How to replace a CV?

[drdave]

I just noticed that the boot on the passenger side CV is torn. No noise yet, should I just try a quick boot? If not, can you just replace the joint, or do you have to do the whole shaft?

I also need part identification and advice. On the driver’s side, I do have a noise, but the boots are in good shape. Right off of the tranny there is a joint. Is that called an inner CV? I have to replace that, as it is the source of the noise. What is the procedure for replacing that?

 

[sdpatt]

Hey drdave, I have a spare Quick Boot for emergencies that I can sell to you. Or, just go to Pep Boys or oher store that carries them and look up the part number in the cross reference guide that has to be close by. They are about $15 with the CV joint grease included.

The Quick Boot is only a temporary fix. Rather than replace the CV joint boot, it is actually easier to replace the entire halfshaft with rebuilt CV joints and the boots already installed. Check on prices at your local stores.

 

[rangerj]

Dr. Dave,

When a CV joint gets moisture and/or any dirt in it, its remaining useful life is very, very, short. How long has the tear in the CV joint boot been there? (rhetorical ?)

You can replace just the boot and fresh grease, but I doubt the joint will last much longer.

We used to be able to get just the outer, or inner, CV joint. But this is like rebuilding calipers. By the time you buy all the pieces you can buy the whole shaft for about the same money, or less.

I also agree with SDPATT on the use of the "quick boot". These are nothing but an emergency TEMPORARY fix for a torn boot.

Thus in conclusion, the solution to your problem is; you get the shaft doc! Somehow that does not sound right. Have a nice day doc. rangerj

 

[shojuan]

The easiest and most popular repair method is to just get a generic rebuilt halfshaft from a local autoparts store. The best repair method (I seem to be the only person that advocates this) is to get a new outer joint and boot kit from Raxles http://www.raxles.com and rebuild the shaft yourself using a quality synthetic grease like redline CV-2. Or you can ship your shaft off to Marty at Raxles and he will rebuild it using a new outer joint, synthetic amsoil grease, and a new inner joint if necessary (it usually isn't) and give you a lifetime warranty. The local auto parts store will likely give a lifetime warranty too, but you will probably be exercising that warranty at some point. With the Raxles axle you probably won't.

Also, quickboots are bad news. Do it right and do it once. Do it wrong and do it twice.

Rick

 

[Ian]

Didn't say what year car is. Have an 89 and had a hard time to get right half shafts. Ended up putting 90-93 half shafts in (with abs rings on them). I've got an 89. From what I know and read rebuilt half shafts are the easiest and only way to go. They have a guarantee but mostly you know there are no foreign objects in them, only bearings and grease. Not too hard to change, abt 1 1/2-2 hours each side. You need to borrow or buy a 30mm deep socket (can "borrow" from Canadian tire in Canada or from what I've read auto zone in the U.S.), Long pry bar and couple of wrenches and sockets. Not a bad job. I taught my kids a thing or two for an old man.hahaha.Good luck

 

[drdave]

I'll do the half shafts. It looks like $59.00 for the right and $99.00 for the left, which doesn't seem too bad.

Any tips, tricks or shortcuts anyone would like to offer? I'll get it done, just looking to save some time. I only get very limited time to work on my cars, with the house full of screamers.

BTW, I'm working on my 90. Haven't touched the 93 in a few months now.

 

[Ian]

I found it easier with one other person. Hardest part was getting the axle nut off. Used a power bar 1/2 drive with socket and put a 4' piece of pipe on it, then stood and jumped on it. Used the same pipe between subframe (behind axle to rear of car) and the lower control arm. When I had my lower control arm bolt out (18&19mm?) used my 110 lb. son to stand on the bar and lower control arm popped out. Take your time, not too bad of a job. Hardest part was lining up lower ball joint stud to get it to go into bottom of strut. I'm sure you know what its like to explain to your 13 yr old son to be careful, dad wants all his fingers left, when he has the finesse of a bull in a china shop. Good luck, nice way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Father and son bonding time?

 

[rangerj]

DRDAVE,

I use a small bottle jack to push down on the lower control arm when separating the ball joint from the strut. I put the base of the jack against the control arm, and the top of the jack against the "frame" of the car.

Pump up the jack enough to separate the ball joint stud from the strut/steering knuckle.

Push in on the axle while pulling out on the strut, in order to remove the axle from the strut.

The service manual recommends that the axle nut be replaced, and that the ball joint nut and bolt be replaced when you do this.

If your wheel bearings have not been replaced in 50K+ miles, you may want to get them (bearins) replaced as well.

You may want to read the discussion about the torque of the axle nut, if you have not already done so. Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[rangerj]

DRDAVE,

Here are some added thoughts regarding axles.
You can replace just the outer or inner CV joint. Most parts store do not have just the joints.

Thanks to SHOJUAN, we have a source of the joints, that is Raxles.

To remove the outer joint, called a Rzepka joint, remove the boot and tap on the outer edge of the joint with a hammer. You can replace an OUTER boot, or the whole joint, without removing the axle completely.

Use a block of wood to protect the joint. A few sharp raps will usually pop the joint off of the axle.

Replace the boot on the axle, and clamp the boot onto the axle. Then put about 1/3 of the grease in the joint, and the rest in the boot. Replace the cir-clip on the axle. This is a spring metal circular clip that helps hold the joint in place.
(Not every axle will have these)

Pop the joint onto the axle, and clamp the boot onto the joint. The clamps require a "special tool" to crimp them tight. The tool is available at parts stores.

The outer joint is a ball and cage type joint, and can be cleaned without taking it apart. Use a spray can of solvent, such as Gumout or Brakeclean, to clean out the old grease. Let it dry completely, or blow it dry with compressed air. Then reassemble it as described above.

The joint can be disasembled, but the cage needs to be marked so that it is put back in correctly, that is in the same relative possition it was in before removal.

The inner joint has tabs that have to be bent, in order to release the joint from the "Can" or housing. Again it must go back in in the same relative position that it came out of.

It does not make a lot of sence to go through all this for a set of joints with 100k+ on them. Replaceing the axle is a better choice.

If you had a relatively new axle, and the boot was cut by a piece of road junk, then cleaning the joint and replacing the boot would be a good solution. This would be true as long as you do not go too long with a damaged boot.

As the axle spins, the damaged boot allows the grease to be thrown around the inside of the fender (centrifical force). This is the symptom of a torn, split, or cut boot.

The boots are shaped like bellows. The lower part, or the "fold", of the bellows cracks with age and the constant flexing it does. The boots should be checked at every oil change.

The inner boots have a small vent hole in them, because the inner joint flexes in and out. A loss of some of the grease through the vent hole is normal.

SHOJUAN is absolutely correct. You can replace an outer joint, or an inner joint, and not have to replace the whole axle. But, you have to consider the age and milage of the car. If you can replace the whole axle for a few dollars more, what make the most sense?

While you have the axles out it would make sense to replace the seals where the axle goes into the transaxle.

It is not a good idea to have both axles out of the transaxle at the same time. Leave one axle in, pull the other axle, and replace it. Then do the remaining axle.

This is also a good time to check the ball joins, lower control arm bushings, and tie rod ends!

Lastly Doc, count your fingers when your done with this job. This is one of those jobs that can bite ya, so be careful. rangerj