I need a CID (Camshaft?) sensor. Where to buy?

[Ultymte]

I guess its a CID, I just wish I knew what that stood for. I am familiar with Camshaft Position Sensors (CPS) as I have changed them on one my other cars. I pulled a 214 code and my car has sputtered a couple of times so this is the diagnosis. I want to buy this and several other parts for a full 60k service. Where can I get EVERYTHING I need for some descent prices? I'd MUCH rather buy it all from one spot if I could. Let me know, thanks!

 

[Minnesho]

check your ***

 

[Huntervf]

FYI, a CID is the camshaft position sensor, and it won't contribute to a sputtering condition. It WILL contribute to a long/hard start however. The specific description escapes me at the moment, but I recall reading that if the CID fails, the computer will have to "guess" at the position of the cams, and it has a 33% chance of getting it right each time. Nothing will be hurt because of this, but you may have to crank it 3 times to get it fired.

It's been awhile since I read that bit, I think I got it off the old SHOtimes mailing list

As always, our SHOforum vendors are ready to assist you in your 60k needs

 

[Ultymte]

Thank Hunter. I still a little confused though...I posted this thread a few weeks ago and was sure it was the CID that was acting up. Aw ****, here is what I said:

I guess this will be first major problem for me and my few months of SHO ownership. There was pretty heavy traffic on the highway coming home this afternoon. As I inch closer to my exit my car started acting a little foolish. I was tired of working the clutch, so I thought it was just me and my laziness. Then the CEL lit up. THAT caught my attention. RPM's dropped and the car felt like it was going to stall. So I put it in neutral and reved it up a bit. CEL goes off, no worries zzzzz. 20 seconds later it does the same thing , so I did the same thing and again no worries. Everything was fine for the rest of my trip home.

I jumped on the forum and started searching. I need to pull codes. Out comes the handy dandy AutoXray 2000 with OBD I capabilities. I did a KOEO and I pulled a code 111, with MEMORY codes 214, and 542. I'm going to search all the codes, but I'm gonna need some help good people. Should I go do a KOER? What do I have on my hands here, MAJOR stuff or something a little time tools and patience can fix up?

***EDIT/UPDATE*** Through my fabulous search effort I have learned that the 542 could have been caused my a stall event, which I have had a couple since I took possession of the car. So should I reset and not worry about that for now?

I am however a little more concerned about the 214. From what I have read if my pump was indeed going out I would get 2 different codes...please elaborate!

***SECOND EDIT/UPDATE*** Did the KOER test and pulled a 536. Help me out guys, I'm stumped! :cry:

I still have the same codes, and the frequency of the foolishness (as described above) is increasing. Before I invest in a CID, any thoughts on what else it could be, what I should check or do?

 

[Xs SHO 1]

If there's an Auto Zone in "Between Earth and Sky", Wells F134 is what you will need, for the CID its around $35....

 

[Huntervf]

542 is commonly found in memory. It will be set whenever the car stalls, for whatever reason, including just being too quick on a clutch release.

214 escapes me at the moment... is that the CID code? My codebook is all packed away, but SHOtimes has a complete list of them.

The problem sounds more like a bad MAF to me.

 

[Ultymte]

If there's an Auto Zone in "Between Earth and Sky", Wells F134 is what you will need, for the CID its around $35....

Thanks! Pardon my ignorance....Is Wells F134 some sort of part number for the CID sensor? And yes, there are AutoZones here in VA

The problem sounds more like a bad MAF to me.

Can I clean the MAF? I just need to find the d@mn thing....and according to theSHOtimes code list 214 is CID circuit failure. Thanks for your help!

 

[Huntervf]

The MAF is that square black thing mounted on top of the aluminum round this that comes out of the airbox lid. Take off the airbox lid, take off the intake tube that runs from the throttle body to the MAF, then remove the 3 8mm bolts that hold the MAF to the airbox lid. Take the MAF out of the lid, get some electronics cleaner and spray inside the thing

 

[Shuey]

Thanks! Pardon my ignorance....Is Wells F134 some sort of part number for the CID sensor? And yes, there are AutoZones here in VA

That's the correct part# for the CID, for the Wells brand.

 

[sdpatt]

The CID sensor is the "cylinder identification" sensor and that is exactly the signal that it provdes the EEC. I was surprised to find on two occasions of cars that I have serviced that a 214 code and faulty CID sensor can cause an engine stumble during operation. The sensor is held in place by two 5.5mm (7/32') socket headed cap screws and can be replaced without having to move much out of the way. They are quite robust, rarely fail , won't leave you stranded if they do, are reasonably inexpensive and easy to replace. For those reasons, I replace them only when failed and not as preventative maintenance during the timing belt job.

 

[Ultymte]

The CID sensor is the "cylinder identification" sensor and that is exactly the signal that it provdes the EEC. I was surprised to find on two occasions of cars that I have serviced that a 214 code and faulty CID sensor can cause an engine stumble during operation. The sensor is held in place by two 5.5mm (7/32') socket headed cap screws and can be replaced without having to move much out of the way. They are quite robust, rarely fail , won't leave you stranded if they do, are reasonably inexpensive and easy to replace. For those reasons, I replace them only when failed and not as preventative maintenance during the timing belt job.

Great info, thank you (and everyone else) very much! I saw several of your posts through my MANY searches, didnt you have some detailed pictures of an MTX CID replacement on one of your posts?

 

[Ultymte]

:type:

 

[Xs SHO 1]

Only time I see this part fail is when, the cam seal behind it leaks, the oil gets all over the CID....

 

[Electricat]

Just to add to sdpatt's post.....I have also experienced engine stumbling from a bad cam sensor, on two different Fords, the SHO and the 3.8 Mustang I had previous to it.

 

[sdpatt]

I did have a labeled picture from a service on my own car, but I could not locate it. Here is one with a label from Adam Varney's red '93 (RIP).

Her are a couple of other shots from my last timing belt/cam seal/CPS/front main oil seal service on my own car at 269K.

 

[SASHO91]

I will add this...
http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=598370&postcount=4

 

[Ultymte]

'preciate the help everyone! I may have just found someone to work on my car, NCtaurusSHO is very close by so maybe I wont have to tackle this after all!

 

[LOUDSHO92]

It is something that can be done in under an hour. It is relativly easy.