installed moog crossmember repair

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raphy rod

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hello.I have 95 atx.Yesterday I installed the strut rod cup repair kit.It worked out great,just that it was a lot of hard muscle work.you have to pull the strut rod out to do it,just that the inner frame bushing has to be torn out for the rod to be pulled out.then putting the front bushing on was a real pain also_One of my cups were bad,so i replaced both.The one was broken so bad,it could not be welded.It is a good kit to use.Kind of pricey(150.00),but no more problems,For now.Just thought Of letting members know,it works well.Thanks.Have a great day
 

wood_e

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Glad to hear that worked well. I want to have mine welded and I need to have it done.
 

SHOtimer

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raphy rod said:
hello.I have 95 atx.Yesterday I installed the strut rod cup repair kit.It worked out great,just that it was a lot of hard muscle work.you have to pull the strut rod out to do it,just that the inner frame bushing has to be torn out for the rod to be pulled out.then putting the front bushing on was a real pain also_One of my cups were bad,so i replaced both.The one was broken so bad,it could not be welded.It is a good kit to use.Kind of pricey(150.00),but no more problems,For now.Just thought Of letting members know,it works well.Thanks.Have a great day

How long did it take you to do it?

Doug
 

raphy rod

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as far as how long it takes,I think it all depends on how much luck you have with taking out the old inner frame bushings.Also the luck of how well the front bushing will go on.(this was my last procedure to finish the job) It took me and my 18year old son about 3 hours of labor intense work.it's a fairly straight procedure to do this.you need to loan a spindle socket to tighten up the moog kit.The hard part also was deciding to opt for the kit instead of welding.I have a mig welder.I personally thought the kit would be a better choice.just alot of work.good luck with either choice.
 

projectSHO89

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The LCA to Subframe joint is not that hard to separate.

Just remove the nut and bolt, then pry the inner joint of the LCA upward from the subframe (it's a very snug fit) with a crowbar.

Replacement of the bushing itself is possible, however, a shop press is required AND the bushing must be pressed in at the correct depth.

Once the LCA is loose from the SF, it's easier to manipulate the strut rod.

Reinstallation of the LCA to the subframe will require a hammer and some prying/tapping to get the holes lined up. Keeping the LCA-strut rod joint somewhat loose helps. This can then be tightended later.

Steve
 

ant-live

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Does anyone have any pics of how this look or a write..cause i'm having the hardest time with this.
 

raphy rod

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just to mention again,it's not a very difficult job,it just requires alot of patience,muscle power,and luck.I'm sure you will get the job done.It works like a charm.I'm going to look for my digital camera to shoot some pics.My son had it.good luck
 

ant-live

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raphy rod said:
just to mention again,it's not a very difficult job,it just requires alot of patience,muscle power,and luck.I'm sure you will get the job done.It works like a charm.I'm going to look for my digital camera to shoot some pics.My son had it.good luck


Great...I've been trying to get some actual pics for the longest. What size are the bolts on it?
 

Rockledge

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ant-live said:
Great...I've been trying to get some actual pics for the longest. What size are the bolts on it?
What bolts? Are you talking about the Ford Subframe Safety Recall Kit (which consists of bolts, plate nuts and washers) or the Moog Strut Rod Bushing Repair Kit (which repairs the "cups" that seat the bushings where the strut rod attaches to the subframe)?

.
 

raphy rod

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Finally got around to taking a picture of the front of the moog repair kit. I hope everyone else had good luck with this project.



 

masho95

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raphy rod said:
Finally got around to taking a picture of the front of the moog repair kit. I hope everyone else had good luck with this project.




So.... the actual part that busts or becomes loose is behind that bushing in the picture? Just want to make sure I understand before getting more into it.
 

93rev2sev

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Masho,
Yes, the cup is about 1" deep and it sits somewhat flush with the front of the hole. If you can easily remove that bolt and that bushing you will be able to see the receiver. You may need to actually remove the strut rod to get a good view of the weld as the factory weld is on the other side of that bushing.
The strut rod receiver is nothing more than a steel grommet welded to the hole in the frame. If it is moving (even just a little) it WILL make noise.
 
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