Dr.Evil:
It was PC'd...LMK if you want to know who did it...it was a good deal and great service.
BTW how hard is it to change subframe bushings?
I would like to know more about your PC "specialist".
Aluminum SFBs
Taken from
www.shotimes.com:
"1. Get new subframe-to-body bolts. Don't ignore this. The old bolts are likely to be rusted inside the old isolators. You can get bolts at the dealer as part of an isolator service kit, E6PZ-5A364-A. Each kit has 2 bolts and 2 shouldered washers that you won't need. If you prefer, go to an industrial hardware supply (not your local hardware store! Counterfeit bolts that are weaker than their rated strength are common) and get M12 X 1.5 by 100 mm long, grade 10.9 bolts. Also get steel washers to go under each bolt head; when the bolts are torqued, the hardened bolt heads will gall into the softer aluminum mount and make it difficult to set the torque. I ground the shoulders off the washers from the Ford kit and used those. Some lock washers aren't a bad idea either. You should be getting the impression that these are relatively important fasteners. It's not good when they fall out or break. Use good bolts.
2. Set the parking brake, chock a rear wheel just to be safe, jack the car and support it with jack stands at the rocker panel seam notches just behind the front tires.
3. Start at the rear isolators, replacing them one-at-a-time. Use a jack to support the corner of the subframe that you're working on so it doesn't drop unexpectedly. Back out the large bolt and that corner of the subframe will drop a bit, then you can remove the four 10mm nuts that secure the lower part of the old mount to the subframe. Put the aluminum ring between the subframe and body and slide the lower aluminum piece up thru the subframe and ring. Start the new bolt and washer, wrench it up snug, then back it out about 2 turns, you'll need some looseness so the subframe will drop to replace the other 3 corners.
4. Repeat the previous step for the remaining three isolators, then snug up all four bolts. Now get your torque wrench and set the bolts at 70 to 80 ft-lbs.
5. Off the jack stands."
<small>[ June 17, 2003, 11:49 AM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>