I need some brake system guru advice

[JohnW63]

I have a 95 SHO and I don't believe the brakes are working nearly as well as they should. In fact, I can't get them to lock, or engage the anti-lock system. Here are the details.

When I got the car, in about 1998, the brakes were quite good. Much better than my old Pontiac. Over time, in the last 5 years or so, the power of the brakes has faded. To the point, I don't feel comfortable driving it for fear of a panic brake situation.

I just had the front rotors turned.
I have plenty of pad remaining.
I walked through the shop manual and tried these things...

With the engine off, when I pump the brakes, the play in the pedal goes away and the pedal gets really firm.

After doing that, when I turn on the car, the pedal sinks an inch or two, which indicates the booster is doing something.

When I run the car for a minute, and then let it sit for 90 seconds, I got about 1 pedal push of play and then it firms up. The book said it should be at least three to indicate that the boost had not leaked down. I replaced a few hoses and I was able to get three pumps on a second test.

I pulled the hose that comes from the booster to the "manifold" of vacuum lines above the booster and tried to blow back to the check valve. It wouldn't go. I believe this means the check valve is still OK.

I am thinking that maybe my booster has gotten weak. Does this sound correct, or are there other things I should check ? Can these still be purchased, or is this another SHO part that needs to be hunted down ?

 

[shotime1994]

Usually if the booster is bad the pedal will be really hard, or you will hear a "hissing" sound. If the master cylinder is bad the pedal will fall to the floor when pressure is applied. Check the color of your brake fluid if it is black I would flush the system and put fresh fluid in.

 

[JohnW63]

I'll check it, but I know a bled the brakes, the last time I changed the pads, and it wasn't discolored.

 

[SHODWN]

Have you bled the system at all? Sounds like your fluid is Junk.. Also are you still running the stock rubber lines?

 

[JohnW63]

Over the years, I've bled the system each time I change the brake pads.

Yes, I still have all the original rubber lines, with the exception of the right rear, which has a newer stock rubber line.

 

[93rev2sev]

Pads make a huge difference.

If you are getting your pads at Autozone or the like...

Pads with a lifetime warranty stop for nothing...they work...forever...but they aren't exactly "grabby".

 

[JohnW63]

Hmmm. Yes, they ARE AutoZone pads. Would they be hard enough to not even lock the wheels ? If so, what should I get ?

 

[Phoenix]

GEN2 sho brakes are rated below average , dont expect them to do extrordinary things. Theres WAY too much variables to help you find what you need , : Tires , surface , temperature , pads , brake oil , and so forth.....

 

[JohnW63]

As much as I would like this car to be a race preped stopping machine, all I really want is to get it back to a factory standard. I should be able to lock the brakes ( or force the anti-locks to engage ), from 40mph on clean, dry pavement. I'm pretty sure it used to do that.

I have no issues with changing out all the brake fluid. I'm not sure how to tell when the new has forced all the old out , however. I think I tried a few drops of food coloring , at one point, to see when the stuff in the reservoir made it to the bleed valve.

 

[38SHO]

do a 11.6" brake swap and put in some PFC pads from autozone...

 

[JohnW63]

Is that the '96 SHO front brake rotors and pads change, or something else ?

 

[NEp8ntballer]

Is that the '96 SHO front brake rotors and pads change, or something else ?

for a 95 you would need caliper brackets, rotors and new pads.

 

[38SHO]

yup, you need 598 part number pads

rotors off of a 96-99 SHO, any v8 4.6 DOHC lincoln continental, or any 2001+ Taurus/Sable, you will also need to source used caliper brackets off any car that the rotors came off of, the correct caliper brackets will have FN74 stamped onto them, if they don't say that, they aren't the right ones....

its really not hard at all to do, if you can change rotors and pads, then this upgrade is basically the same thing, u just put on different parts when u goto put it back together, no modifications required


it is well worth it!

the only real additional cost is going to be the caliper brackets, as when doing the brakes you would probably be buying rotors and pads anyways, the rotors can be found for about 25 bucks a piece at parts stores... and the bigger pads aren't much of a price increase either

if you goto the junkyard and find the brackets you can do it real cheap

I whent a step above that and pulled the entire brake system off a wrecked sable. it still had all the original Ford stuff on it from the factory, I cut the rotors, sanded the pads down, and it was all great, the factory Ford pads(not motorcraft) are actually pretty decent pads..... going this rate, depending on your local junkyard prices, can cost you about 30 bucks for the upgrade.... I paid 60 for mine, but the junkyard I whent to was a little pricey, and I had to get calipers because I didn't have the right ones...... with a 94 or 95 SHO you already have the right calipers and knuckle for this swap, making it even easier and cheaper to do on those years....

 

[SHOZ123]

CarQuest loaded calipers for the '97 SHO come with the brackets.

 

[speed95]

I thought even a 95 SHO had to use different calipers. I have all the parts but didnt feel like messing with the calipers.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

I thought even a 95 SHO had to use different calipers. I have all the parts but didnt feel like messing with the calipers.

nope. 94s and 95s have calipers that will work on FN74 brackets.

 

[38SHO]

CarQuest loaded calipers for the '97 SHO come with the brackets.

yeah but then your buying the entire caliper which you don't need if you have a 94 or 95 taurus....