ive got oil pressure already.. i just got these 2 in the mail today! :) I wasnt sure if the "t" would work for that too.. Heck, could i also use the t im going to use for the oil pressure with the oil temp too?
 

zblackbeast

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Thanks.. can i do away with the sensor they gave me and splice the wires into the factory sensor?
 

Racer X

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If your doing the rod bearings,look up on the block you'll see a 1/2" or 3/8" plug in the back side of the block facing the fire wall.Thats where I installed mine and wrapped it with DEI's heat tape.SHO005 1
If there's no issues with the water being cooler that low down, this is a genius idea for the water temp sensor location! And to think I was going to replace the stock gauge sender...

How has it worked for you so far? And what size is the thread of that plug?
 

NEp8ntballer

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If there's no issues with the water being cooler that low down, this is a genius idea for the water temp sensor location! And to think I was going to replace the stock gauge sender...

How has it worked for you so far? And what size is the thread of that plug?
if anything I'd think it would read higher since it's in the middle of the engine block. Water has a very high specific heat so anywhere in the block should be the same to within a few degrees. Plus there is always some sort o inherent inaccuracy with a gauge anyway. about the best way to test the accuracy of your gauge would be to put the sender in some boiling water and see if it reads 212*F
 

Racer X

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And also on the oil pressure sender... VDO makes a sender with a low pressure switch that closes at 8 psi. Is VDO the only gauge manufacturer with this combo sender/ switch? If not, why don't more people go that route than the whole T fitting shenanigans?
 

92sho16

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nope,they operate on a different frequency.

Uhh, what? I'm pretty sure that ect sensors are thermistors, the problem lies within is the stocker the same temperature coefficient as the aftermarket one.(read when temp goes up resistance goes down or up).
 

92sho16

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Just make a T off the stock locations. Though I would get an oil pressure over oil temp.

Installing a t fitting for oil pressure works because pressure is pressure but the water temp you want the sensor in the flow of coolant to get an accurate reading.
 

Racer X

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Uhh, what? I'm pretty sure that ect sensors are thermistors, the problem lies within is the stocker the same temperature coefficient as the aftermarket one.(read when temp goes up resistance goes down or up).
It's more of an issue with the resistance values at a given temperature for one versus the other.

ie. The VDO gauges I purchased have a working range from 10 ohm to 180 ohm over it's working range, where the stock sender is no where near that, and as such, would not work.
 

K-Dawg

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I think the OP's gauges are mechanical, so he has to use the gauges' bulbs regardless.

IMO, the stock water temperature sender location is the best location for a sender, because you're reading the water temp coming off the heads, which is where the hottest water usually is. I just replaced the stock sender with the aftermarket one. Leaves the stock gauge useless, but who cares?
 
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