ignition switch problem

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zach44102

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Same place you found the ignition lock cylinder, dude. Look like, two listings down.

Since you seem to be having trouble understanding what everybody else is saying:

CHANGE YOUR IGNITION SWITCH! IT'S NOT THE LOCK CYLINDER!

ok well what about the wire im talking about?
 

zach44102

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today i pulled the ignition switch it self out to see if i could tell if it was broken. once i got it pulled it seemed like it was working mechanicly.... the only way it could be bad would be electricly. does anybody have any input? if a new lock cyllinder and switch dosent fix this what should i look at?
 

kevinspann

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today i pulled the ignition switch it self out to see if i could tell if it was broken. once i got it pulled it seemed like it was working mechanicly.... the only way it could be bad would be electricly. does anybody have any input? if a new lock cyllinder and switch dosent fix this what should i look at?

The thing in between them...
 

kevinspann

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:snicker:smartass lol......actuater rod? that involves a parts car right? does it also involve me removing the steering wheel?

If that's what it is...it looks like it. You can probably get them at a dealer. I would think the ignition switch would go bad first, I.E. what Racer X said. He's been around longer than us n00bs...
 

zach44102

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ill update tomorow and if the switch and lock cylinder dosdent fix it i guess ill be making a trip to ford or a junkyard
 

zach44102

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omg!!!! a new ignition switch and lock cyllinder didnt fix it.... does this mean its that plastic rod within the steering colum? how can i get one? how do i get to it? i can move the rod within the steering colum freely...
 

hawkeye18

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That's just friggin' weird, man. Did you check the wiring behind the ignition switch for melted or shorted wires? At this point, I think it would have to be the rod. And I have no clue whatsoever how to get it out.

At this point I think it'd be easier just to wire a switch to the crank position sensor input... turn that switch off to turn the car off. lol
 
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jonheese

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At this point I think it'd be easier just to wire a switch to the crank position sensor input... turn that switch off to turn the car off. lol
Yeah, but then wouldn't the "Hot in Run" circuit be hot all the time? i.e. accessories on all the time.

It would be a more complete solution to just replace the ignition switch with a simple toggle switch on a panel, which is exactly what we convinced Zach not to do, and that's how he ended up here... :biggrin:
 

sperold

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The nice thing about the SHO is that it uses all the Taurus equipment. In a case like this where something is horribly wrong, one solution would be to get another complete column.
You can dissect the Taurus column to get the parts you need for the SHO, or if you are having trouble with the multi-switch or anything else, you can swap in the whole column.
 

kevinspann

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Though, he has an MTX, so he would need to put the key release onto the different column. Not sure how difficult that is.
 

zach44102

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at this point i think its the rod.... the plastic slider is no longer attached to the rod and moves freeley... ill be stopping by ford today to see how much they will rip me off. finding a mtx sho to pull a ignition out of seems impossible because sho are not common where i live and junkyards do not have them. thankyou for everybody help and ill keep you guys updated.
 

shoon

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Do you have a remote starter installed in your car?

is it possible you somehow activated the turbo timer on it??
 

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