Installed Reinforced Mounts..Intake Still Rubs

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Dr.Evil

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I installed a pair of front and back SHO nut Reinforced motor mounts to fix my intake rubbing issue. Well it seems that only made it worse some how. I don't get it. What else could it be? I have to have plates over my nice PC'd intake to protect it and it looks really ghetto and cheap like that. Please help!
 

SHO--ripper

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First off have you ever replaced your subframe bushings? If they are bad your intake will rub. Secondly how does the intake look? Hopefully it turned out well thumb
 

Dr.Evil

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No I haven't...thanks for the tip. Where can I get some new ones? Is there an aftermarket for these?
Here are a couple pics of the intake...
pcintake2.jpg

pcintake3.jpg

thumb
 

yamahaSHO

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Dr.Evil:
No I haven't...thanks for the tip. Where can I get some new ones? Is there an aftermarket for these?
WOW, you have not heard of Aluminum Sub Frame Bushings?? You can get those, as well as police sfb's, at shonut. I think Midwest SHO also sells some Aluminum ones.

The intake looks awesome thumb
 

sdpatt

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Worn subframe bushings should not let the intake touch the hood pad. Verify that the engine is not rising by observing its behavior with the hood up and the parking brake on. There should be no more than about 1/2-3/4" of movement on the forward edge.

When you replaced the mounts, did you notice the condition of the mounting bolts on the engine and the subframe. The subframe bolts should be fine as long as the nuts are installed and torqued, but there have been multiple instances of the front mount's bolts to the A/C bracket that were elongated.
 

yamahaSHO

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sdpatt:
Worn subframe bushings should not let the intake touch the hood pad.
I have read that worn subframe bushings can cause the intake to rub.
 

shoinoff95

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Dr.Evil:
No I haven't...thanks for the tip. Where can I get some new ones? Is there an aftermarket for these?
Here are a couple pics of the intake...
pcintake2.jpg

pcintake3.jpg

thumb
That intake looks great!!! Did you have it powdercoated or did you just use some engine paint?? If you used engine paint, what kind did you use because it looks very shinny or is that because of a clear-coat that you used?? I am wanting to paint my intake when I get my SHO back, but I need to find out what type of paint to use!! shrug thumb
 

Dr.Evil

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It was PC'd...LMK if you want to know who did it...it was a good deal and great service.

BTW how hard is it to change subframe bushings?
 

yamahaSHO

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Dr.Evil:
It was PC'd...LMK if you want to know who did it...it was a good deal and great service.

BTW how hard is it to change subframe bushings?
I would like to know more about your PC "specialist".

Aluminum SFBs
Taken from www.shotimes.com:

"1. Get new subframe-to-body bolts. Don't ignore this. The old bolts are likely to be rusted inside the old isolators. You can get bolts at the dealer as part of an isolator service kit, E6PZ-5A364-A. Each kit has 2 bolts and 2 shouldered washers that you won't need. If you prefer, go to an industrial hardware supply (not your local hardware store! Counterfeit bolts that are weaker than their rated strength are common) and get M12 X 1.5 by 100 mm long, grade 10.9 bolts. Also get steel washers to go under each bolt head; when the bolts are torqued, the hardened bolt heads will gall into the softer aluminum mount and make it difficult to set the torque. I ground the shoulders off the washers from the Ford kit and used those. Some lock washers aren't a bad idea either. You should be getting the impression that these are relatively important fasteners. It's not good when they fall out or break. Use good bolts.

2. Set the parking brake, chock a rear wheel just to be safe, jack the car and support it with jack stands at the rocker panel seam notches just behind the front tires.

3. Start at the rear isolators, replacing them one-at-a-time. Use a jack to support the corner of the subframe that you're working on so it doesn't drop unexpectedly. Back out the large bolt and that corner of the subframe will drop a bit, then you can remove the four 10mm nuts that secure the lower part of the old mount to the subframe. Put the aluminum ring between the subframe and body and slide the lower aluminum piece up thru the subframe and ring. Start the new bolt and washer, wrench it up snug, then back it out about 2 turns, you'll need some looseness so the subframe will drop to replace the other 3 corners.

4. Repeat the previous step for the remaining three isolators, then snug up all four bolts. Now get your torque wrench and set the bolts at 70 to 80 ft-lbs.

5. Off the jack stands."

<small>[ June 17, 2003, 11:49 AM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>
 

91 SHOplus

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The intake will get an up and down rub mark from bad motor mounts. It will get a side to side rub mark from bad sub frame bushings.
 
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