I need ideas on changing IAB.

[Rythymaxe]

Can anyone out there please tell me how to get to the bottom bolt on the IAB I'm going to change without having to take the whole tube assembly off? I was thinking an extended allen wrench if I can find one, but if that fails, any ideas or accomplishments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you everyone.

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

I replaced it by taking hte top bolt out and then using the short end of hte allen wrench and loosening the bolt 1/4 turn at a time. I rotated the IAB back and forth with the wrench to get it to work.

 

[K-Dawg]

I've pretty much done the same. After you break it lose, you can sometimes turn it by hand. Definitely get the top bolt out first.

 

[luigisho]

I think what I did was get an allen socket with a few extentions and just easily wrench away. You have to be careful as there is a reusable gasket in there that you don't want to drop into the abyss.

 

[Rythymaxe]

Thank you all for the info, especially about taking the top bolt out first. That's why I love this site and donate to it. Again, thank you people.

 

[itwonder]

X2 -- 1/4" Allen socket and long 1/4" extension to reach to bottom bolt.

 

[Eric VerValin]

In my experience you gotta have a very thin socket / extention to fit around the fuel rail bolt there thats in the way. I did it that way once but had to assemble the extention and bit in peices to get it in there, and even then I couldnt get the socket to actually click on the extention.

Also dont waste your money on those flexible extentions that look like long springs... you'll just ruin it... The way they are made, you uncoil them when you put too much torque on them.. lol

 

[whiteguy3]

^Agreed...There terrible.

 

[Rythymaxe]

Ok, I changed the AIB, cleaned the MAFF, new Throttle Sensor, and tonight, my son installed a new fuel filter for me, after he changed the filter, the car was still fluctuating on the tach. My son was messing with the heater controls and found when he turned the system to off, the tach ran like butter at 900, when any setting on the heater was used, the car would resort to shorting out and dying. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what corrected it? Thank you for your time and knowledge.

 

[Ishodu]

I have used a ¼ drive ratchet with the right length of extension to go back though the more open section between the snakes. And one it was off slotted the bottom hole so that I only have to loosen the bolt rather than remove it for next time.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Ok, I changed the AIB, cleaned the MAFF, new Throttle Sensor, and tonight, my son installed a new fuel filter for me, after he changed the filter, the car was still fluctuating on the tach. My son was messing with the heater controls and found when he turned the system to off, the tach ran like butter at 900, when any setting on the heater was used, the car would resort to shorting out and dying. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what corrected it? Thank you for your time and knowledge.

The first thing I would do is have your alternator tested at your local Autozone. If it checks out good, then you may want to start looking for vacuum leaks.

-Sam

 

[Bob Gervais]

Ok, I changed the AIB, cleaned the MAFF, new Throttle Sensor, and tonight, my son installed a new fuel filter for me, after he changed the filter, the car was still fluctuating on the tach. My son was messing with the heater controls and found when he turned the system to off, the tach ran like butter at 900, when any setting on the heater was used, the car would resort to shorting out and dying. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what corrected it? Thank you for your time and knowledge.

I would disconnect the battery for a while, and perform the idle reset procedure. Could be something as simple as that, since you've replaced the IAB.

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=10161&highlight=idle+reset+procedure

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Ok, I changed the AIB, cleaned the MAFF, new Throttle Sensor, and tonight, my son installed a new fuel filter for me, after he changed the filter, the car was still fluctuating on the tach. My son was messing with the heater controls and found when he turned the system to off, the tach ran like butter at 900, when any setting on the heater was used, the car would resort to shorting out and dying. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what corrected it? Thank you for your time and knowledge.

Sounds like your A/C compressor is dragging down the motor. The compressor will cycle even when you're not using A/C.

Open the hood and watch to see if the compressor engaging is causing the motor to stall.

 

[Rythymaxe]

Mr. Anonymous: Your suggestion sounds plausible, and I will look at the A/C to see if that is the case. If it is, do I need the change the compressor, or can it still be the ATC or the ECT? Thank you.

 

[gmorrell]

I haven't swapped one of these in a long, long time, but I recall the "Old Fart" way of doing it was to remove the top bolt, then rotate the body of the IABV anti-clockwise to 'loosen' the lower bolt, and rotating the IABV body improved access to the lower bolt.

All that said, a 5mm ball-end hex key is you friend in this operation.

 

[Rythymaxe]

I went to a local auto electronics shop and they diagnosed the A/C just as you predicted Mr. A. I unplugged it at the condenser unit so it doesn't read the compressor and am going to look on Ebay for a reman compressor. Thank you for the advice. I love this site.

 

[kevinspann]

If the compressor isn't actually siezed, do what Bob sugggested and disconnect the battery and do the idle reset procedure.

 

[pjtoledo]

I went to a local auto electronics shop and they diagnosed the A/C just as you predicted Mr. A. I unplugged it at the condenser unit so it doesn't read the compressor and am going to look on Ebay for a reman compressor. Thank you for the advice. I love this site.

you may want to go to an AC shop and see if a clogged AC system is loading the compressor too much.
also,the IAC is supposed to add more air to the intake to compensate for the AC load and keep a steady idle


Perry

 

[Rythymaxe]

PJ- I took the car to an A/C shop, where they tested the draw on the A/C, and declared the unit to be the culprit drawing the engine down. I had already put a new IAC in, as I stated in the above post. I have a new compressor/clutch on the way. I called about how much putting the new comp in would be, and they quoted me 250, then said if the system had a lot of metal in it, it would have to be flushed. Can anyone ring in on this procedure and what is realistically possible in the compressor swap?

 

[SHOtime2511]

Its pretty straight forward,I'd make sure they replace some O rings and the dryer as well.