Inspect Your Wires for Chaffing!

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hubbardry

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Are there any codes in the PCM? Are there any boost leaks? Is the air filter new? Are the MAP and IAT sensors clean? Is the transmission fluid in the pink of health and at the proper level? When were the engine oil and filter changed? Some of the questions that need to be answered before we can move down the diagnostic path.

I'm new to the SHO and I'm not as mechanically savvy as I should be, but here goes: It's a 2011 SHO. the first week I drove the car all was great. Fast acceleration and take-off. It's gotten sluggish at take off and is idling and starting rough. It seems to be getting worse over time. It feels slower and has less power than my wife's Fusion. The check engine light is not on. I'm not sure if this means that there are no codes? I ordered an inexpensive scanner to check. This should arrive today! The oil had been supposedly changed just before I purchased the car (3 weeks ago) The air filter is OK. I'll pick a new one up. I took out and cleaned the MAP sensors last night and it didn't change the issue. Transmission fluid is at level and is pink. I'm not sure how to check for boost leaks. All hoses seem to be connected as they should. Tonight I'll pull out and clean the IAT sensor.
 

SHOdded

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Hopefully not a fuel injector issue, rather a boost leak ... Faulty purge valve and worn spark plugs are definitely on the table.

Only critical issues set CELs. Codes could still be present. And in today's cars, codes are the first things to check.
 

glockcoma

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I'm new to the SHO and I'm not as mechanically savvy as I should be, but here goes: It's a 2011 SHO. the first week I drove the car all was great. Fast acceleration and take-off. It's gotten sluggish at take off and is idling and starting rough. It seems to be getting worse over time. It feels slower and has less power than my wife's Fusion. The check engine light is not on. I'm not sure if this means that there are no codes? I ordered an inexpensive scanner to check. This should arrive today! The oil had been supposedly changed just before I purchased the car (3 weeks ago) The air filter is OK. I'll pick a new one up. I took out and cleaned the MAP sensors last night and it didn't change the issue. Transmission fluid is at level and is pink. I'm not sure how to check for boost leaks. All hoses seem to be connected as they should. Tonight I'll pull out and clean the IAT sensor.

Any chance you can post a pic of the engine bay so we can see if anything is out of the ordinary.
 

hubbardry

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Sure:
 

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glockcoma

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Everything looks to be in order, no hoses popped off.

You are missing the battery hold down bar though. Not that would cause any of your symptoms, just a heads up.
 

hubbardry

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something interesting: I purchased a OBD reader. It's showing my boost PSI at -8 at idle. When driving it is almost always in the negative and reaches 0 once in a while. Is this a boost leak?
 

Johnbigdog

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something interesting: I purchased a OBD reader. It's showing my boost PSI at -8 at idle. When driving it is almost always in the negative and reaches 0 once in a while. Is this a boost leak?

Is your pid absolute or gauged? :) What does it read key on engine off? Atmospheric pressure at sea level is about 14 psi (28 inches of murcury [in-hg]). At idle, a vacuum will read less than atmospheric tipically 15 to 22 in hg (7 to 10 psi).

Because the engine is a pump, and the throttle body is a relatively closed valve at idle, you will have an inability of the cylinder to fill itself with air. As a result, less pressure in the intake.

A naturally aspirated engine can operate from the vacuum to atmospheric to a slight boost pressure in some instances. (Speaking about ram air)

Boost would be anything over atmospheric.

If your PID is a gauged reading, key on engine off it will read 0 psi. (Its adjusted to read 0 at atmospheric) At idle it may read -8 psi becuase of the lack of pressure in the intake of a good running engine.

Your car (and any boosted car) is not necessarily under boost all the time. Tipically only under load (acceleration) when power is needed to maintain the desired speed or get to speed. So a negative reading or a 0 reading means your operating from a vacuum to atmospheric. Not a vacuum leak, your just driving easy.

If you go WOT from a stop you may see 10 (?) Psi which is 24 psi absolute or 49 in-hg.

Our cars have 2 M.A.P. sensors. One before the throttle body (called the Turbocharger boost pressure sensor), one after (the real manifold absolute pressure sensor). The boost pid you are looking at is a gauged MAP sensor reading if memory serves me right.

Also, our cars are pretty good at setting underboost codes if there is a problem, however underboost may not turn on a check engine light.
 

hubbardry

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Most of what you said went so far over my head, but I'm trying to follow. With the key on and engine off it's reading 0. When I start the Taurus it goes to about -10. WOT gets me to just about 0. I'm using a wifi reader and OBD Fusion App. I have an appointment with a local garage to have them look at my car to see if they can figure it out tomorrow morning. If they can't, then I'll take it to the local Ford dealership.
 

hubbardry

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Today it stalled. When I re-started it I have tons of white smoke coming from the exhaust. Is it toast?
 

Johnbigdog

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Most of what you said went so far over my head, but I'm trying to follow. With the key on and engine off it's reading 0. When I start the Taurus it goes to about -10. WOT gets me to just about 0. I'm using a wifi reader and OBD Fusion App. I have an appointment with a local garage to have them look at my car to see if they can figure it out tomorrow morning. If they can't, then I'll take it to the local Ford dealership.


I will try again. Do you have an air compressor or a tire gauge?

A pressure gauge for an air compressor, or your tire pressure gauge is a adjusted pressure gauge. Meaning that gauge reads 0 psi when at rest. In reality there is about 14 psi pressing down on you at all time. That 14 psi is adjusted to 0 psi.

When you check your tire pressure, the pressure captured is above atmospheric and pushes the indicatoe out showing the pressure is above the atmospheric pressure of 14 psi.

If you reduced the pressure in the tire enough, the tire gauge would be sucked in to show the negative pressure, however most tire gauges dont read a vacuum.

The white smoke from the exhaust and you mentioning a lack of pressure could very well mean a turbo failed and is dumping oil in the exhaust.

Your Taurus isn't toast just with the wite smoke. It will have to looked into further.
 

hubbardry

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I get it. Thanks for explaining it to me. At this point getting a "good deal" on this SHO is turning out to an adventure!
 

MHW100

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Matt of GH mentioned I may have the knock sensor chaffing issue. I have a 2018 and the wire is on the block but I don't see chafing and it looks like there may be a donut around the wire where it touches i.e. like Ford fixed the problem in a later model year. Is this still an issue in later model SHOs?
 

SHOdded

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As long as the donut stays intact, I would not think this is an issue. MYs without such a spacer are much more likely to have the issue.
 

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