I have changed the CCRM three times today!

[Devon]

I have changed the CCRM three times today! I have a 3.2 swaped in to my 93 MTX I have headers, bbb, stage 2 cams, quafe, eibach springs, Tokico struts, UDP, 17 X 8 rims, 13 in rotors and baer brakes front. and 11.6 rear upgrade.
77mm Pro M

plus 48# injectors not installed sitting in the car at a KFC in QUEENS NYC!:frantic:

so the CCRM's that I have tried are all the M code ccrm's and they all are clicking like crazy when plugged in. some more than others it seems but it is very regular I think it makes no difference. I think they are all good and moving the wires around seemed to make it stop wires around the tranny, fender and driver side fire wall. but just moving wires did not seem to constantly stop the clicking.

I have had this problem before but and been able to start my car. I also was able to start my car a couple of times but no more.

would the crank sensor cause this clicking.

I checked the codes before and the only relivant one seemed to be the fuel primary circuit faillure. I still need to check the codes this time around.

I am going to see if I can get a better ground on every ground I can find.

oh and the tack has been alive the whole time it never fell flat or jump around or anything. other than with the key in the run position it some times would stay at around 800 rpm steady and at other times 400, 200 rpms just lifting up a bit before cranking.

I did have it back fire a couple of times.

I have been using full throttle wile cranking to try to start the engine.

one time go it running in the KFC parking lot it was running so bad I really think it might have been running on one cylinder, because it would not clime over 2000rpm with WOT. it was just popping along consistently I thought which was strange I thought. it would have kept running like that with WOT for a long time I think but I did not think it was a good Idea to do so. so I let off and turned the key off. started it again and it it did it again like that but after I shut it off that time. it never started again last night.

 

[Devon]

I have a sho nut performance fuel pressure regulator and a 255 in the tank so I can hear it running, and most of the time it will not stop running like it is supposed to when you first turn the key to run. and together with the CCRM clicking the fuel pump cuts in and out as it keeps running and running, oh ya and the fan keeps running and turning on and off and when running it too cuts in and out together with the CCRM Clicking. plus the evap purge solenoid is clicking right along with the CCRM. I thought I heard maybe a third thing clicking But I am not sure if it what just the CCRM and the Purge solenoid clicking together and echoing, unplugging the purge solenoid seemed to make no change at all the CCRM continued to Click and Click and at times Click like a machine gun, some times stop and quickly start again. no pattern you don't even have to tuch it and it does all of those things.

 

[hawkeye18]

Did you use the ATX wiring harness or an MTX wiring harness? If you used an ATX wiring harness, you need a J code CCRM... no ifs, and buts about it.

A bad crank sensor will not cause the CCRM to click.

 

[Racer X]

Sounds like a ground or power problem.

Are you in Queens now?

 

[Racer X]

Oh, and check the single wire ground at the battery for the ECU while you're at it.

 

[Devon]

MTX harness and MTX XJ2, and 3.0 injectors installed.

 

[Devon]

yes I live in Queens NYC NOW
and I am in Queens NYC NOW

un till two years ago I lived in Indiana

 

[Racer X]

Did you ever get this sorted?

 

[Devon]

I found a yellow wire with a red stripe if my memory is correct in a wire harness that was between the strut tower and the torque limiting strut on the transmission that was worn in half by rubbing on the bottom bolt of that same strut.

I attempted to solder a wire in place to bridge the gap but I don't know if the connection is good because the wire seemed to have a black coating on the copper braids, I scraped them a bit with a knife and soldered in my patch wire the solder seemed to favor the fresh wire and the first time I checked the solder job I did it came off it seemed to hold much better the second time, so I am hopping this means I got better heat to it and the solder soaked in to the wire.


then I tried to get some codes off of the computer and this did not work by jumpering the test plugs with a simple wire.

the fuel pump did run continuously with little hiccups from the CCRM clicking.

so I unplugged the fan because it kept coming on and off and wile running it Hiccuped every time the ccrm clicked, I unplugged the purge solenoid because it to was clicking along with the ccrm, I then unplugged the Idle air control because I though it was clicking but this time realized something else was clicking and I believe it is all of my injectors! each of them in its own way and some times clicking harder than at other times it seemed. I climbed on top of the engine and put my ear rite over the runners and moved from end to end of the engine and I could hear a bunch of clicking coming from distinctly different places under the runners so I can not think of more than one thing that would be clicking under there other than the injectors!

then I walked over to Auto zone a got a $30 code checker and pluged it in an it started screeming at me flat line. it has a switch for audio on and off (I left it on). and it did this even before I plugged in the single ground wire to it. and did not stop after the single ground was plugged in.

then when I turned the key to the run position I never got an engine light, I realized that never was getting one any way since this episode began. but any way the code checker continued to flat line high noise with added abrupt blips that seemed to co inside with the CCRM clicking, the light on the code checker also acted the same way just stayed on and just hiccuped when the ccrm clicked.

but it never stopped and beeped or flashed like when you are counting the beeps or flashes for the codes on the computer.

my tweecer RT was plugged in to the computer but nothing change when I took it out.

I changed the computer the with another X2J that I had with me, the one I took out of my 93 said it was a 92 computer, and I put my other one in, it had a re-manufactured sticker on it.

the clicking seemed to completely stop for now I am not sure that this is the end of the clicking though because my car still does not run. and I still have no Check engine light and the code checker still does the exact same thing.

I loosened and re-tightened the ground on both the passenger side and driver side fenders, and the on on the fire wall wrenched back and forth to try to scrape the metal and maybe help that one out too.

but still no change.

I don't under stand how the injectors would be clicking when pcm controls them directly and not the ccrm?

at any rate I am still lost and dead in the KFC parking lot. I am scare to take it to any shop here.

oh I also checked all the fuses under the hood on the drivers side and under the dash and they are all fine.
as well as the fire wall n

 

[Devon]

it was a mistake disregard the last line...
as well as the fire wall n

 

[Racer X]

Which KFC? The one Queens Boulevard in Sunnyside? Under the 7 train?

I can swing by maybe tomorrow night.

 

[Devon]

thanks!
Call me on my phone any time tomorrow night (260) 450 - 3455

I sent the location in a pm

 

[firebat45]

I have been using full throttle wile cranking to try to start the engine.

Stop doing this. Do not touch the pedal at all unless you think the engine is flooded. Flooring it will cut the fuel supply to the injectors, so obviously it won't start.

If you think it's flooded, floor it, crank for about 4-5 seconds, then take your foot completely off the gas.

 

[Devon]

thank you for explaining what flood clear means^

I was guessing the injectors clicking wildly indicates that they may have been letting unknown amounts of fuel in. I am not sure though.

I can try cranking with no throttle and see. or part throttle?

I have yet to pull a plug wire and see if I have spark, I don't have a second person to help, nor do I have a remote starter trigger.

I have now check engine light, can not get codes, but the fuel pump does shut off in 2 seconds after turning the key to on. so this makes me think the computer is doing something, because I thought the PCM is responsible for turning off the fuel pump if it gets no crank rotation signal.

I kinda think that may have something to do with my main problem even if all my plugs are fouled. I just don't know what in the world is causing it to do that, and I am not the best with electrical stuff.


by the way Racer X do you have any Idea's to bring if you come?

 

[Racer X]

I'd need to see the symptoms first hand. I have a couple of ideas, but we'll see when I get there.

Do you have a code reader, or do you need me to bring one?

 

[Devon]

I have a cheepy I just picked up from Auto zone.

I think it is an Actron? brand. it has a read light and a speaker that can make sound or the sound can be turned off. pluss it has a pocket book in 5 languages telling the codes and stuff like that.

 

[Devon]

as it turns out my spark plug gap was too big.

I remember now I purchased Denso Iridium spark plugs and they were a heat range hotter than stock. maybe two?

 

[Racer X]

How big was the gap?

I'll be there around 10:30ish. I have to drive my SHO, so it might be a bit longer with me nursing it around on a bad 3rd gear.

 

[SinisterSHO]

thought you were breaking out the ninja..?

anyways, I've had CCRM issues in the past and was always able to smack it with a screw driver to at least get home

 

[Racer X]

I am.

Devon got it running, it was a combination of bad wires, and a gap that was too large. He's good to go.