$#@%^&ing Motor Mount! Help!

[JRA2000TL]

I got another long bolt to replace the missing one in my front motor mount; tonight I attempted to get it back in and ran into problems.

I cannot get the holes to line up correctly for the "top most" longer bolt. I was able to get the bottom (left one if looking through the pass wheel well). No matter how much I adjust the jack raising and lowering the engine, I still cannot get the holes for the right bolt to line up. I even pulled the lower radiator hose loose to give me more room. Didn't have a decent pan handy nor did I care so I just let the damn coolant go all over the garage floor. So I'm lying in a puddle of coolant constantly adjusting the engine height with no luck. The 2 nuts to the far right for the front engine dampener are still in, as well as the large 18 or 19mm nut that connects to the subframe.

I don't think the engine dampener nuts make much of a difference, but should I loosen/remove the subframe nut to get the mount to be a little more flexible/mobile?

After being soaked in coolant and ******, I decided this was not a project for Sunday night at 8pm, so I said eff it for now. Any advice on how to get this thing to line up properly? SHOPhoenix is down, so I can't look at the write up again.

 

[LJRuddy]

Loosen the subframe bolt so you can move the mount around.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Thanks Liberty, that's what I figured. I was in one of those moods where I was tired and didn't feel like messing with this tonight but at the same time wanted it fixed if it only took a few mins--which wasn't the case. I think the mount needs to move moreso than the engine. The top (longer bolt) hole is directly in front of the lower radiator hose outlet tube, which doesn't seem right. Something is out of adjustment.

 

[LJRuddy]

If you take an extra 5 minutes to do a project properly instead of getting ******/lazy you'll end up saving yourself hours of labor later.

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

Spud wrench or a bull ***** helps to line up holes.

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

I always thread the upper of the 2 bracket bolts in a couple, then the bottom. Popped a mount in and had the car back on the ground yesterday in about 20 minutes after we reinforced the mount.

It's always good to step away and cool off for 5 mintes. Come back to in with a fresh perspective.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Thanks, I'll try again tomorrow or sometime this week. Air tools make that subframe bolt a breeze to get on/off, as well as these others. I need to drop the starter also an check the pan. I am having a couple of small droplets of oil leaking from behind and above the starter. Found the big oil leak is coming from the far rear cam seal.

I did the walk away thing a few weeks ago..struggled for probably an hour w/ the oil pan b/c the mount was in the way. Got ******, put up my tools for the day; came back the next day and had it back on in 10 min.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

one of the bolts is blocked by the lower rad hose. having the subframe bolt removed and the lower rad hose off should give you all the wiggle space you need to get it lined up.

 

[kevinspann]

Spud wrench or a bull ***** helps to line up holes.

What now?

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

lol.

used to use one of these to line up steel for bolting together when I was slapping together pallet rack, and airport conveyor.

you just jam the pointy end into what you're trying to line up and use it for leverage, then support what you just moved and jam your bolt in once it's lined up.

I guess most people call em drift pins, when there isn't a wrench head on the end of em.

I grew up hearing them called bull ******, big steel spike you would drive into the ground and tie off rope.

I saw a guy get hit in the mouth with a spud wrench once. only took the one time...

*disclaimer: Drinking pretty hard this AM. just got off work*

 

[turbo79]

lol.

used to use one of these to line up steel for bolting together when I was slapping together pallet rack, and airport conveyor.

you just jam the pointy end into what you're trying to line up and use it for leverage, then support what you just moved and jam your bolt in once it's lined up.

I guess most people call em drift pins, when there isn't a wrench head on the end of em.

I grew up hearing them called bull ******, big steel spike you would drive into the ground and tie off rope.

I'll second this: a good sized tapered drift pin/bull ***** is really an invaluable tool for aligning bolt paths. Besides motor mounts, I use one for aligning the bolt path for the LCA/steering knuckle connection, rather than just tapping on the bolt itself.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Fixed! :thankyou:

Still have what seems like more than average "gear lash" when I let off the gas. Maybe I need a rear mount too. Front is nice and tight though; car even seems less "clunky" when hitting bumps or pulling into the driveway.

 

[kevinspann]

Yes, you probably need a rear mount if it's jerking when letting off the throttle.