Iab

[stevemainian]

Im going to take it off tonight while doing the o2's and check it out because of my stalling problems(reffer to my post "Engine Problems"), and see if that does anything. You guys have any advice on cleaning it, or any tips of even taking it off? I looked at the bolts holding it in, and I have no idea what I should use to get it off. Hopefully my buddy will have the proper tool in the shop where he works.

I hope the valve is just stuck or something, because I cant seem to find the problem. The only thing left after the IAB is the Crank P Sensor/water pump leakge, and possibly some clogged cats.

Its probably the CrankPS, how easy is this to install?

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

I believe a 5.5 mm allen wrench is needed to take it off. I would unplug it first, then take off the top bolt, then loosen the bottom bolt slightly, then rock the IAB back towards the firewall (like spin it), and then take the bottom bolt the rest of the way out.

I found that rocking it towards the firewall helps with the removing and installation of the bottom bolt.

(read other post) After reading it, the symtoms you described could be the IAB valve. After you take it off, a local autoparts store can test it for you to make sure that it works.

If you want to test it yourself, get a 9 volt battery and connect it to the 2 connections on the IAB...when connected, you should be able to see the valve open when looking into the open holes that mount to the intake. When disconnected, the valve shuts (spring loaded I believe)

Hope it helps.. :wave:

 

[stevemainian]

Do I have to worry about those vaccum lines going into the bottom of it? It is safe to unhook them right?

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

There are no vacume lines connected to the IAB.

Be sure to apply a bit of dielectric grease to the connector when you put it back together.

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

Vacuum lines going into the IAB (Idle air bypass valve)? I dont think there are any that go into it that need to be unhooked...

 

[stevetatro]

No vacuum lines. You must be looking at the wrong part? The IAB has one electrical connector and two PITA bolts.

EDIT: Picture from NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...r=15533610&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=80584380

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

The part from napa is the IAB...what are you taking about on the vacuum lines? There arnt any.

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

Do I have to worry about those vaccum lines going into the bottom of it? It is safe to unhook them right?

This is where the vacuum lines topic started...and I have no clue what your talking about unhooking them.

 

[stevemainian]

Nevermind, I just checked. Your right, there arent any on there.

 

[ckinart]

Link to info

Have a look here for some info on how to clean the IAB.

 

[stevemainian]

After reading more there, they said a bad MAF connector could cause it. Whats the best way to clean the maf connector?

 

[stevetatro]

You've probably noticed the two safety torx bolts holding the MAF sensor on. When you remove those you can pull the sensor out of the MAF body and you'll see two metal elements. Sometimes these are fouled due to an over-oiled K&N (or similar) air filter. The oil likes to collect on these metal elements, supposedly causing problems.

I seriously doubt dirty elements are causing your problems, but when you're feeling spunky clean them off anyway. To clean, use some O2-sensor-safe carb cleaner (or equivalent). Don't touch them, just spray and let air dry.

You need to check for codes. If none, you need to diagnose both your spark and your fuel delivery. Time to quit guessing what the problem is!

 

[stevemainian]

Im talking about the connector itself. Not the actually sensor.