How can you tell if a timing belt tensioner is bad? My timing belt had some play in it in between the cams. Normal? about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play. I was thinking that my timing belt may have jumped and unfortunatley I moved the crank after I took the belt off so I couldnt see what my timing was at my belt looks fine no teeth are missing and its not chewed up. Also what is the compression supposed to be on the 3.2L and what could make it run like shit I have to keep on the gas at like half throttle otherwise it dies and it has no power. Someone said that the fuel injectors tick when they go bad???
How to tell
- Thread starter 93SHO24V
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SHO_ROLLER_2
Well-Known Member
From looking at your sig, I wouldn't think the 60K tune-ups are up to date. Being a $260 car and all.
If they aren't, I'd start there. By doing the front 60K you can make sure the timing is right at least. Then, do the top 60K. Get rid of the chance it being the plug, wires or coil pack.
After that, I'd think it'd be easier to trouble shoot.
Have you run the codes yet?
If they aren't, I'd start there. By doing the front 60K you can make sure the timing is right at least. Then, do the top 60K. Get rid of the chance it being the plug, wires or coil pack.
After that, I'd think it'd be easier to trouble shoot.
Have you run the codes yet?
SHO_ROLLER_2
Well-Known Member
Also, try the "search" feature.
In 2 minutes I now know that the compression should fall between 171-199psi.
There shouldn't be more than a 10% difference between pistons either.
In 2 minutes I now know that the compression should fall between 171-199psi.
There shouldn't be more than a 10% difference between pistons either.
Last edited:
Okay so far just to get this out of the way all of this has been done in the past 10,000 miles. Timing belt, rear main seal, front main seal, water pump, 02 sensors front and rear, VSS, Intake manifolod gaskets, spark plugs, wires. What do you mean that my 60k doesnt seem right from my sig??? meaning the car has Odometer roll back?? It very well could as I have not ran any history checks on the car. My car started making chugging noises at like 6 grand or so and this was after a hard downshift into second. I know about the search function but it freezes my computer sometimes
sperold
Last to Know
I would buy a new timing belt tensioner from a place with a reasonable re-stocking fee and see if it is different than yours.
OR...
You could put something like a fish scale on yours right now and get a reading when you have dragged it over to where the belt runs. You could take that info to a good mechanic, or go on the net, or phone the company that makes them and see what reading they build-to.
That is how I would test the timing belt tensioner.
As for the compression testing.... the important thing is that they are all pretty well even. The number can be deceiving as the gauge could be out of whack. In the past I had a motor that only registered 100 on the gauge, but it ran great and is probably still running somewhere. The gauges don't get stored and handled very well, and never get recalibrated.
OR...
You could put something like a fish scale on yours right now and get a reading when you have dragged it over to where the belt runs. You could take that info to a good mechanic, or go on the net, or phone the company that makes them and see what reading they build-to.
That is how I would test the timing belt tensioner.
As for the compression testing.... the important thing is that they are all pretty well even. The number can be deceiving as the gauge could be out of whack. In the past I had a motor that only registered 100 on the gauge, but it ran great and is probably still running somewhere. The gauges don't get stored and handled very well, and never get recalibrated.
lowc
aka vapah lock
i see a new trany or spun bearing in the future if u do some more of those
SHO_ROLLER_2
Well-Known Member
Ok, hold on!
What I meant was, you didn't mention that you did the tune-ups, and if the car was only $260, chances were the previous owner didn't do them.
As for a spun bearing, you would know it. Low oil pressure light and a knock.
Also, what do you mean "chugging"? Are you at WOT when it does it?
I'd do what sperold said.
What I meant was, you didn't mention that you did the tune-ups, and if the car was only $260, chances were the previous owner didn't do them.
As for a spun bearing, you would know it. Low oil pressure light and a knock.
Also, what do you mean "chugging"? Are you at WOT when it does it?
I'd do what sperold said.
Winterhawk
1993 SHO ATX
Did you say you pulled the codes?
Its not at WOT but you have to keep your foot on the gas pedal in order for the car to stay running and what I mean by chugging is like running but its almost like its not getting enough gas or too much gas. I have not pulled codes because I tore it apart.
SHO_ROLLER_2
Well-Known Member
Alright, honestly, at this point I would make sure the timing is correct and put it all back together.
If the CPS, timing belt, WP cam sensors, and all that is done right, there is no need to have the front of the motor apart.
The "chugging" could be bad timing.
Get her running again and see what ya got.
If the CPS, timing belt, WP cam sensors, and all that is done right, there is no need to have the front of the motor apart.
The "chugging" could be bad timing.
Get her running again and see what ya got.
lowc
aka vapah lock
no iwas refering to the 6k down shift not really a good thing for motor or trany
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