if some one had...

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MYSHO1

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If some one had a rollcage, tokicos, intrax and aluminum SFB's what else would one need for best autocross times? Also keep in mind is A TRACK only car:wave:
 

MYSHO1

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Shoaz said:
Biggest bang for the buck is driver training.

After that, race tires.

:cool:


Also my next question, what are the best tires i should get i have been on tirerack for a while reading up on all the diffrent one, another thing is should i just get all 4 or just 2 and then 2 really good ones for the rear? What about when they ask if i would like them heated, or shaved?
 

Yamaha V6

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Honestly? A blower's not that important at autocross.

Experience.
Tires.
Suspension.
Quaife.
 

FoeSho

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Yamaha V6 said:
Honestly? A blower's not that important at autocross.

Experience.
Tires.
Suspension.
Quaife.

I agree. There have been many times that I was beat in autocross in my Steeda Mustang by smaller cars with 1/2 the HP. I believe the worst one that beat me was an 84 VW GTi mostly stock, beat my lap times by a large margin in a tight slow 2nd gear track, and I was top of my class too!
 

Jonny Cash

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Rollcage? You plan on flipping the car over? :rofl:

I flipped a SHO with no rollcage, and i turned out ok.

Id say, just strip the car of everything. even the windows. Once you get the feel , youll know what the cars weakness's are.
 

thebigjimsho

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MYSHO1 said:
Also my next question, what are the best tires i should get i have been on tirerack for a while reading up on all the diffrent one, another thing is should i just get all 4 or just 2 and then 2 really good ones for the rear? What about when they ask if i would like them heated, or shaved?
Hoosier A6. Always match the tires, get 4.
 

38SHO

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QUAIFE!

13" cobra brakes

Hoosiers

A properly built cage would rule out Subframe connectors... but thats never a bad option..

probably a 20.6mm front/ 23mm, 24 or 26mm rear swaybar setup depending on your personal choice....

Lighten the **** out of it... this will help the best...

A/C system........ gone
Seats.......... gone
Console........ gone
insulation/sound deadener....... gone
cruise control.......... gone
Catless y pipe to get rid of cats......
2nd gen starter...........
Remove windows
Remove stereo system complete
Remove all unnessecary wires
remove battery to trunk with lightened version
carbon fiber hood
lighter 17" wheels
 

shomesomesho

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more rubber, more HP.....
Don't forget alignment.. dial in a **** load of negative camber in front with radical toe out..

toe out the rear but keep the them as vertical as you can..

at least for autocross, you want the car to rotate like a top
 

MYSHO1

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38SHO said:
QUAIFE!

13" cobra brakes---I have 12.5 Baer/PBR brakes
Hoosiers---- Def need them!
A properly built cage would rule out Subframe connectors... but thats never a bad option.. --- I have the roll cage

probably a 20.6mm front/ 23mm, 24 or 26mm rear swaybar setup depending on your personal choice....

Lighten the **** out of it... this will help the best...

A/C system........ gone
Seats.......... gone``` Where will i sit?
Console........ gone
insulation/sound deadener....... gone
cruise control.......... gone
Catless y pipe to get rid of cats......
2nd gen starter...........
Remove windows
Remove stereo system complete
Remove all unnessecary wires
remove battery to trunk with lightened version
carbon fiber hood---I hated my CF hood, I got another Cincy insted
lighter 17" wheels

What exact calibrations do you guys do for aliment?
 

batchman

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I'm with FoeSHO - spent my first two years with my 99 Cobra chasing a girl in an ****** GT and a guy in a Neon.

Three things are important - Seat time, Seat time, & Seat time.

And the missing piece on your list is brake pads. I like the Carbotech Bobcats but it takes the first run to get some heat in them - then they're great. But my SHO is 90% street so you may want something even more aggressive, at least if you have ABS.

I'm aligned to -1.6 front -.5 (or was it .7) rear, 0 toe all around but again it's 90% street.

- Jeff
 

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