Ignition Cylinder Replacement please help

[revhardSHO]

Bad ignition cylinder on an 89 (its not the column). I have two extra columns one from a 91 and one from a 94, can I swap the ignition cylinder out from one of these and put it in the 89? A search revealed that replacement is not a very hard task but that the cylinder needs to be in the run position in order to swap it out. The 89's cylinder is stuck in the lock position. How can I get around it. I have it stripped down to the column now so it shouldnt be very hard to get it out but i cant get it in the run position. Any help would be appreciated. The car is stuck in a parking lot across town and Id like to get it home tonight. If all else fails is there anyway I can hotwire the thing to get it home? Ford wasnt very complicated back in 89 so I imagine it cant be that hard to do.

Per Masho95 and SHOZ123's posts, here are the removal/installation instructions:

First take off the lower steering column shroud, which should be held in by like 3 or four screws. Next look underneath and you'll see a small hole a couple inches down from where you put the key in (ignition cylinder). Turn the key to run and use an appropriate pin punch or something similar and push up in the small hole. Then just pull to the right on the ignition lock cylinder (grab it by the black part where the key sits). It should come right out. Installation requires you to just line up the new ignition lock cylinder in the correct position and just push it in. And finally to set it in position turn the key to accessory and press the key release tab and then turn it to run again (this releases the ignition lock cylinder retaining pin and locks the new ignition lock cylinder in place).

Disconnect battery.

Insert key and turn to the on position.

Push up from the bottom under the cylinder into a hole with a 3/16" drill bit or something similar turned backwards.

Release drill bit pressure and pull out key and cylinder.

Install by reversing these directions.

Do I need to change the directions at all to do this with the cylinder in the lock position?

Thanks

 

[stangconcepts]

I have had the same problem on one of my mustangs and it is the same to remove.what you need to do is take a drill bit the same size as the little peg that you would push in and just drill it out.Then you can pull the switch out.You will not hurt anything but when putting in the new one you need to Reach in the hole where the switch was and turn the roller in there I think I used a flat screw driver,but that might have been on a GM,just look in there and turn it to the same position as it would be with the key in the on position.Then you should be good to go

 

[revhardSHO]

Thanks for the reply. Since my cordless is burnt out, the car was on the other side of town stuck in a parking lot, and it was snowing out, I had to take drastic measures. Lets just say I forced the issue. :evil_gri:

Pictured is the mangled 89 cylinder on the right and the replacement 94 cylinder that will NOT fit. Time for a WTB thread.

 

[stangconcepts]

OUCH Not what I would have done but at least you can start the car cause you dont need the key in it.When mine got stuck I tried a punch to get the pin in and it didnt work and that when I drilled it.

 

[revhardSHO]

OUCH Not what I would have done but at least you can start the car cause you dont need the key in it.When mine got stuck I tried a punch to get the pin in and it didnt work and that when I drilled it.

Its rough, but the whole cylinder is getting replaced anyway so it doesnt really matter. I didnt want to leave the car overnight either so extreme measures were acceptable. I took care not to damage the column.

 

[3.8Lwagon]

the bezel on my ignation switch moves around. is there a wat to lock the bezel back into place?

 

[NoSlo]

Superglue! Cyanoacrylate. Pull the lock out, remove the door chime sensor, and turn the key past start, you can then pull the entire cylinder core out of the body. Center the bezel with the key in the lock. Where the black bezel meets the cylinder core brush superglue into the crack all the way around except near the peg for for the chime sensor. Let it dry and put another coat over the surface, let dry for a long time, use a heater or wait overnight. Reassemble and it should hold for a while more if you don't wrench on the bezel. Also a good time to coat the cylinder with lubricant. Almost free!

 

[Slo-Sho]

Any suggestions on how to remove a lock cylinder w/o damaging the column if I don't have the key?

 

[NoSlo]

Any suggestions on how to remove a lock cylinder w/o damaging the column if I don't have the key?

Here's the procedure from the Helms manual:

1. Disconnect battery ground
2. Remove steering WHEEL
3. Using vice grips, twist lock cylinder cap until it seperates from lock cylinder
4. using 3/8 diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition lock key slot approx 44mm (1 3/4 inch) until lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of lock cylinder. Remove lock cylinder and drill shavings from lock cylinder housing.
5. remove retainer, washer, ignition switch and actuator, Thoroughly clean all drill shavings and other foreign materials from casting
6 carefully inspect lock cylinder housing for damage from the above operation, if damage is apparent, housing must be replaced.

OW! I would call a locksmith and see if they can pick the cylinder and get it out first! If the locksmith can get the key to turn to the 'run' position, then you should be able to push in the pin on the bottom of the cylinder and get it out. You might find a locksmith that has a Ford 'tryout' key set; they can just go through a ring of keys, jiggle them, and see if there is one that will unlock the cylinder. The dealer might also be able to look up the VIN and make a key for you for lots of $$.

 

[SHOZ123]

I had that done in my drive way by a locksmith on another car. Cost $125..

 

[revhardSHO]

Any suggestions on how to remove a lock cylinder w/o damaging the column if I don't have the key?

I intentionally destroyed the original cylinder in the 89, I knew the whole thing was getting replaced anyway. I used a flat-head screwdriver, a channel locks, and a hammer. Break off the cylinder cap and insert screwdriver into cylinder. Use the hammer to slowly wedge the screwdriver in, be careful, and the inner cylinder should crack. Once you remove the locking section you can turn it to the run position and pull the cylinder out.