If Compression tests fail?

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Mike Kopstain

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Just a couple hints for you Edian. There is a tool that I use for determining TDC. You stick it in the spark plug hole and it will whistle on the up-stroke until you get to the top. Youcan pick it up at any auto parts store and it's only like $2.00.

Another helpful thing would be to remove all of the spark plugs. This will make the engine much easier to turn as you won't be compressing air.

The tensioner is on the right front side of the engine pushing against the timing belt on side of the belt closest to the firewall.

Personally I think that the timing is your problem. When the computer notices a sensor that is way out of spec it should go into closed loop mode, which is a preset program that uses only the sensors necessary to keep the engine running.
 

sdpatt

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The easiest "tool" to use for determining that the number one cylinder is at TDC is to position the crank damper's white mark to the "0" index on the tab on the lower timing belt cover.
 

shojuan

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Mikeys_Taurus:

Another helpful thing would be to remove all of the spark plugs. This will make the engine much easier to turn as you won't be compressing air.
No need to go to all the trouble to remove the spark plugs if it's not necessary (although since your plugs may be fouled again from the engine being mistimed you might want to change them. At least change them once things are working properly.)

Just buy a piece of PVC pipe that will fit over your ratchet. Should cost about a dollar. 3 feet would do nicely. You can easily turn the crank with the spark plugs installed if you use a cheater like this.

Rick

<small>[ October 21, 2002, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: shojuan ]</small>
 

Yamaha V6

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You should remove the spark plugs from a head when performing a compression check on any cylinder related to that head. Picture a cylinder to cylinder head gasket leak when asking why...

<small>[ October 21, 2002, 06:25 PM: Message edited by: Yamaha V6 ]</small>
 

jcostantino

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Perhaps a vaccum gauge would be helpful? Supposedly they can diagnose quite a few drivability problems and are fairly cheap too. I snagged one from my father and hooked it up to my car and it's running as expected (or at least the idle is).

I was looking through some info and found a graphic that lists the various movements and readings of the needle in regards to mistiming, burnt valves, blown head gaskets, etc etc...

I could find it if anyone wants it...

Jeff
 

MeShoHorny

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Jeff- I was searching all the forums for that info. would you mind posting it or emailing it to me?
TIA,
 

Lance Cheney

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I actually ran my car without a knock sensor for about a month, as I had forgotten to hook it up when I installed my second engine in my car.

It'll run fine, but you'll notice pinging at part throttle on some hills, etc., especially in hot weather. It doesn't affect full-throttle at all, and certainly won't cause engine to not idle, idle poorly, or make clattering noises at idle. You've got something else going on.

-Lance
 

RI-SHO

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Erik is coming down tmw to help me out in all this mayham, I am hoping its just bad timing instead of a bad timing belt tensioner. Yea it makes a lot knocking when it wants to stall roughly at idle.
 

RI-SHO

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Or not, I hope hes ok he hasnt called my cell or anything this whole morning, I told him to be careful in the rain with those bald tires of his.

I'm going to remove the manifold and change the CPS, Knock, and EC sensor myself and just leave the crossover tube off for another day because I dont know if Erik is going to show up now and I work at 2:45 today.
 

Yamaha V6

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jcostantino:
It's a SHO, Definition #2 of calvary works too.

Jeff
"2. A Great Ordeal"

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Jeff, you nailed it. I never even picked up on it. thumbs_u
 

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